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謝婉婷 19013萬字 47105人讀過 連載
A：序 1 A：序 2A：序 3A：序 4A：序 5A：序 6A：序 7A：序 8 A：序 9早在寒假EBC徒步時(shí)就相約暑假K2徒步，再見面時(shí)已是六月底的喀布爾餐廳。A：序10這是你神圣的土地，保佑我們一路平安吧！B 前往Gilgit陪同我們前往Gilgit的兄弟。B 前往GilgitThe Road HUNTERB 前往Gilgit塞車隨拍B 前往Gilgit塞車隨拍--續(xù)B 前往Gilgit我們的隊(duì)長B 前往Gilgit我們的隊(duì)長（續(xù)）。B 前往Gilgit路上遇到的父子B 前往Gilgit用手機(jī)拍照的小伙B 前往Gilgit孩子們的笑臉B 前往Gilgit車頂上的孩子們，注意安全歐。B 前往Gilgit車?yán)?車外都是乘客B 前往Gilgit行李架上也是乘客，要小心嘍。B 前往Gilgit沿途的路，兩側(cè)是高高的雪墻。B 前往Gilgit兩側(cè)的雪墻在不斷地消融。B 前往Gilgit沿途的風(fēng)光B 前往Gilgit車窗外的景色B 前往Gilgit匆匆的上午茶B 前往Gilgit海拔漸漸升高B 前往Gilgit路人B 前往Gilg
最新章節(jié)： 第521章 雪佛蘭華晨宇 （ 2024-12-19 19:30:49）
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林常韋一段 快樂的驢行不至于在日后的歲月中變得支離破碎，為了與更多走過和未走過這條線的LZ分享旅途中的驚艷震撼，快樂痛苦，親情友誼。。。游記因此變得十分必要。 我喜歡陌生的感覺，陌生能產(chǎn)生好奇，好奇有無限魔力，這個(gè)魔力吸引我一次次離家出走。。。 檢索： 第一頁 前言，路上點(diǎn)滴 第四頁 麗江篇 第十頁 隊(duì)伍于瀘沽湖畔集結(jié)完畢 第十七 穿越正式開始 三十四 風(fēng)景漸入佳境 六十四 約會(huì)雪山 七十四 穿越結(jié)束 七十六 全劇終 群里很少有人說話，除了偶爾能碰到領(lǐng)隊(duì)，其他要去的幾個(gè)人一個(gè)比一個(gè)潛的深、隱的絕，連個(gè)溝通的機(jī)會(huì)都不給，我想他們是一群大隱者 ~！ 曾被今朝有酒醉的帖子毒倒，夏天又錯(cuò)過兩個(gè)走這條線的穿越隊(duì)伍，這次無論什么情況我是一定要去的，10月21日下午我登上了開往成都的列車，開始了一場(chǎng)非同尋常的驢行~~ 金秋瀘沽湖-亞丁穿越路線圖：家鄉(xiāng)--成都--攀枝花--麗江--瀘沽湖--亞丁--稻城--理塘--新都橋--康定--瀘定--雅安--成都--家鄉(xiāng) 黃金周已過，這個(gè)季節(jié)出門車上的旅客不多，還沒到西安我便有了自己的“臥鋪”，一個(gè)人可以坐仨位。天空漸漸變得昏暗，半夢(mèng)半醒間被剛上車的幾個(gè)人吵醒，兩男兩女中年人，有說有笑風(fēng)趣幽默，他們坐在我對(duì)面和過道另側(cè)的座位上。不知什么時(shí)候我便成了他們中的一員，于是我的“臥鋪”和對(duì)面的三人位便成了那夜我們輪換睡覺的地方，困了的睡覺，醒著的聊天，不覺孤單，不覺無聊。。。 其中的兩位姐姐，容顏雖不年輕，笑容卻很單純 清晨，列車駛過廣元，幾年前曾和朋友自駕九寨溝，第一次踏上四川的土地，也是個(gè)清晨路過廣元，那是個(gè)小雨迷離的清晨，秦嶺南麓雨量充沛，云霧飄渺于山中，空氣中透著潮濕，我很喜歡那種濕潤的感覺。透過車窗尋找舊日足跡，山還是那樣的山，而天空卻升起一輪驕陽~~ 過了江油，過了綿陽，離成都越來越近了，不知哪個(gè)站上來一位衣著頗顯些職業(yè)的四川mm坐在我們旁邊的位置，大姐和她聊起了化妝品，化妝品牌，我如聽天書，以為她是化妝品推銷員，起碼是做和化妝品有關(guān)的職業(yè)。很快到了終點(diǎn)站成都，我背上大包跨上小包準(zhǔn)備下車，MM走在我身后，踏上月臺(tái)的那一刻聽到身后有異樣的聲響，回頭看到她的行李箱卡在車門處，于是我們有了結(jié)識(shí)的理由。她叫芮瑩，但不姓芮，美術(shù)專業(yè)的，去西寧導(dǎo)師的工作室，她的外表，著裝，沒一點(diǎn)藝術(shù)生的叛逆，卻恰恰相悖。在我的印象中搞藝術(shù)的男的不是光頭就是長發(fā)，衣著另類，不食人間煙火，從外形上就要搞得與眾不同，彰顯他們獨(dú)具一格的個(gè)性，女的也一略同 我們在站外廣場(chǎng)拍了照片，留了QQ相互道別，她買票去西寧，我去南站買票去攀枝花~~~芮瑩 ME 超越，現(xiàn)居河南義馬，祖國秀美的山川讓我魂?duì)繅?mèng)繞，于是喜歡背上行囊找尋陌生中的童話世界~~。在之后的8天穿越中，在8天的烈日暴曬下，用領(lǐng)隊(duì)一句話形容我：摘了帽子，脫了沖鋒衣，和當(dāng)?shù)?原住民已無區(qū)分坐上公交穿城而過，成都給我的感覺很干凈，高樓鱗次櫛比，很繁華的大都市 曾經(jīng)，多少人青澀的夢(mèng)留在那片校園中，彼此不分貴賤，沒有功利每每回首往事，可能獨(dú)屬那段時(shí)光最能勾人心神，不堪回首也好，刻骨銘心也罷~~。。如今，我已老去。。。腳印留下，故事陪伴一生 網(wǎng)上查的有成都南到攀枝花的始發(fā)車，買票時(shí)售票小姐告訴我說現(xiàn)在沒有，那是節(jié)假日臨時(shí)加開的，郁悶！！可能我在網(wǎng)上查詢的方法有問，真暈，只好買了江油開往攀枝花的車票，離開車還有兩三個(gè)小時(shí)，出來在站外路邊店隨便吃點(diǎn)東西順便把手機(jī)充下電，到麗江還有兩天的時(shí)間，如果手機(jī)要是沒電了我豈不成了瞎子聾子，現(xiàn)代的通訊工具實(shí)在是太重要了上了車，還好，沒我想像的糟糕，人同樣不是很多，很順利找個(gè)位置坐下來，想想黃山歸來那次，在火車上可把我們幾頭驢整慘了，幾個(gè)人舉著大包在人滿為患的車廂中穿越，那情景很雷人！和我坐一起的是位在攀枝花長大的大哥，人很熱情，列車上人與人之間交流變得比較容易，可能是因為我們彼此陌生，沒誰去關(guān)注你的過去、現(xiàn)在和未來。。。。夕陽漸漸消失在地平線，又一個(gè)暮色來臨，大哥扒在桌上似乎已經(jīng)睡去，我卻感嘆車輪下這條沉重的鐵路。上世紀(jì)六七十年代，建國初年，國力薄弱，技術(shù)落后，為了國防、經(jīng)濟(jì)等建設(shè)需要，三線人豪情萬丈念著毛主席語錄，從祖國的四面八方來到這大西南的崇山峻嶺，在大山深處，修鐵路建工廠，他們用人海戰(zhàn)術(shù)，用青春歲月，用血與汗鑄造了一條條鐵路，一座座工廠，用驚天地泣鬼神來形容他們的精神與壯舉不覺絲毫夸張 列車駛進(jìn)樂山車站，下車的人很多，過道對(duì)面只剩一個(gè)小姑娘了，于是我又一次擁有了“臥鋪”的機(jī)會(huì)。小姑娘網(wǎng)名：洛若兮，據(jù)她講取自《洛神賦》里的字，名字很別致很高古，聽她說話卻相當(dāng)單純，每說一句話最后都要抿嘴笑一下，時(shí)而四川話，時(shí)而四川普通話，很搞笑，單純可愛屬于她這個(gè)季節(jié)。 