哈利波特與魔法石
黃秀輝 13774萬字 14875人讀過 連載
好久沒有寫點什么了。去了歐洲不少地方，借這次貼，幫大家總結(jié)一下歐洲旅游的的大概交通以及歐洲的一些經(jīng)驗。我會盡量把每個景點的德語名和地鐵站也給大家列出來，方便以后出行。小囡完結(jié)文推薦：我的西班牙情結(jié)－巴塞羅那（更新完）https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1263433-1-1.html結(jié)束了大大小小的考試之后開始準備申根，如果你在弄歐洲的申根的話，強烈推薦德國，不少朋友第一次都給了3個月多次往返，且每次時間長達30天，這個是別的國家不可能達到的大方。這樣三個月內(nèi)你可以隨意去歐洲而不用準備證，省了很多麻煩。并且德國的申根是不需要定機票的。這次的行程是 德國—奧地利—捷克 ，因為三個國家都接壤，所以直接飛去柏林，然后從布拉格飛回曼徹斯特，中間都是火車，個人比較偏好坐火車的感覺，沿途穿越歐洲大陸，看著風景，又何嘗不是一種享受。嘎嘎。 具體行程路線：德國，柏林—科隆—慕尼黑—天鵝堡—慕尼黑奧地利，慕尼黑—薩爾斯堡—國王湖（屬于德國，但是薩爾斯堡比慕尼黑的距離短）—維也納捷克，維也納—布拉格—Kutna Hora—布拉格—Český Krumlov(ck小鎮(zhèn))—布拉格（如果有童鞋想去匈牙利布達佩斯，可以從維也納先去布達佩斯，大概2個半小時，然后從布達佩斯去布拉格，這樣是最合理的）交通：曼徹斯特—柏林，漢莎航空，（這個是中文網(wǎng)址 https//www.lufthansa.com/cn/mi/Homepage）不要迷信廉價航空一定便宜，官網(wǎng)有很多deal，比廉行的便宜，而且行李免費托運一件的。布拉格—曼徹斯特，jet2，這個是廉價航空，不過個人感覺比easyjet好多了，起碼不是那么亂，而且服務(wù)還不錯。www.jet2.com 對了，如果有想歐洲境內(nèi)飛的，且想省錢的，給大家一個概念，飛機比火車便宜，飛機有很多廉價航空，比如之前提到的jet2,easyjet,ryanair,bmibaby,flybe等，價錢很便宜，但是只能拿一個隨身行李帶上飛機，并且大小有嚴格要求，還有重量，如果要托運需要加錢。機上不供應(yīng)免費的酒水和餐。他們的航線會有所不同。不過歐洲國家飛機最遠也超不過3個小時，所以廉行是一個很不錯的旅行省錢選擇。住宿我是屬于比較挑剔住宿的人，必須干凈和有免費的wifi，主要覺得玩一天累了可以有一張床讓我期待。嘿嘿。住宿我會在下面不同的城市列出來。不過所有的住宿都是在www.booking.com上定的。德國交通機場出來，直接找information處，可以問怎么去你的酒店。他會給你推薦公交還是地鐵地鐵分為S-bahn 和 U-bahn，當天買天票，可以隨便坐。單次的票，2個小時之內(nèi)隨便坐。城市之間：德國聯(lián)邦鐵路 DB Bahn 中文網(wǎng)址 https//www.detie.cn/ 英文網(wǎng)址 https//www.bahn.de/i/view/overseas/en/index.shtml 它還有app，直接搜DB 就出來了， 下免費的那個，可以實時查火車時間，站臺什么的，很方便快車停靠站相對較少，主要有ICE,IC/EC慢車?？空鞠鄬?較多，主要有RB,RE.IRE有的時候快車慢車可以差4，5個小時，所以提前計劃好，當然票價也差很多。天氣：柏林的7月大概就二十多度，也可能是那兩天天陰，有雨，帶外套是必須的?；疖嚿?的空調(diào)一般都是很足的。初到柏林，得瑟一下，嘎嘎。