當(dāng)聊起她的家庭，爸爸媽媽，聽她的身世卻有些凄楚，最疼愛她的奶奶也已離他而去，似乎這個(gè)世界上再?zèng)]有更關(guān)心她的人了，祝愿她能生活的很好 洛若兮 天蒙蒙亮，攀枝花到了。大哥、我、洛若兮我們一同下了火車，車站外就有發(fā)麗江的大巴，我問了票價(jià)，要80元人民幣，和我在網(wǎng)上查的不一致，我查的是客運(yùn)中心去麗江的大巴有45元的，于是決定和大哥他倆一起坐公交去客運(yùn)中心，中途洛若兮告別下了車，大哥一直把我送到到客運(yùn)中心，他原本不在這下車，再此感謝了 。到售票廳買票，結(jié)果也是80，網(wǎng)絡(luò)再次欺騙了我開往麗江的大巴一直就我們幾個(gè)乘客，像專車，我得以在后面拿著相機(jī)左拍拍右拍拍攀枝花四季氣候溫和，比我想象中的重工業(yè)城市清潔，這座鋼城沿江而建，在狹長的山谷中綿延數(shù)公里 一橋飛架南北，一江穿橋而過，她們可曾知道還有一顆滿懷激情的心在她們身邊悄悄經(jīng)過中午吃飯，拍下我們乘坐的大巴 忽然發(fā)現(xiàn)，屋檐下一怒放的生命在斑駁的光影中傲然倔強(qiáng)、嬌艷嫵媚，于是拍下了行程中第一張還算滿意的照片 車子繼續(xù)前行，建筑和景觀漸漸有了變化，山上的村落有點(diǎn)像彝族村寨，星星點(diǎn)點(diǎn)原以為只有在荒漠中成片生長的仙人掌在這個(gè)地方卻爬滿山頭山上這樣的樹木也很特別 還有那記憶深刻，我卻沒拍下來的芭蕉葉，鳳尾竹。記得小時(shí)候同學(xué)之間流行互相贈(zèng)送日記本，它的最大特點(diǎn)是中間有美術(shù)或攝影插圖，有祖國的名勝古跡，如：北京的長城，上海的外灘，南京的長江大橋，蘇州的園林，安徽的黃山。。。也有少數(shù)民族的風(fēng)情，如，蒙古的賽馬，天山的羊群，藏族的舞蹈，傣族的潑水節(jié)。。。西南少數(shù)民族的歌舞、繪畫作品多以鳳尾竹，芭蕉葉做背景，那些長在內(nèi)心的童年記憶如癡如夢(mèng)，神秘而遙不可及，如今竟不經(jīng)意間呈現(xiàn)在面前，而我卻忘記了按下快門逆光下金沙江宛如一條巨龍奔騰在峽谷之間 彝族村舍散落在牧歌般的田園中，安詳，靜謐，勤勞，自足 山如畫卷，氣勢(shì)恢宏，壯美之至溢于言表，自然的杰作往往給人意想不到的震撼 峰回路轉(zhuǎn)，給我的第一感覺就是陶淵明筆下的桃花源驚現(xiàn)于眼前：“復(fù)行數(shù)十步，豁然開朗。土地平曠，屋舍儼然，有良口美池桑竹之屬。阡陌交通，雞犬相聞。其中往來種作，男女衣著，悉如外人。黃發(fā)垂髫并恰然自樂。 ”“先世避秦時(shí)亂，率妻子邑人來此絕境，不復(fù)出焉，遂與外人間。問今是何世，乃不知有漢，無論魏晉?！?[]
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曾堯心[ra]https//dns9.stsky.com/gm/22346/14.wma[/ra]心若倦了，淚也干了，那份情難舍難了，那么就去西藏吧，就去納木措吧。。。去海邊旅游，可以令人心情舒暢，在沙灘上，一邊看著迷人的風(fēng)景，一邊依靠著心愛的人那是一種莫大的幸福，不需要思考啵簿駁南硎薌純?去山區(qū)旅游，可以令人心胸開闊，在登頂?shù)哪且祸牵?俯瞰走過的那些艱辛的路那是一種莫大的成就感和滿足感另一方面，一邊是山區(qū)貧窮的小孩們，他們看到糖果時(shí)的那種開心的表情一邊是城里的孩子們，為了追求名牌與父母撒嬌時(shí)候的表情這種對(duì)比實(shí)在是諷刺，看著他們，我覺得我們應(yīng)該滿足有些孩子吃不飽穿不暖，可是我們?yōu)槭裁催€要要求什么名牌那是一種莫大的悲哀，需要思考的東西太多，需要自己細(xì)細(xì)體會(huì)去藏區(qū)旅游，也許不應(yīng)該叫做旅游，而應(yīng)該是體驗(yàn)生活，體驗(yàn)他們艱苦的生活，體驗(yàn)他們的信念，體驗(yàn)他們的那種堅(jiān)持在西藏人99%信佛，每個(gè)家庭會(huì)把自己家最好的東西都獻(xiàn)給佛祖，因?yàn)?佛祖會(huì)保佑他們一家平安幸福當(dāng)你在路上遇見磕等身長頭的人，希望你可以把自己的速度放慢，盡自己的能力給他們一些他們需要的比如水，比如食物，比如一些零錢，如果都沒有，他們只需要你一個(gè)微笑就好了當(dāng)你在路上遇見騎自行車的驢友，希望你可以把自己的速度放慢，盡可能的大聲對(duì)他們說加油??！這對(duì)他們來說是莫大的鼓勵(lì)和支持當(dāng)你在路上遇見向你敬禮的小孩子們，希望你可以把自己的速度放慢，盡自己的能力給他們一些他們需要的比如糖果，比如零食，比如鉛筆，比如本子，如果都沒有，他們只需要你一個(gè)微笑就好了在藏區(qū)，你會(huì)遇見很多你平時(shí)碰不到的人無論是磕等身長頭的人還是騎自行車的驢友還是小孩子，你們都擁有一顆感恩的心 即使語言不同，微笑可以代表一切那是一種莫大的感動(dòng)，永遠(yuǎn)留在心中車子在山間穿梭，時(shí)不時(shí)地會(huì)看到磕長頭的人，三步一叩首，只為心中的天堂--拉薩，朝拜布達(dá)拉宮以前只在網(wǎng)上看到有人說過，但是當(dāng)初不理解，為什么他們要這樣這次在那里也遇見了很多，通過與他們的閑聊，我明白了那是一種信仰，一種堅(jiān)持，一種虔誠，不需要任何理由看到他們黝黑的皮膚，額頭和鼻子上發(fā)亮的繭子甚至是磨破了的血漬，疲憊的身軀，我為他們感到心疼但是他們用堅(jiān)定的眼神告訴我，他們很滿足，他們靠自己的腳一步一步走向心中的天堂，他們心滿意足每天重復(fù)著三步一叩首，日曬雨淋，他們沒有一句怨言，臉上的微笑讓我們感動(dòng) 虔誠的朝拜 他們有堅(jiān)定的信仰，支撐著他們一步一步走到西藏，走到布達(dá)拉宮門前而我來到西藏，只因自己心中的一個(gè)夢(mèng)，無關(guān)信仰，無關(guān)愛情我不是為了拉薩而去西藏，而是想要體驗(yàn)?zāi)欠N過程從成都出發(fā)，翻越無數(shù)雪山，從北線再轉(zhuǎn)到南線歷時(shí)15天，這段過程讓我難忘有些驢友說：身體下地獄，心靈上天堂我也有類似的感受，但是對(duì)于住慣了喧囂的都市之后輾轉(zhuǎn)到這里也不是一件壞事至少可以體會(huì)不同的人生，讓自己更好地珍惜自己所擁有的因?yàn)檫@對(duì)于有些人來說是奢侈的。。。 布宮前的公園里總有那些朝拜者的身影，一磕就是一下午靜靜的看著他們，也許拉薩真的是一個(gè)適合發(fā)呆的地方因?yàn)榭倳?huì)有那么一些事情感動(dòng)著你 這個(gè)威嚴(yán)的高高在上的地方曾經(jīng)牽動(dòng)著很多人的心我相信這個(gè)地方以后會(huì)牽動(dòng)更多人的心他是中國的天堂，也是全世界的天堂只要心中有佛，這里沒有國度的限制 神圣的地方，許下心愿 去年的川西行有了太多的感慨，我和多多默默下定決心，今年一定要走川藏線半年的時(shí)間，我們決定了去的時(shí)間，路線，司機(jī)，基本上和多多的想法沒有很大的分歧畢竟我們一同走過了青海，甘南，黔東南，川西，所以很有默契5月份雖然不是走川藏最好的時(shí)間，但是鑒于我們的假期比較長，想想還是5月中旬左右比較合適7/8月雨季比較危險(xiǎn)，經(jīng)常會(huì)發(fā)生泥石流，山體坍塌的事故，為了父母為了家人，我們也要以安全為主路線我們選擇了川藏北線轉(zhuǎn)南線，從成都到拉薩基本上9天可以走完司機(jī)還是選擇了去年的卡特，當(dāng)初約定好了的，嗬嗬，這一路上有他我們就不會(huì)孤單了我們的路線黑色粗體部分 D1：成都(514)—雅安(680)—二郎山(2174)—瀘定(1320)—康定(2481)—折多山(4298)--新都橋(3340) 宿新都橋D2：新都橋(3340)—八美(3452)--道孚(2987)—爐霍(3186) 宿爐霍D3：爐霍(3186)—羅鍋梁子(3962)—無名山(4000)--甘孜(3387)—瑪尼干戈(3383)--新路海(4027)—雀兒山(5050)—德格(3284) 宿德格D4：德格印經(jīng)院 宿德格 D5：德格(3284)--金沙江(3045)—矮拉山(4245)--江達(dá)(3518)—雪集拉(4240)—道班(3936)—宋拉爽山(4431)--昌都(3239) 強(qiáng)巴林寺看辯經(jīng) 宿昌都D6：317-à318 昌都(3239)-- 年拉山(3465)—浪拉山(4572)--邦達(dá)機(jī)場(chǎng)(4395)-- 邦達(dá)(4131)—業(yè)拉山(4618)—怒江橋((2769)—八宿(3251)—安久拉(4409)—然烏(3867) 宿然烏湖D7：然烏(3867)--米堆冰川—松宗(3042)—波密(2748) 宿波密D8：波密(2748)—通麥(2087)—魯朗(3333)—色季拉(4700)—八一(3026) 宿八一D9：八一(3026)—工布江達(dá)(3416)—松多(4234)—米拉山(5030)—墨竹工卡(3830)—拉薩(3650) 宿拉薩Mark由于德格到金沙江修路，所以實(shí)施車輛管制，早上7點(diǎn)之前晚上10點(diǎn)之后車輛可以通行,但是晚上有很多大貨車比較危險(xiǎn)，所以建議早上早點(diǎn)趕路 介紹好了路線就來介紹一下這次同行的成員吧多多--我的同事，我和他去過很多地方，很文靜的一個(gè)女孩子，看上去只有上高中，哈哈（這是古典病毒給他的評(píng)價(jià)）古典病毒--一個(gè)很搞怪的大男孩，很幽默，喜歡登山 和我們來川藏之前的一個(gè)星期剛登了四姑娘山的大峰二峰和三峰，勇氣和體力都很強(qiáng)哦 一路上很照顧我們，感謝他，和他成為朋友很開心，一路上他帶給我們很多的快樂，雖然在車上他老是和我逗嘴 其實(shí)我們和古典病毒之前并不認(rèn)識(shí)，是通過卡特我們才會(huì)認(rèn)識(shí)的，所以我們也要感謝卡特卡特--藏族司機(jī)，典型的西部牛仔，去年我和多多走川西也是包他的車，車技很好，比較穩(wěn)，我們都很喜歡他 一路上跟我們介紹藏族的歷史，風(fēng)俗，由于他以前在四姑娘山做登山向導(dǎo)，所以也會(huì)跟我講一些關(guān)于雪山的事情 卡特乍一看上去很酷，但其實(shí)內(nèi)心很感性，他帶給我們很多快樂，很多回憶，現(xiàn)在我們成了很好的朋友 祝福他，永遠(yuǎn)快樂幸福，永遠(yuǎn)保持一顆年輕的心我--卡卡，活潑開朗，比較喜歡笑，沒心沒肺的笑，比較男孩子氣，病毒老說我這輩子找不到男人了，因?yàn)槲冶容^兇，哈哈 不過我還是很感謝一路上兩位男士的照顧，特別是當(dāng)我有些高反的時(shí)候主動(dòng)幫我背包，提醒我多穿衣服 很感動(dòng)呀我們四個(gè)人在這段旅途中發(fā)生了很多好玩的事情，在下面我會(huì)慢慢道來，不要急哦卡特總說我們的運(yùn)氣好，一路上基本天氣都很好最幸運(yùn)的是看到了中國最美麗的山峰--南迦巴瓦 7座山峰矗立在那兒，我們被震撼了 我好想靠近她，離她更近一些但是她給了我美麗的轉(zhuǎn)身她是美麗的神圣的而不可侵犯的 我只能將對(duì)她的仰慕藏在心里，靜靜地在遠(yuǎn)處看著她這樣我就已經(jīng)很滿足了還有一個(gè)很大的收獲就是看到了極美麗的納木措落日 那邊的云變化無常，一會(huì)淡薄浮云 ，絲絲相連暮色宜人，令人浮想聯(lián)翩變幻多姿的風(fēng)景怎么能錯(cuò)過呢大家開始長槍短炮的在那里侯著，生怕些錯(cuò)過什么雖然很冷，但是看到那么美的風(fēng)景，什么都值得到現(xiàn)在，看到納木措的照片，我都懷疑自己的眼睛那一夜，我們都深深的沉醉在那個(gè)讓我們?nèi)绨V如醉的美麗的地方那一刻，空氣凝結(jié)成冰，而我只能嘆息只能祈禱希望以后可以與自己的愛人再重回這個(gè)地方與他一起看潮起潮落，與他一起體驗(yàn)人生的酸甜苦辣 納木措--我會(huì)再來的 只是不知道那個(gè)時(shí)候，你還是否會(huì)像現(xiàn)在那樣安靜會(huì)不會(huì)被喧鬧的人群打擾，會(huì)不會(huì)被塑料垃圾污染那潔白的，晶瑩剔透的浮冰會(huì)不會(huì)消失 41# 關(guān)鍵精 嗬嗬，原來你也在上面混的呀你的意見很好噢，我會(huì)虛心接受的不過最近有點(diǎn)忙，來不及更新，不過我會(huì)努力的謝謝你啦，朋友前陣子比較忙，所以一直沒有更新帖子，從今天開始，爭(zhēng)取每天更新哦 第一天成都(514)—雅安(680)—二郎山(2174)—瀘定(1320)—康定(2481)—折多山(4298)--新都橋(3340) 宿新都橋天氣：多云轉(zhuǎn)陰由于去年走川西的時(shí)候已經(jīng)走過這一段路，所以途中基本沒有停下來，我們希望可以多點(diǎn)時(shí)間在更精彩的地方云層很厚，太陽時(shí)不時(shí)地露點(diǎn)小臉5月份櫻桃已經(jīng)熟了，卡特在雅安買了一大籮筐櫻桃，很好吃，和我們平時(shí)吃得不一樣，特別嫩，個(gè)頭也很小大家可以嘗試一下哦，在高原，適當(dāng)?shù)难a(bǔ)充維C還是很有必要的，不過我們后來都沒有吃完，因為實(shí)在太多了有點(diǎn)糊了，大家湊合著看吧，哈哈 從雅安到折多山的路上，天氣一直灰蒙蒙的，云層很厚，感覺像是要下雨在折多山上，風(fēng)很大，經(jīng)幡在狂風(fēng)中呼嘯唯有我們的心依然那樣堅(jiān)定 當(dāng)我們在折多山的埡口時(shí)，一縷陽光照在山頭，我撲捉到了那一刻是那么得令人興奮和愉快呀，但隨著而來的是輕微的頭痛一下子上海拔比較高的地方，還是不要太激動(dòng)了，因?yàn)榻?下來的行程由不得你的身體出現(xiàn)一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)不適哦在折多山的埡口，多多留下了他的虔誠和祝福從成都到新都橋的路況挺好，都是二級(jí)柏油路面可惜我們要急著趕路，所以這次沒有在新都橋留下什么，但是去年新都橋的深秋讓我們不能忘懷這也是在整條川藏線上比較輕松的一天，驢友們可以盡情享受，因?yàn)榻?下來就沒那么悠閑了從新都橋到八美，現(xiàn)在依舊執(zhí)行限時(shí)管制，早晨必須9點(diǎn)之前通過，要不然只有等待的份兒了八美到道孚的路況很不好，一路上都是石子路，塵土飛揚(yáng)的，我們的車還爆了胎，油箱也破了不過這也是一段很好玩的經(jīng)歷，在川藏路上沒有修車補(bǔ)胎的經(jīng)歷就不算走過川藏啦 卡特和病毒在充氣找到了問，卡特自己來補(bǔ)胎修好了車，大伙都很高興去道孚的路上很安靜，沒有城市的喧囂，沒有忙碌的人群有的只是陽光，一直陪伴著我們還有那些藏民的微笑。。。 