勃蘭登堡門﹙Brandenburger Tor﹚ 也稱凱旋門，是柏林的志，位于東西柏林分界線上。是柏林第一座古典主義建筑物。地址：Pariser Platz 11017 Berlin地鐵：Brandenburger Tor站勝利柱 Siegessä;ule勃蘭登堡門背對著可以看到也可以乘地鐵到Hansaplatz站勃蘭登堡門正對著的就是菩提樹下大街 Unter den Linden延著這條街一直走下去，可以到柏林大教堂和柏林博物館島，Museuminsel由老博物館(Altes Museum)，在它前面伸展著盧斯特花園。最北端是新博物館(Neues Museum)和老國家藝術(shù)畫廊(Alte Nationalgalerie)。面向西側(cè)的是佩加蒙博物館(Pergamonmuseum)，最外側(cè)的是博德博物館(Bodemuseum)，組成。地址： Unter den Linden/Am Kupfergraben 10178 Berlin Mitte地鐵：Friedrichstraße站柏林大教堂Berliner Dom 仿造羅馬的彼得大教堂，具有意大利文藝復(fù)興盛期和巴羅風格。地址：Am Lustgarten 10178 Berlin Mitte地鐵：Hackescher Markt站柏林國會大廈 REIchstag 國會大廈不僅是聯(lián)邦議會的所在地，它屋頂的穹形玻璃圓頂也是俯瞰城市全貌的很好選擇，和勃蘭登堡門很近。地址：Platz der Republik 1,11011 Berlin Tiergarten地鐵：Brandengburger Tor站遠處不需要門票，如果要去玻璃頂要提前預(yù)約拿門票，一直到晚上8點也可以。門票是免費的。波茨坦廣場 Potsdamer Platz 是新柏林的象征，DB，購物中心，索尼中心，都集中在這里。最有名的就是柏林電影節(jié)走的星光大道也在這里地鐵：Potsdamer Platz站星光大道柏林墻 Berliner Maues不知道是什么節(jié)日還是政要會首，我們正好碰上德國總理默克爾閱兵，還蠻幸運，只拍了一個背影最后，附一張德國柏林的地鐵圖 德國的總火車站都是Hauptbahnhof，簡稱hbf，買車票的時候要選車站，可以用到?？坡? 其實火車站一出來就是科隆大教堂，如果只看這個，不打算萊茵河坐船游的話就沒有必要住了。住宿：XII Apostel Albergohttps//www.booking.com/hotel/de/xii-apostel-albergo.en-gb.html?sid=a8a14747e6a0b49920eb3df0546e1b64;dcid=2條件還是不錯的，地理位置也很好，晚上比較熱鬧，但是偏貴。交通科隆沒有多大，景點也差不多在一起，走路就夠了，沒有必要買什么地鐵票。天氣明顯比柏林熱太多了，柏林還是長褲，到了科隆立馬短褲。科隆大教堂 一出火車站就看到了，聞名世界的科隆大教堂 ([]
最新章節(jié)： 第521章 寵愛 （ 2024-12-20 10:00:25）
更新時間： 2024-12-20 05:30:03
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曹依正踏雪峨眉末日重生金頂祈福 瑪雅人不靠譜，說好的世界末日鬧了半天原來是人家過新年，可天朝更不靠譜，元旦假期太坑爹，節(jié)后連上8天班堪比世界末日，都上班三天了明天才是星期一。。。。。 此次峨眉之行，感謝老天的眷顧，讓我們藍天、日落、云海、日出、貢嘎都見到了；感謝所有的隊友們，如果沒有大家的理解和互相幫助，這次行程不可能那么順利的完成。