卡特發(fā)現(xiàn)油箱有點(diǎn)漏油，應(yīng)該是路上的小石子顛破了油箱無奈，只能去滬霍修理車子了車子爆胎，車廂漏油，但是并沒有讓我們的心情低落多多在車上把爛掉的櫻桃都挑出來，很是細(xì)心哦瞧~~~~多賢惠的女子呀，哈哈哈哈過了八美，我們就往道孚前進(jìn)，從這里開始，對(duì)于我們就都是陌生的道孚以民居出名，的確，藏式房屋很有特點(diǎn)漸近道孚時(shí)，路旁民居的色彩也開始變化――白色的屋頂和外墻，配以棕色的木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)，其間更點(diǎn)綴了不少紅、藍(lán)圖案想象一下吧……不遠(yuǎn)處的巍峨雪山，遙遙注目，藍(lán)天青山的掩映下，藏居色彩斑躍在路旁、河邊或村寨出入口，你常常可以見到一堆堆刻著佛像或佛教經(jīng)文的石頭這就是“瑪尼堆”――那些凝固著的，被不斷累積不斷沉淀的祈愿道孚縣位于四川省西部，甘孜州東部，資源豐富，氣候溫和，素有“康北江南”之稱是由北路通往西藏的重要門戶，是甘孜州旅游環(huán)線東部“一個(gè)圈”和省旅游西環(huán)線的重要組成部分別看這些房子外觀色彩基調(diào)相似，其實(shí)內(nèi)部卻各有洞天。由于道孚地處青藏高原、鮮水河斷裂帶，日照長、風(fēng)沙多，晝夜溫差大，屬“四季無暑，一霜成冬”的典型高原氣候，于是聰明的道孚人便巧妙地利用本地建材精心打造居室，使其冬暖夏涼，尤為抗震。在建筑材料上，道孚民居以木材、石材、泥土為主要原料，依山傍水、坐西向東，起到吸熱采光，避風(fēng)沙雨雪侵襲、保溫安全舒適的作用。室內(nèi)裝飾也都用紅色等“火熱”的基調(diào)。外形多為四方形，二樓呈L形、凹形或回形，四壁多以片石砌墻或用泥土夯筑而成。它的內(nèi)層結(jié)構(gòu)是純木材，架“棒柯”或“棒勒”，間隔為各種用途的房間。房間上裝木望板，下鋪木地板，頂蓋用樺樹皮或硬雜木條墊底再鋪“阿嘎土”，日曬雨淋絕不漏水。屋架門窗外表的裸露部分，則多以油漆或自制有色土染過，既防腐防蛀，又美觀大方。令人嘆為觀止的是其內(nèi)部裝飾。房間四壁、房門和梁柱上一般都繪滿了精致典型的藏式壁畫，窗上分別雕刻著龍、鳳、仙鶴、麒麟等吉祥圖案。每間屋的大門上都鑲嵌醒目的兩個(gè)獅頭大銅環(huán)，凸顯了與之相融的漢文化的特點(diǎn)。置身其間，色彩斑斕中，身邊盡是龍飛鳳舞，鶴翔麟躍。繽紛中細(xì)端詳，真是藏民族藝術(shù)的天堂!那度母、花鳥、異獸、龍鳳、五彩祥云圖案精美逼真，栩栩如生，每幅畫都有美麗動(dòng)人的故事，不但讓人大飽眼福，更把人帶入仙境般的傳說中去，其樂無窮。一件件精致的裝飾品、各種藏式家具交相生輝，恍惚間仿佛跌入宮殿。而來到藏家最神圣的經(jīng)堂，滿屋的唐卡和七色小彩燈在四周閃爍，正面壁龕里一尊尊佛像旁，形形色色、競(jìng)相開放的酥油花，濃香彌漫，令人頓生肅穆之感。(此段摘自網(wǎng)絡(luò)) 道孚給我的感覺很好，不光是民居漂亮，那里的人也特別好，特別熱情雖然在語言上的溝通不是很順暢，但是可以感覺到他們的熱情和好客中午，我們?cè)谒?們家里吃了飯，和他們聊生活，聊孩子們的學(xué)習(xí)問調(diào)皮的孩子也不斷地作出搞怪的動(dòng)作，讓我們感受到了童真的樂趣最大的男孩子11歲了，最小的才3歲喜歡看他們的笑容也許那里的生活并不富裕，但是他們內(nèi)心的質(zhì)樸和純真是現(xiàn)在的孩子身上漸漸的消失的 55# 寧あ瀞 希望可以給你提供更多的資訊，幫助到你([]
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李秀慧.——序——. 不知道，你是不是也像現(xiàn)在的我一樣，每一次遠(yuǎn)行歸來，總會(huì)有那么幾天想要再一次離開現(xiàn)實(shí)，想要穿越時(shí)空回到那條剛剛走過的路上。今天，忙里偷閑，在這個(gè)安靜的午后，給自己一個(gè)足夠的空間，在畫面的變換中，懷念已經(jīng)屬于“昨天”的記憶。是的，仿佛所有的東西都還未曾“遠(yuǎn)離”，讓我還能在這里，在文字中，再一次用“心”去行走，去感受那段夢(mèng)境般、熟悉而親切的“元旦小鰲太穿越”—— 我在路上，原來，一切，都還在…… ——記 在這里，真心的感謝8264這個(gè)網(wǎng)絡(luò)平臺(tái)，讓我能夠在此相識(shí)了那些熱愛生活的朋友，并能與大家共同分享戶外生活的快樂！也要感謝“天石”公司在元旦期間寄來的我在“我行我在 天石戶外”游記攻略大賽上文章獲得的獎(jiǎng)品。在此，希望能有更多的朋友參與并支持8264戶外資料網(wǎng)！祝愿8264網(wǎng)站越辦越精彩！活動(dòng)越來越豐富！ 我，早已經(jīng)不再質(zhì)疑自己的選擇，因?yàn)?，每?dāng)我一次次回頭，看看那些曾經(jīng)走過的路，遇見的風(fēng)景，還有風(fēng)景里的人，我都會(huì)心存萬分的感激之情：感謝大自然賦予人類的神奇，感謝志同道合的朋友們的相惜，讓我能在心中留下記憶，并且，讓一切仍舊，仍舊一如“昨天”那么的美好。人生，誰人不過客？駐足一笑，擦肩而過——相信，如若有緣，我們終會(huì)——相見；人生，走在一起是緣分，一起再走是信賴——真誠的期待，期待能在路上，再一次與你——相遇…… ——記 我不知道別人怎樣理解“生活”，怎樣讓“生命”更有意義，可我知道，我這樣的“夢(mèng)想”與“生活”真的不需要所有人都理解。我想，生活中每個(gè)人都有著屬于自己的夢(mèng)想，只是，最大的區(qū)別莫過于你是否不停地努力著，努力著去把夢(mèng)想逐漸變成現(xiàn)實(shí)。相信，無論夢(mèng)有多高，無論夢(mèng)有多遠(yuǎn)，夢(mèng)在，就好！也許，美好的人生莫過如此吧——做自己喜歡的事，讓夢(mèng)想在生活中得以實(shí)踐…… ——記. 我總是喜歡在陌生的地方或是短暫的停駐，或是匆忙的一瞥，我知道，但凡那些曾經(jīng)留下我的身影或是映入我眼簾的地方，都會(huì)讓我在未來的某一天，再一次真誠的向時(shí)光討一份美好的記憶……——記 我一直喜歡“路上”的那個(gè)我。因?yàn)槊恳欢温?，每一?旅行，那些途中的收獲與感悟，無論是“得”還是“失”，都會(huì)讓我深深地感受到，那個(gè)時(shí)候的我，內(nèi)心是幸福而快樂的……——記 年年歲歲，歲歲年年，讓我們別“怠慢”了本該擁有的景致，.雖然“花”相似，“山”常在，但每一年的心境卻已然絕非相同……畫面中，自西向東望去，依次是飛機(jī)梁、西源、金字塔、大太白梁、拔仙臺(tái)等歷歷在目 喜歡，是動(dòng)力；興趣，是方向——不需要任何理由。我想，我是真的中了驢行的“毒”。 我喜歡這種生活，那些途中令人駐足止步，耳目一新的享受，以及獲得快樂的那一瞬間，那每一秒，不是任何人，任何錢物所能給予的，相信，只有自己！——記 曾經(jīng)，我不止一次地問自己，準(zhǔn)備好了嗎？因?yàn)槲蚁嘈?，?dāng)身心都做好了準(zhǔn)備，鰲太就是最美的天堂……2013年元旦，小鰲太穿越的路上因?yàn)?有了你們的相伴，我才有幸用雙腳去丈量，日歷一頁一頁的翻過，時(shí)光再也回不到從前，可我不會(huì)忘記，忘記那四天三夜共處的每一個(gè)快樂的瞬間——無兄弟不登山，在此，再一次感謝，感謝一路有你！感謝記憶里有你！——記 記得去年五月的鰲太穿越，于導(dǎo)航架前，來自不同起點(diǎn)的兩支隊(duì)伍在途中不早不晚的相遇，并且有緣面對(duì)面的站在同一個(gè)高度上相互問候，我想，一定是因為“山”在這里！雨中，彼此看不清對(duì)方的臉，自此分別后，腦海里卻留下了身在異鄉(xiāng)聽到的那一句最溫暖的祝?！?以山會(huì)友，我不知道這樣的“偶然”算不算是人生的一種修行……——贈(zèng)與此行隊(duì)長“長風(fēng)”：相識(shí)，真好！ “長風(fēng)”，一個(gè)細(xì)心嚴(yán)謹(jǐn)?shù)念I(lǐng)隊(duì)，是當(dāng)?shù)貞敉饩W(wǎng)站的元老級(jí)人物一路上香煙不斷的“長風(fēng)”，據(jù)說一手好書法2012年的元旦假期，他就曾經(jīng)一個(gè)人獨(dú)自走鰲山 . 在這里，格外道上一聲真摯的感謝，感謝隊(duì)長幫我購買了高山氣罐和各種食材，讓我品嘗到陜西的特色：麻食，手工面，胡辣湯、油茶（袋裝滴），小油條、小咸菜，臊子紅蘿卜絲炒豆腐（因?yàn)槁吠据^遠(yuǎn)，在家出發(fā)時(shí)，我只是準(zhǔn)備了幾天穿越途中的路餐，營地餐基本都是“長風(fēng)”隊(duì)長在寶雞當(dāng)?shù)貛兔?zhǔn)備的）……——記攝影不錯(cuò)的“長風(fēng)”這次帶著佳能5D2， 外加三角架，帖子里那張星空軌跡的相片就是出自他的手，一路上使用70-300f/4-5.6L IS 和 L 16-35f2.8L兩個(gè)鏡頭，也不嫌麻煩相片中的“長風(fēng)”很多都是在轉(zhuǎn)身回頭，后來我忍不住好奇的問他，他只說了句，擔(dān)心……應(yīng)該是因為等我的緣故吧，我的鏡頭里數(shù)他的身影最多（本人攝影一般，別嫌相片拍的不盡人意） 無兄弟不登山，但兄弟終歸是“過客”。無論是近在咫尺，還是遠(yuǎn)在天涯，那些所有的至純至簡(jiǎn)的歡聲笑語，終究要從荒煙蔓草的山間，從風(fēng)生水起的路上，回歸到喧鬧的城市，然后，然后在冰冷的鋼筋水泥間繼續(xù)做那個(gè)腳踏實(shí)地的，誠誠懇懇的“自我”——這就是“生活”，愿我們永遠(yuǎn)懷揣一份美好的信念，執(zhí)著而坦然，簡(jiǎn)單而快樂?！?贈(zèng)與“雷鋒”：學(xué)習(xí)雷鋒精神！高大、帥氣的“雷鋒”，走過四姑娘山三峰，登過瑪雅雪山，去年完成了玉珠峰一路上，幽默詼諧的“雷鋒”不斷地帶給我們很多快樂. 雖然相處的時(shí)間短暫，卻能感覺到這是一個(gè)很會(huì)生活的男人黃瓜和大白菜都成速凍的了，看來冬季登山真的不適宜帶著它們絕對(duì)的吃貨?。?！路餐居然帶著雞腿！羨慕嫉妒恨…… 這個(gè)男人絕對(duì)是個(gè)有故事的人，有機(jī)會(huì)一定要多“挖掘”…… 每個(gè)人來到這里，都曾經(jīng)累得要命，苦得要命，但這種滋味會(huì)隨著時(shí)光流逝漸漸的演變成下一次的“渴望”與“向往”。我想，那所有的千辛萬苦，和那一路結(jié)伴的驢友，以及共同走過的路，都終會(huì)在日后變成生命中那個(gè)難忘的良辰美景——元旦假期的四天三夜，就如同行走在天上人間，相信能留在回憶里的必將是那些難得的景致和景色里美好的心情——不管你是誰，都將會(huì)終身難忘！——贈(zèng)與“耕耘”：你的穩(wěn)重與低調(diào)讓我印象深刻一路上，喜歡靜靜的拍攝MV……“耕耘”的少言寡語，不知道是不是跟吐字如金的職業(yè)有關(guān)？..下山時(shí)，“雷鋒”說“耕耘”曾在夜晚對(duì)著MV演講自己的感受……我深信他是個(gè)有內(nèi)涵的男人. 記得“雷鋒”這樣跟我說，我和耕耘多年交情，鰲山基本上都是我們一起走的。很多時(shí)候他做的事情讓我吃驚，是個(gè)有想法的人，也是個(gè)很浪漫的人，去年正月十五上鰲山，我就是包一背就走了，“耕耘”不聲不響的帶上禮花，說咱們也過個(gè)元宵節(jié)…… 聽說“耕耘”國畫很好，還善于素描，心中很是期待能擁有一張…… 這樣每天在山里繞來轉(zhuǎn)去，懷著同一個(gè)的夢(mèng)想，走著重復(fù)的山路，發(fā)著同樣的呆……就算一言不發(fā)，感覺也很好！ 他曾和雷鋒一起登過瑪雅雪山 你是一個(gè)什么樣的人，竟然這樣一路有條不紊，讓一切“沉默”成“金”…… 有些事情，在還沒能夠來得及做的時(shí)候卻沒有爭(zhēng)取去做，我想，如若現(xiàn)在還不作為，也許就永遠(yuǎn)都做不成了。因為所有的東西都在隨著時(shí)間的漫延而改變，包括適宜的天時(shí)、地利、人和，包括自己一年年體能的改變，思維反應(yīng)的變化，甚至，更多的東西都在隨著時(shí)間慢慢的，悄悄的離我們遠(yuǎn)去，從此，不再適合我們，不再屬于我們?；钤诋?dāng)下，讓我們共同努力過好每一天，不要再讓自己放不下、想不開、看不透……——記. ..——出發(fā)——.... 很多人為了能在有限的生命中留下更精彩的痕跡，一直都在生活中尋找，并不斷地改變初衷，時(shí)至今日，甚至還依舊讓“遺憾”與“嘆息”徘徊在蹉跎歲月間。漸漸的，在一次次的無奈中，眼前的世界變得更大，更深，更遠(yuǎn)，更陌生……是的，生活中，為了夢(mèng)想，甚至為了一個(gè)別人眼中“不現(xiàn)實(shí)”的夢(mèng)想，甘愿暫時(shí)放下一切，并不是誰都能做得到的。我只想告訴你，我亦并非是什么胸懷大志的女子，我只是喜歡以“山為伴，水為侶——洗耳，清目”，讓自己能從不同的角度看“人生”，讓世界在心中更美！今天，當(dāng)你還在猶豫的時(shí)候，我，已經(jīng)在路上……——記.2012年12月29日.出發(fā)的那個(gè)清晨，天空中飄灑著的雪花兒和親朋一起 為我餞行經(jīng)中轉(zhuǎn)站換乘，折騰了近四十個(gè)小時(shí)，終于在2012年12月30日晚十一時(shí)半入住在寶雞 .——第一天——第一天路程隊(duì)長制定的很輕松：.23公里進(jìn)山——練驢坡——牛頭樹——2900松樹林——3100梁頭營地扎營.. 鰲太，我對(duì)它的“認(rèn)可”緣于去年五月的那一次未完成的穿越。在滿臉淚水與雨水交織的下撤途中，那雨霧中朦朧的景色風(fēng)一樣“穿過”記憶，留下它那淡淡的痕跡。從此，我便知道，無論是走近它，還是遙望它，它，終會(huì)在那里——等我……那天，當(dāng)我再一次身在其中，那曾經(jīng)所有的牽掛與想念，象極了“落葉歸根”般的感覺——從此，從此有了“著落”…….——記.. 2012年12月31日中午到達(dá)太白縣23公里，映入眼簾的是那些熟悉的志性建筑 與事先約好的寶雞驢友一起在鰲山登山口處整裝待發(fā)……眼前上升的這段路就是“練驢坡”，我們從起步開始計(jì)時(shí)，二十分鐘到達(dá)坡頂點(diǎn)處第一天，天空中一直是艷陽高照，萬里無云…… 記得曾經(jīng)有朋友對(duì)我說，你的圖片配上文字總會(huì)讓我看了很激動(dòng)，象你這樣的路，這樣的行走，估計(jì)我這輩子是沒有機(jī)會(huì)去嘗試了……其實(shí)，我想對(duì)她說，路——永遠(yuǎn)在腳下，看你走與不走，若真的要走，相信總會(huì)有一條適合你的路，適合你的走法…… ——記在這個(gè)被稱為鰲山“牛頭樹”的地方休息調(diào)整、適當(dāng)補(bǔ)給后繼續(xù)前行([]