這次是我第一次重裝徒步也是最后一次重裝徒步，徹底走崩潰了，走到想死的心都有了，發(fā)誓從今以后再也不重裝徒步了。 此次活動的召人帖： 2013年元旦樂山大佛峨眉山新年祈福，重裝徒步峨眉后山(滿員啦)https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1476627-1-1.html 因此行是重裝穿越，所以在隊友的選定上做了一定的篩選，最后確定18人出行，4MM：譕語、彭彭、蚊子、婷子；14GG：大腳、大蟲、丸子、覺悟、深淵、深藍、格子、迷惘、浩克、足跡行、千里走單騎、王者、老陳、小黑（排名不分先后） 財務(wù)組：彭彭、王者 大廚組：丸子、蚊子 領(lǐng)隊組：大腳、譕語 娛樂組：小黑 攝影組：足跡行圖1：萬佛頂集體照圖21月2日早上日照貢嘎金山感謝彭彭的詳細記錄，感謝王者一路安全身揣巨款，下表是回來后我根據(jù)財務(wù)組的記錄整理出來的明細表下面請允許我一一介紹我們這18個優(yōu)秀的隊友們大腳——活動組織者之一，收隊領(lǐng)隊，任勞任怨，就是有點羅嗦，老被我和彭彭吵，吵他也不生氣，回頭還繼續(xù)羅嗦，哈哈大蟲——出發(fā)前三天因人臨時退出加入我們隊伍的哥哥，體力超好，上山那天最早一個達到萬佛頂格子——這次最幸福男人，兩美女跟著混帳，不過為此也付出了代價，背一3人帳，落在最后，包最重老陳——從武漢打飛的來的大哥，出發(fā)那天下午飛機到，一出輕軌就上車了，連晚飯都沒顧得上吃覺悟——在外地出差沒參加行前會的家伙，說懲罰他給我們表演節(jié)目結(jié)果一直沒找到合適的機會迷惘——別看瘦，走的老快了~千里走單騎——也是個體能超好的哥，到達山頂后又返回接應(yīng)我們，特別感謝！深淵——深淵大哥自稱為新驢，實際上他一點都不像新驢，太謙虛了丸子——最要深深感謝的哥，在最困難的時候幫助了我，如果沒有他幫忙背包，我估計就掛在峨眉后山了王者——CFO，首席財務(wù)官，一路身揣巨款，到達萬佛頂后還返回接應(yīng)我們幫著背包，好哥哥一枚小黑——我們的娛樂組長，一路上給我們講冷笑話，開心不少，路上還幫忙分擔物資，沒有小黑走不上山的，可惜沒有更清晰的照片，這個都還是手機拍的，原諒我小黑足跡行——我的御用攝影師，一路上攝影包都超過40斤了，光給我拍照了，他自己也不給自己拍張帥點的，這張都還是在重慶洪崖洞我拿手機拍的浩克——我們年齡最小的隊友，還是在讀研究生，我們開玩笑說他都可以叫大腳叔叔了~小伙子很靦腆，不大愛說話，帥哥一枚深藍、婷子——全隊唯一的夫妻檔，非常恩愛，體力也很好，后來還分擔了向?qū)Я孟碌墓彩巢?，?子后來還下山接應(yīng)了最后的隊友彭彭——財務(wù)組記賬美女，此行的車也是她找熟人才要到優(yōu)惠價，親，我找了所有的照片都沒找到你的靚照，只好從你空間轉(zhuǎn)來張了蚊子——美女一枚，最艱難的時候義不容辭的幫忙分擔物資，可姐們對不起啊，我給你拍的照片都沒拍好譕語——此次活動的召集者就是本人也 簡單介紹完隊友，因很多都是第一次一起同行且是短線，對大家了解還不夠，如介紹有誤地方還請見諒，歡迎隊友互相補充圖文，欲知4女14男的故事，敬請明兒個趕早，更多精彩故事敬請期待。。。。。。 調(diào)整行程 出行前四天晚上，老爸從峨眉半山七里坪打來電話說：下大雪了，公路上的積雪都能淹沒腳了。我天天關(guān)注著峨眉山的天氣，看到未來一周的天氣預(yù)報，出行前三天臨時決定調(diào)整行程，31號晚上直接到峨眉，1號就上萬佛頂，因為天氣預(yù)報說2號晚上有可能會下雪，征求大伙無異議，遂聯(lián)系向?qū)Ь频甑取?還好我英明的調(diào)整了下行程，要不然按原計劃行程的話啥美景也見不到，因為我們下山的時候就開始下雪了。。。。。。 