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邱建宏《東方航空》雜志社找我約臨沂的組片，可巧我沒有到過臨沂，本想找到過臨沂的影友征幾張片以應(yīng)雜志社編輯之約，問了幾個(gè)影友也都沒拍過，想想臨沂離得這么近都沒去過，好像有點(diǎn)說不過去，就想著干脆利用周末跑一趟，于是，“成就”了這次魯地孤旅。之所以用《魯?shù)毓侣谩愤@個(gè)，是當(dāng)時(shí)我正在看村朗的《藏地孤旅》，這次又恰巧是獨(dú)行，好友說你這次可以寫篇《魯?shù)毓侣谩返?游記了，這個(gè)就這樣“誕生”了，有點(diǎn)黨的嫌疑哈。好在是游記，玩的是心情，也就不在意其他了哦。4月13日（周五）下午5：00，乘坐K1065次動(dòng)身去臨沂，這是一趟目前為數(shù)不多的綠皮車之一，我說買票時(shí)對(duì)票價(jià)有所詫異，3個(gè)多小時(shí)的車程票價(jià)居然只有19元，檢票到了月臺(tái)我才看清楚這趟車是漢口開往威海的綠皮車。按說這個(gè)季節(jié)乘坐綠皮車應(yīng)該還可以，沒想到氣溫的陡然回升讓這綠皮車的溫度也突然升溫，呆在車廂內(nèi)感覺有些燥熱，站站停的短途車每每都是超員的，感覺就更熱了，很久沒坐過綠皮車了，這次魯?shù)氐墓侣糜帧?品嘗”了一次綠皮車的滋味。雖然是綠皮車，但列車并沒晚點(diǎn)，晚上810，列車正點(diǎn)到達(dá)臨沂北站。出站后給預(yù)訂的118連鎖酒店欒經(jīng)理打電話詢問地點(diǎn)并兼與出租車司機(jī)砍價(jià)。臨沂北站離臨沂市區(qū)很遠(yuǎn)，有20多公里路程，火車站離那么遠(yuǎn)的城市還真不多，比清明節(jié)去的揚(yáng)州車站還要遠(yuǎn)很多，據(jù)說臨沂北站離城區(qū)比到臨沂機(jī)場(chǎng)還遠(yuǎn)，這讓人有點(diǎn)犯暈。正是因?yàn)槿绱?，在火車北?打車的問上我請(qǐng)教欒經(jīng)理，欒經(jīng)理告訴我，找送站的回程車，可以砍價(jià)到10元成交?？?下車后問了幾個(gè)出租車司機(jī)，都是要價(jià)30元，這事有點(diǎn)糾結(jié)，電話里欒經(jīng)理交代我，不行就再找車，一準(zhǔn)能找到。可站在黑兮兮的車站廣場(chǎng)上一輛一輛的找車也是個(gè)麻煩事，最后與一個(gè)司機(jī)砍價(jià)到20元，就這么著吧，總算沒吃虧。乘車到了酒店，因?yàn)橹巴ㄟ^同程網(wǎng)有預(yù)約，順利的辦了入住手續(xù)，賓館環(huán)境還不錯(cuò)，房間也很干凈，安頓下來趕緊洗澡更衣，之后拿出打印好的相關(guān)資料做功課，安排好第二天的行程后早早休息。第一天的行程我安排的是去蒙山景區(qū)和參觀平邑天宇自然博物館。這一天的行程很緊張，為此我把鬧鐘定在了早晨430，清晨鬧鐘一響趕緊起床，收拾好要帶的物品后就出門，打車去長途汽車站。打車途中就遇到大霧天氣，能見度極低，非常熟悉路況的司機(jī)差點(diǎn)迷了路，等把我送到車站買好票坐上車，車站調(diào)度因?yàn)樘鞖庠?因暫停發(fā)車，所有的班車都滯留在車站。這下好了，汽車站效仿了機(jī)場(chǎng)，因大霧天氣，暫緩發(fā)車。無奈的旅客們只好坐在車上等。一直等到730，車站才放行。白白耽誤了1個(gè)多小時(shí)，這讓原本時(shí)間就不寬松的行程變的越發(fā)的緊張了，車到蒙山路口已經(jīng)是900了。所好的是從蒙山路口下車后就看到一輛黑車停在路口，司機(jī)正在拉三個(gè)學(xué)生上車，學(xué)生也是第一次去蒙山，不了解情況，正猶豫間我走了過去，問司機(jī)多少錢，司機(jī)回答一人五元，按照路牌路口到蒙山景區(qū)11公里，每人5元的價(jià)格還算可以，于是就和3個(gè)學(xué)生拼車來到了蒙山。 蒙山是山東第二大山，第一自然是泰山。雖說沒聽說有什么特別美的自然風(fēng)景，可這次是帶著“任務(wù)”來的，就盡量按照雜志社稿件的內(nèi)容拍攝吧。事先也看到了文稿的內(nèi)容，那就按照文稿按圖索驥的拍。但實(shí)話說，蒙山的風(fēng)景相比其他名山而言，確實(shí)是不夠秀美，這里沒有江南山川的秀美，也沒有西部山峰的險(xiǎn)峻，最主要的是此山水少，自然就缺少了點(diǎn)靈秀之氣，這也是我之前去過一次泰山就不再去第二次的原因。我喜歡的山是應(yīng)該有水的，一直覺得山水應(yīng)該是相依相存的。雖不是智者，但女人愛水也屬于天性吧。蒙山，古稱東蒙、東山，為泰沂山脈的一個(gè)分支?？偯娣e1125平方公里，其中龜蒙景區(qū)為625平方公里，主峰龜蒙頂海拔1156米，因其狀如神龜伏臥云端而得名，為山東第二高峰，被譽(yù)為“岱宗之亞”?，F(xiàn)為國家AAAA級(jí)旅游區(qū)、國家地質(zhì)公園、國家森林公園、東方養(yǎng)生長壽圣地、山東省十大最美的地方、十佳山岳旅游區(qū)和十佳自駕車旅游區(qū)。“孔子登東山而小魯”中的東山即指龜蒙景區(qū)。蒙山我感覺所好之處是比魯南的嶧山樹多，雖說也有那種大石塊，但森林覆蓋率還是很高的，這點(diǎn)在山東的魯南地區(qū)也是很少見的。龜蒙山成為東方養(yǎng)生長壽圣地，故山上以壽為主的內(nèi)容蠻多的。山神廟，只是大門緊閉，不知看廟的哪里去了。讓我想起那個(gè)故事：從前有座山，山上有座廟，廟里有個(gè)老和尚。。。這讓我想起那首《沂蒙山小調(diào)》： 人人那個(gè)都說哎 沂蒙山好 沂蒙那個(gè)山上哎 好風(fēng)光 青山那個(gè)綠水哎 多好看 風(fēng)吹那個(gè)草低哎 見牛羊 高梁那個(gè)紅來哎 稻花那個(gè)香 滿擔(dān)那個(gè) 果蛋哎 堆滿倉剛還說山東的山少水，這水還真就看到了呢。沒想到這里還有個(gè)九龍?zhí)?。其?shí)這九龍?zhí)?就是個(gè)水庫，春季是枯水期，蓄水量并不大，但給蒙山這個(gè)缺水的山帶來了靈秀之氣，給山下的村民和農(nóng)田提供了水源，也給我的畫面增添了美感。 。。。。。。山間里也有溪流，但確實(shí)很小，春季屬于干旱期，這水就更少了，可臨沂旅游規(guī)劃者們倒也有招數(shù)，把個(gè)山間溪流取名情人谷，用了一大堆與情相關(guān)聯(lián)的詞語給這里的山水命名，以吸引年輕人來此造訪。鴛鴦潭，就是此潭淺了點(diǎn)。洗個(gè)鴛鴦浴啥的有點(diǎn)小，呵呵。這里有愛情，也有財(cái)氣，看你需要什么了。遺憾的是俺這次是獨(dú)行，來此情人谷行游純屬是“自尋煩惱”，匆匆拍攝完這些景點(diǎn)后立馬閃人。月老祠邊有個(gè)人一直忽悠游人到月老祠拜一拜，我還是沒進(jìn)去，路過，咔嚓一張片子，走人。實(shí)話說，這沂蒙山相比較南方的山，這花花開的有點(diǎn)太可憐了。 原以為蒙山不咋高，不會(huì)很難爬，沒想到這座1000多海拔的山爬起來還真不少費(fèi)時(shí)間。同行的很多人都累得氣喘吁吁，我還算好，雖說也很累，但沒像他們那樣如老牛喘氣。蒙山最美的一個(gè)景點(diǎn)當(dāng)屬鷹窩巖，因無人攀登而故名。其他地方的所謂景點(diǎn)就太一般般了。可居然在山上看到了一首摩崖詩：具有華山之險(xiǎn)，黃山之秀，長白山之翠，乃神山也。也不知是哪位大俠的杰作，真能吹啊，也不怕把山上的大石頭給吹跑嘍。鷹窩峰是蒙山最美的景觀點(diǎn)。該峰叢于深壑峽谷之中拔地而起，直刺蒼穹，奇峰東側(cè)絕壁千仞如削，峻巖森森，草木不生；南側(cè)峭壁罅隙，奇松橫偃，或倒立下垂，或凌空欲飛，或如蛟蟠龍欲撕云吞日，千姿百態(tài)，瑰瑋萬狀。因只有蒼鷹盤旋其伴，筑巢其上，而得名“鷹窩峰”。山峰景色奇絕，實(shí)乃山水之畫屏，天壤之奧區(qū)。鷹峰奇觀為蒙山十大景觀之一，自古就有“不到鷹窩峰，枉為蒙山行”之說。 蒙山最美風(fēng)景，來2張接片展示一下。 這便是那大忽悠的“詩作”。倒是這天街有那么點(diǎn)點(diǎn)泰山十八盤的感覺，但臺(tái)階數(shù)可差多了。 這里也來兩張接片看看全景。氣浴清新之處，來此要多做深呼吸哦，要是夏季雨過天晴那空氣會(huì)更好，可惜是春季干旱之時(shí)，這空氣中的負(fù)氧離子含量要低好多。群龜探?！ ≡撎幒?拔達(dá)千余米，寒冬作用強(qiáng)烈，加上各種裂隙眾多，經(jīng)過千萬年的風(fēng)化、崩解和剝蝕，雕琢成奇峰陡立、怪石嶙峋的景觀，特別是在多組裂隙交會(huì)的棱角部位，經(jīng)過長年化學(xué)風(fēng)化作用形成如龜似獸的怪石，因峽谷中常能形成云海、霧海，在云霧的襯托下構(gòu)成了神龜探海的絕妙景觀。龜 蒙 頂 龜蒙頂是蒙山主峰，海拔為1156米，為山東第二高峰，是龜蒙景區(qū)的高潮景觀區(qū)。峰體呈穹窿形，象一只巨大的神龜，伏臥于云端天際，給人以神秘奇幻的感覺。 。。。。。。。。置身龜蒙極頂，俯視周圍，萬壑流云，煙霞明滅，蒼山如海，綠浪滾滾，碧連天際。正如唐代文學(xué)家蕭穎士在詩中所寫：“東蒙鎮(zhèn)海沂，合沓百余里”。蒙頂樹木蔥蘢，花草叢生，已逾百年的古松，蒼勁挺拔，如龍如虬，如翠蓋，如層樓，或偃，或臥，或獨(dú)干，或連枝，或出山巔，或生石罅。松蔭連翠，望之若云。遠(yuǎn)眺山外田疇，平曠秀麗，浚河、東汶河的一些支流，就像蜿蜒小溪，曲回流淌。再遠(yuǎn)處，西面的徂徠山，東面的天馬嶺，南面的抱犢崮，隱隱現(xiàn)出灰色的輪廓，和近山構(gòu)成一幅美麗的山水畫。登上龜蒙頂，云生腳下，天風(fēng)習(xí)習(xí)，舉目四望，但見群峰葡匐，河流天傾，庫水如鏡，田園如詩如畫，昂頭天外，倍感心曠神怡，超凡脫俗。玉皇殿高高的立在龜蒙山頂，想去參拜下玉皇大帝還真不容易。([]
91吃瓜在線黑料網(wǎng)在線看
夏勛怡KKKKKKKKKKK關(guān)于食物 裝備總重在200斤左右，包含車子本身。其中食物總計(jì)100斤左右，分列如下。 主食：糌粑50斤（丟棄一斤），壓縮餅干25斤。 輔食：大蒜4.5斤（腐爛半斤），酥油4斤，花生米4斤，鹽2斤，麥片2斤（丟棄一斤），紫菜1.5斤，辣椒粉1.5斤，奶粉1斤，白糖1斤，茶葉1斤，巧克力0.5斤，蝦皮0.5斤，調(diào)料包0.5斤。 食物以糌粑和壓縮餅干為主，零食可忽略不計(jì)。在羌塘大體力環(huán)境下，每日攝取熱量至少應(yīng)在5000大卡，顯然食物攜帶量要達(dá)到這一指是不可能的。上世紀(jì)早期以斯文赫定為代表的西方人首次觸及這片神秘疆域，雖然他們帶了大批活羊雞什么的，但捕獵還是非常重要的補(bǔ)給手段，那時(shí)野生動(dòng)物太多了，也沒有現(xiàn)在的動(dòng)物保護(hù)觀念。能堅(jiān)持就不要打動(dòng)物的主意，再則一個(gè)人在沒有機(jī)動(dòng)裝備情況下獵殺動(dòng)物是非常難的，沒有想的那么浪漫。言歸正傳，本次旅行每天攝取食物熱量有如下四個(gè)階段。 一、克制期，前45天里每天攝取熱量在1400大卡左右，大致4兩糌粑和2.5兩壓縮餅干，一些湯料為輔。攝取熱量屬于中度饑俄狀態(tài)，下午四點(diǎn)以后基本就無力了。此階段食物控制的極為嚴(yán)格，以至于45天里消耗的主食才30斤（另有三天意外補(bǔ)給，后文詳述）。 二、提升期，由于前期食物控制非常成功，所以總行程過3/5，食物卻消耗2/5，因此每日口糧提升至5兩糌粑和3.75兩壓縮餅干。但僅一周后，食物就完全失控了。 三、失控期，從第52天開始，食物完全失控，原因既有生理上的需求，也有精神上的欲望，每天夜不能寐，腦海中總是一幅山珍海味的蜃景?？刂?力低下時(shí)，干吃糌粑粉都能吃掉半斤，如零食般。 四、超控期，第64天開始至74天遇人救助，每天食物熱量攝取不足800大卡，少于身體基本代謝量。 從食物種類上可以看出，為了控制負(fù)重，食物以熱量轉(zhuǎn)換效率高的碳水化合物為主。零食基本沒有，花生米都覺得不該帶，因?yàn)楹笃?會(huì)控制不住，花生米會(huì)被當(dāng)做美食很快消耗掉。全程無肉，吃過一次蔬菜，微量元素靠金施爾康。沒有動(dòng)物脂肪的缺點(diǎn)是，抗寒力和身體耐力會(huì)下降，例如生活在北極圈的愛斯基摩人，不吃肉是沒法長久活下去的。 水，始終是個(gè)大問，期間斷水多次。后期雖雨季水多，河系泛濫，但水質(zhì)多混雜不堪，時(shí)而無奈?？v觀全程，飲用清潔地表水的天數(shù)約占20%，融雪和礦水（包括輕度鹽堿水、泥沙水等）各占40%?？梢娙魺o雪則命不保，當(dāng)然輕度鹽堿水喝多了麻煩是非常大的， 我仔細(xì)查看了楊同志的關(guān)于食物的帖子，對(duì)吃的食物做了以下計(jì)算：前45天消耗糌粑18斤壓縮餅干12.5斤，45-52天消耗糌粑3.5斤壓縮餅干2.6斤，64-74天每天攝取800大卡《糌粑每千克熱量為3390》合消耗2.4斤糌粑，那么第52-64天的食物應(yīng)該是糌粑50-18-3.5-2.4=26.1斤和壓縮餅干25-12.5-2.6=9.9斤，這一段時(shí)間每天的消耗為糌粑2.1斤和0.82斤壓縮餅干，我沒有吃過糌粑，不知道一個(gè)人一天能否吃得下？ 同時(shí)也請(qǐng)告知 穿越出來后體重下降多少好計(jì)算脂肪代謝產(chǎn)生的能量。 關(guān)于汽油的消耗：總共只帶8.6升，平均每天僅有0.115升，93號(hào)汽油的熱值是48MJ每KG，看那邊水溫不會(huì)高于10度，氣壓低沸點(diǎn)低些，化雪時(shí)消耗更多熱量，有時(shí)還取暖，而且小楊同志有喝茶的習(xí)慣，這點(diǎn)汽油夠每天用嗎？ 注意看完第二頁再回帖 關(guān)于托包問：看到小楊同志帶了2個(gè)后馱包，2個(gè)前馱包，車把上也有一個(gè)包，后貨架還有一個(gè)，我想知道這些包容積分別有多大，物品是怎樣分裝的，好讓我仔細(xì)計(jì)算各種物品能否裝進(jìn)包里，雖然通過照片也基本上能判斷各個(gè)包的體積，但有具體數(shù)據(jù)會(huì)更好。 