調(diào)整后的行程如下：D0、12月31日重慶—內(nèi)江—宜賓—樂山—峨眉山市區(qū)（全程高速未下道）D1、1月1日峨眉山市區(qū)—觀音河—核桃坪—萬佛頂D2、1月2日萬佛頂—金頂—雷洞坪—零公里—峨眉山市區(qū)—樂山市區(qū)D3、1月3日樂山市區(qū)—（樂山大佛）—宜賓—瀘州—榮昌—重慶樂山美女 在2012年的最后一天的最后一刻，臨近2400.本來睡得迷迷糊糊的男士們就像打了一雞血，個個都興奮的不得了，只因李師傅一句話：哇，美女?？看皯?的男士們個個都用力的擦玻璃上的露，只為一睹美女芳容。原來，我們下高速了，收費站的收費員是一美女，副駕位的大腳乃是近水樓臺先得月，除了能清楚的一睹美女芳容外，還口水滴答的拿起手機拍了一張美女照片，然后對我們說：誰要看的來我這里啊，一塊錢看一眼~此PP已成為大腳的私人珍藏品，當然無圖無真相給大家看了。。。。。ps如果不是大家今天在群里開玩笑說大腳去樂山找美女了的話我都忘記這段了。 后來我們住的酒店前臺是個美女，餐廳吃飯也是個美女，李師傅說：我發(fā)現(xiàn)啊，只要是收錢的都是美女，哈哈。他多年來行走樂山峨眉山兩地，總結(jié)出來一個經(jīng)驗：樂山出美女，且樂山的美女比峨眉山的美女漂亮。哈哈，我笑道：樂山出美女那是必須滴，遠在天邊近在眼前。李師傅問我，為什么樂山的姑娘比峨眉的漂亮呢？我說這個問太專業(yè)了，我可不是磚家無法解答，不過有可能是因為樂山有山有水又有佛嘛，所謂仁者樂山、智者樂水，所以大家對美都有不同的見解。 覺悟=覺捂時間：2013年1月1日早上720地點：錦里假日酒店餐廳，故事1背景：早上我起的晚，到達餐廳時大伙已經(jīng)吃的很hi了，一看雞蛋沒有了，雖然我不想吃，但是我還是要拿個揣著路上吃的，于是。。。。我：服務(wù)員，拿點雞蛋，雞蛋沒有了。服務(wù)員：好的，馬上就來。說完沒多久給我拿了幾個雞蛋過來。我正吃著吃著，服務(wù)員喊了：把你們的早餐券給我。服務(wù)員數(shù)了數(shù)早餐券后問：你們多少人??？我：19個啊，券都是齊的呀。服務(wù)員的臉上掛著我說不清的表情。。。。 時間：2013年1月1日早上730地點：車上故事2背景：早餐后前往觀音河的車上。譕語：大家早餐都吃飽了嗎？誰要是沒吃飽的，我這兒還有個雞蛋沒吃揣著呢。剛一說完，大家伙一陣狂笑，把我笑納悶了，你們笑啥呢有人說：覺悟身上揣了8個雞蛋。。。。。。。譕語：這哈我明白為啥餐廳服務(wù)員問我們有多少人了。。。。。。至于后續(xù)這8個雞蛋他是怎么吃掉的，偶就不知道了，反正我那個雞蛋是給浩克了。。。 時間：2013年1月1日1400左右地點：峨眉后山上故事3背景：大概已經(jīng)重裝徒步了2個小時左右，下午太陽正大，大家都在脫厚衣服，我都想脫掉輕薄款的羽絨服穿短袖了，覺悟還穿著沖鋒衣+抓絨等譕語：覺悟，你不熱??？覺悟：還好?。∽O語：好吧，你可以改名覺捂了。。。。。。 愿天堂沒有車禍 車行半個多小時后，太陽出來了，天氣非常好。忽然李師傅剎車了，前方堵車，這個點不應(yīng)該啊，師傅下車查看情況后告訴我們，前方車禍，聽說有人掛了。幾個GG一聽，讓師傅開門，要下車去看，嘿，回來，拿個對講機，感謝深藍和格子各提供對講機2個。對講機里傳來聲音：一輛裝著石子的大貨車側(cè)翻把一輛小貨車給埋了，現(xiàn)在人正在搶救，看情況短時間內(nèi)通車比較困難，石子把小貨車全埋了，人還沒挖出來完。聽說小貨車一共載了5個人，一個重傷救護車送走了，2個已經(jīng)掛了，還有駕駛室2個還沒挖出來，2013年新年第一天啊，這對他們家人來說是多么大的打擊和傷痛，為死者默哀，愿天堂沒有車禍，也借此給各位開車的朋友提個醒，開車一定要注意安全，尤其是冰雪天。明天與意外你不知道哪個會先來，所以一定要珍愛生命，珍惜現(xiàn)在的每一天！ 不幸已經(jīng)發(fā)生，車已堵，可我們的路還得繼續(xù)前進，我們時間堵不起啊，今天得上到萬佛頂，不然明天要是真的下雪了，啥也看不到不說路還不好走，當即想到聯(lián)系龍池鎮(zhèn)的面包車來接應(yīng)我們，我們背包走過堵車段，還好之前攻略做的詳細，記得有面包車司機電話。有人提出到對面堵車的地方看看能不能找到車，這樣也許會省點費用，于是我讓王者陪著我下車一起去對向找車，道路結(jié)冰，很滑，看到消防醫(yī)護人員仍在搶救?？吹揭粋€司機開車一輛空的面包車，可他不愿意返回走，無奈，只好給攻略里的面包車司機打電話，請他安排3輛面包車來接我們，價格也沒談，先來車把我們先接到觀音河再說。對講機呼叫隊友們下包準備好開始徒步。車禍現(xiàn)場，后來下山聽李師傅講，他被堵到12點過才下到山正走過堵車段，面包車司機打來電話：你們還得翻過這座山，JC封路了，不讓我們上山，淚奔，本來已經(jīng)卸包就在那里等著的，又得背起來繼續(xù)走吧徒步到了公路的埡口段，不經(jīng)意間一抬頭居然看到了金頂~看來今天天氣很好 ，沒有云海坐警車 后來面包車司機想辦法開了一輛車上山來接我們，大家先把包放車上，然后輕裝下到下面村子，我一個人隨車下山落實另外2個車，另一個司機帶著大家抄近道下山。沒過多久就接到蚊子來電：譕語，你在哪里？我在交通管制的前面點點啊。我們在警車上，怎么沒看到你啊。??？！警車！我心里一戈登，她們怎么被JC逮了，我們沒干啥犯法的事??！我心里嘀咕著。我看到你了，我們來找你，把電話留給JC，蚊子在電話里頭說。啊？！還要留電話，未必不許我們上山，要買票？！我郁悶了。 我看到一輛警車向我開來，停車下來幾個我們的隊友。蚊子說：JC哥哥很好，讓我們記個他們派出所的電話，上山遇到啥子事就給他們打電話。我趕緊跑過去說：謝謝謝謝，號碼多少，我記下。JC哥哥說：今天時間有點晚了，你們就到核桃坪扎營吧，不要上山了，晚上走起危險。我答應(yīng)說：好，我們走到哪算到哪。 后來彭彭才說：她們在路上走著走著看到來了輛警車，就問下山還有多遠，JC哥哥很好停下了車，她們又說可不可以搭我們下山，就這樣，她們幾個就搭著警車下山了，差點給我嚇出一身冷汗。龍池派出所電話：0833-5582047 當我們所有人都到的時候已經(jīng)是10了，趕緊上車走人。我問司機：到觀音河要多久？司機問我們：要命不？不要命的話20分鐘，要命的話2個小時。我們異口同聲的連答：要要要。司機笑著說：差不多一個小時能到，要看山上路結(jié)冰沒有，結(jié)冰了的話差不多就要2小時。拐彎處結(jié)冰了，打滑，我們都下車了前往觀音河的路就在龍池鎮(zhèn)派出所斜對面進去，上山的路不是很好，很窄，彎道多，不建議小車上山，路爛，因為長期被拉礦的貨車壓，又沒有出錢維護對面就是一礦山，頂上還有挖挖機在工作，塵土飛揚([]
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龍政峰這是6個女人的旅行，自從2012年6個女人來了趟緬甸之旅后，心就越來越野，膽子也越來越大。一年忙碌后，到了年底，突然發(fā)現(xiàn)去美國的機票好便宜，就一拍即合決定去美西自駕。因為其中三人去年4月已經(jīng)去美西自駕一次，所以有點猶豫，想起電影西雅圖夜未眠，心血來潮就把西雅圖加進去，然后又發(fā)現(xiàn)西雅圖是去阿拉斯加的門戶，于是就決定繼續(xù)向北，去阿拉斯加看極光。 