另外從下面照片中可以看出車子有明顯的不同，如三腳架下瓶子及捆綁繩不同，后貨架綁帶不同，多了把鏟子，大撐不見了《帖子中得知是你拆的》等，容易讓人懷疑是不是同一輛車。 關(guān)于輪胎問：看帖得知中途沒有換過輪胎，可仔細(xì)對(duì)比前后期輪胎照片，感覺輪胎花紋有些不同，不知道是不是輪胎磨損造成的。如果輪胎花紋確實(shí)不同，而沒有科學(xué)的解釋，那么就說明很多問了，這一點(diǎn)非常重要。還有車和包有時(shí)很臟有時(shí)很干凈，難道中途洗了幾次裝備嗎？最后大家對(duì)比中圖和上樓圖中的前輪托架，看他們的構(gòu)造是否相同，前車前托架有2根橫梁連接到避震桿上，后車只有一根橫梁連接，這真是同一輛車嗎？本人才疏學(xué)淺，希望各學(xué)科的馿友從各自專業(yè)的角度參與分析，給小楊同志一個(gè)肯定?？吹絅多回復(fù)感覺不爽！大家的心理我都明白，假如有一天有人證實(shí)這次穿越摻了水分，你們又該做何感想！“逆流之河”77天穿越曾深深的震撼了我！同為“獨(dú)行馿”很難想象他是怎么完成如此艱難的穿越，可如今留給我的是深深的失望，我相信你到了里面，而且不止一次進(jìn)入，就算你帶了后援，或者分幾段完成穿越，你還是受人尊敬的，可你不該編出一個(gè)“獨(dú)自77天穿越”的故事來騙大家，也許你有你的苦衷，也許是為了那該死的名利。。。。。。你欠大家一個(gè)道歉！勇敢的站出來吧！其實(shí)大家就是不愿意相信有假，多仔細(xì)看看后面那輛車確實(shí)跟前面不是同樣的，明擺著的事！一味的崇拜！對(duì)我用最惡毒的語言也無法掩蓋事實(shí)的真相！只能說明你們更可悲！ 又發(fā)現(xiàn)新證據(jù)，大家仔細(xì)看圖中的防潮墊，數(shù)一數(shù)上面的凹凸花紋，這是2張不同的防潮墊！經(jīng)再次查看，這個(gè)證據(jù)站不住腳，失誤了。 很晚了！休息了昨晚失誤了，今天繼續(xù)找證據(jù)，真的假不了，假的真不了，不著急。 63天前貨架是好的64天前貨架是好的67天帖子中原文： 還是堅(jiān)持著，推了三百多米，猛然把車一摞，罵了句，還真以為我是玩雜技的啊！然后回頭去找拆散的車架。把車拼好，能拆的零件都拆掉，剩鏈條搞不掂，又回頭找拆煉器，第一次用，興奮，以為很精密很技術(shù)，很快捷的把鏈條拆了。這時(shí)又發(fā)現(xiàn)，后貨架一側(cè)斷了，其實(shí)也沒什么大不了的了。6MM鋼筋，在螺絲間都加了橡膠墊片，避免硬連接的金屬疲勞，極端的環(huán)境下還是不行。前貨架也是用6MM鋼筋焊接的，除了繡，一切都好，負(fù)重不多了，馱包置前，輕物置后，夠用了。 今天，是自行車的崩潰之日，最具崩潰代表性的不是輪胎或鋼貨架，而是腳撐。很有故事，道來。因為去年羌塘之行深刻意識(shí)到拍照很辛苦，原因之一就是要把自行車放倒、再扶起，看似簡(jiǎn)單，卻極耗體力精力，流失很多拍照機(jī)會(huì)。一般的單腳撐基本上瞬間彎，鋼制的無法保持大負(fù)重的自行車平衡，所以特地尋了一款類似摩托車的雙叉中架腳撐，試驗(yàn)很不錯(cuò)，可羌塘實(shí)際地貌是不適合的，地太軟，腳撐難以平衡，所以一次未用，但又拆不下來，（由于其固定結(jié)構(gòu)很頑固，又沒帶匹配大扳手，嘗試無數(shù)次無用）。每每看著這腳撐，覺得委屈，兩斤多重的無用貨，早知換成備用鞋。也是在今天，奇跡發(fā)生，腳撐松動(dòng)，兩端螺絲用手就拎開了，終于卸了這負(fù)擔(dān)。 晚上又失眠，除了想吃的流口水外，還想著腳撐的重量可以換些什么好吃的帶。 原文第一段最后一句說前貨架一切都好，第二段第一句說最具崩潰性的不是輪胎或貨架，而是腳撐。下圖已經(jīng)明白證實(shí)前貨架有一邊中間梁沒有了。現(xiàn)在可以肯定前左貨架壞了吧！ 73天照片顯示貨架卻是好的，怎么說法，難道帶了電焊機(jī)嗎？關(guān)于我的私人情況嗎？以后大家就會(huì)明白我是個(gè)什么樣的人，一些與我有過節(jié)的人故意斷章取意趁機(jī)攻擊我，我坦然面對(duì)。。。。。。我現(xiàn)在沒有精力理那般小人。 去山里轉(zhuǎn)了2天出來，沒有上網(wǎng)，今天繼續(xù)找證據(jù)，剛才從藏羚羊群的圖片看出點(diǎn)端倪，可是帖子已經(jīng)用文字把漏洞封了，在很多有漏洞的地方，帖子總能用文字修補(bǔ)。。。要找到更多的證據(jù)恐怕需要花更多的時(shí)間。不過通過搜索知道有很多科學(xué)考察隊(duì)和其他人員進(jìn)入過里面，相信會(huì)有解開謎底的那一天，我會(huì)繼續(xù)努力尋找證據(jù)，絕不會(huì)中途停止。看你們這些可憐的人！人肉我又如何，沒有辦法推翻我的觀點(diǎn)只能采取這種下三濫的手段，人肉也不詳細(xì)些，我是買不起裝備的人嗎？我是沒受過高等教育的人嗎？特別要鄙視那些桂林本地的混帳東西，就因為我來自陽朔鄉(xiāng)下，創(chuàng)建了桂林先行者戶外AA群，搶了你們的飯碗，蓋過了你們的風(fēng)頭，你們就想方設(shè)法搞臭我，你們能辦到嗎？我們桂林先行者戶外群為什么能不斷狀大，能健康成長，我為什么能受到群友的愛戴，為什么你們不想想原因呢？你們不是很會(huì)人肉嗎！為什么搜不到我上周末的行蹤呢？難道你們瞎了眼看不到桂林先行者幾十人的隊(duì)伍行走在香花嶺古道嗎？([]
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李珮卿Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學(xué)的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學(xué)的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個(gè)免責(zé)聲明：1。楊同學(xué)不認(rèn)識(shí)俺，也沒有授權(quán)俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時(shí)終止；2。俺沒有商業(yè)目的，譯版版權(quán)歸楊同學(xué)，俺啥也不要，也不承擔(dān)法律責(zé)任；3。沒有楊同學(xué)授權(quán)，不敢擅自發(fā)在國外網(wǎng)站，發(fā)在原帖處，榮譽(yù)歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉(zhuǎn)貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復(fù)了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機(jī)會(huì)一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點(diǎn)兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵(lì)。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth(
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