訂票訂房訂車，不到兩周6個女人就起程了，三個女人一臺戲，六個女人出行注定是一場熱鬧之旅。 終于到了要出發(fā)的日子，因為6個女人，兩個有2-3年駕齡，兩個今年剛買車，一個有照不會開，一個連駕照都沒有，所以決定只租一臺車，如此一來都沒開過大車，就想租個小點的商務(wù)車，這樣就擔心行李艙放不下6件大行李，于是出發(fā)前手忙腳亂的拼箱子，爭取只帶4個大箱子，于是辦公室里被我們搞的一片大亂。去不成又心有不甘的男同事，不時在旁邊打擊著我們，比如阿拉斯加自駕冰雪路很危險之類的。但心已經(jīng)飛走的女人們雖然內(nèi)心不安，卻都被激動的情緒沖的根本聽不進去。 中午大家在樓下的餐廳聚餐吃了火鍋，辦公室所有人把我們送到樓下，當時嘴上都沒說什么，但總感覺送行有點過于隆重，有點像十送紅軍的感覺，搞的好像多久回不來似的。畢竟阿拉斯加實在太遙遠了，雖然去阿拉斯加看極光是我們的人生愿景，可是這么快就要實現(xiàn)，總覺得有那么點不真實。 機場等待出發(fā)，6個女人要拍個出發(fā)的合影，自己先拍了一張，覺得還是應(yīng)該找個人拍合影，于是抓了個旁邊候機的帥哥，那帥哥早已注意到這幫瘋瘋癲癲的女人，一看找他很高興的過來幫忙，一副早就等著召喚的模樣，拍一張還熱情的說，看看行不行，不行在給你們拍，看了6個女人走到哪里都很引人注目呢。 微信發(fā)出去，立即有回復(fù)，你們?nèi)ツ睦?？怎?還未成年人禁止入內(nèi)呀?？纯此枷氩患儩嵅?是，不就是沒注意站到吸煙室門前了嗎？ 香港中轉(zhuǎn)，在候機室品品咖啡吃吃蛋糕，說實話香港的點心味道真心不錯。國泰航空的餐飲還是不錯了，冰淇淋還是哈根達斯，早餐還有稀飯。就是十幾個小時的飛行時間實在難熬。但女人適應(yīng)環(huán)境的能力是很強的，看，要杯紅酒把自己弄得小臉通紅，準備酒后睡個好覺的，三人椅子，一頭一個抱著對方的腳的，另一個哪去了？原來自我升艙到臥鋪了。雖然不太雅觀，但畢竟可以躺下睡會了。微信發(fā)出又是一片喧嘩，這方法不錯呀，下次我們也這樣之類的。不過這個也只能是我們了，幾個女人可以，如果換成大男人這樣，呵呵，不太可能吧。為什么？你懂得。抵達洛杉磯是晚上8點多，一夜休息，精神抖擻。天氣很好，根本沒有中央電視臺說的什么，美國到處遭遇暴風雪，走之前搞的家人擔心我們，我們自己也擔心很冷，帶的全部是厚衣服，前半程西部自駕，都沒帶多少薄衣服，熱的夠嗆。酒店門前陽光燦爛，等著免費班車送我們去租車處提車。 我們租車為了討便宜找了個特價車，果然是便宜沒好貨，美國也有釣魚，先拿便宜價釣來客人，然后再以升級車輛，推銷保險等待手段加收費用。結(jié)果所以的推銷備我們拒絕，那家伙很是不高興。事實證明那臺車果然不好，尤其是剎車肉的要命，在高速上踩三腳剎車，還是往前滑嚇死人。就這么臺車卻是我們開的最長，天數(shù)最多的，而且后來發(fā)現(xiàn)我們認為小點的車好開，純屬誤區(qū)，后來租的三臺車都更大，但卻比這臺好開的多。 最最郁悶的是行李箱小，6個女人想盡辦法，幾度調(diào)整，最終行李箱里只放進三個大箱子，還有一大一小只能放在后排的車座上。 由于大部分人都到過洛杉磯，環(huán)球影城和迪斯尼也都去過了，白天也沒有什么特別的活動，因為晚上要看NBA的比賽，所以只能在洛杉磯市內(nèi)轉(zhuǎn)轉(zhuǎn)，先去圣塔莫妮卡海灘。這個海灘是洛杉磯最熱鬧的海灘，夏天會有很多人在這里曬太陽，游泳沖浪。但現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)是12月了，海灘上沒有幾個人。 其實對于我們來說，這個海灘的風景實在是沒什么，但女人就是這樣的感性動物，不管什么環(huán)境都能自娛自樂。 這也太能自得其樂，就這么個管理員的小木屋都能讓我們臭美半天雖然已經(jīng)12月，洛杉磯依然很暖和，當天氣溫近30度，戲水完全沒有問； 海灘上有很多海鷗，牠們絲毫不怕人其實到圣塔莫妮卡海灘最重要的原因就是這里，66號公路的終點。66號公路是美國的母親之路。在19世紀時是一條跑馬車的路，1927年美國政府投資修路，斷斷續(xù)續(xù)修路十幾年，終于修成了這條貫穿美國東西海岸的公路，東起芝加哥西止于洛杉磯的圣塔莫妮卡，全長近4000公路。當時正值美國30年代經(jīng)濟大蕭條時期，公路的修建為大批勞工提供了工作的機會，其后也為美國西部的開發(fā)起到了至關(guān)重要的作用。對于我們來說，最熟悉的就是阿甘在66號公路奔跑的鏡頭。、超大冰淇淋 洛杉磯除了迪斯尼樂園和環(huán)球影城，還有個蓋蒂中心。這是用石油大亨保羅蓋蒂的遺產(chǎn)建成的一個現(xiàn)代化的藝術(shù)中心，前后花費十多年才算建成。藝術(shù)館本身不收費用，只是需要付15美金的停車費。從地下停車場直接坐電梯上到樓上，這里有個小小的電車站，坐上免費的電車，蜿蜒到山頂，就看到白色的建筑，那就是藝術(shù)中心了。里面收藏品都是蓋蒂生前的收藏品，其中很多價值連城的藝術(shù)品，最為著名的就是梵高的鳶尾花，莫奈的草垛和美女。這么貴重的畫居然沒有玻璃保護，也沒有隔離欄桿，可以近距離觀賞。不過這么價值連城的藝術(shù)品，對于我們這幾個不懂藝術(shù)的人，真是極大的浪費。 里面很多畫和圣經(jīng)以及文藝復(fù)興有關(guān)，不懂圣經(jīng)和歐洲歷史完全搞不明白畫的是什么，于是兩個女伴開始對著畫斜批三國，我在后面聽得捧腹而不敢大笑，怕影響到別人，如果作者聽到她們的解說怕是氣的要從棺材里面爬出來，真是暴虐天珍啊。
一個人的星空馬路通
林皇辰今年2.29—3.25，完成了向往已久的尼泊爾EBC徒步和景區(qū)旅游，我們的路線是：成都—加都—盧卡拉—EBC(三人原路返回，一人穿越CHO LA PAAS從GOKYO返回)—盧卡拉—加都—博卡拉—藍毗尼—奇特旺—加都—成都。產(chǎn)生徒步尼泊爾EBC的愿望，最早是因為兩年前在我參加活動的杭州起點登山隊的論壇上看到“小妖精FAY”的一個帖子《天堂的約會-尼泊爾14日無背夫無向?qū)讲健罚ū菊搲?也有此帖），當時立馬“中毒”， 心想“杭州小妖精”去得，難道“杭州老妖怪”就去不得？ 年輕人能夠重裝無向?qū)В?我老頭輕裝用背夫總可以吧？話是這么說，形成決定還需多方了解情況，掂斤估兩。我自己的情況是：65歲，數(shù)年前被醫(yī)生宣布為高血壓病人，需每天服藥降壓； 從03年起間或參加過不少杭州周圍野山的登山活動，體能在團隊中屬中下等； 2009年5月去川藏，在定日珠峰大本營徒步5公里，2010年春節(jié)從德欽雨崩徒步到梅里雪山大本營， 這兩次高原行走都感覺高反輕微；去年五一，作為EBC徒步的熱身去爬了浙西清涼峰（海拔1787.4米， 8.5小時上下），下山時陡坡礫石路很難走，把四個腳趾蓋都頂黑了，筋疲力盡，但還是跟上隊伍走完了全程（能不跟上嗎？）。瀏覽了不少有關(guān)EBC徒步的網(wǎng)帖，反復(fù)權(quán)衡，最終的結(jié)論是：走EBC不需要超強的體力，但需要有一點意志和耐力， 需要有高原行走適應(yīng)高反的經(jīng)歷，因此我基本上是能夠勝任的， 盡管從古狗衛(wèi)星圖上看下去，我們將要走的路是如此嚴酷猙獰。根據(jù)旅行必須“有錢有閑”的條件， 我把出發(fā)日期定在2012年初，在杭州19樓，8264，磨房，臺灣背包客棧上都發(fā)了招伴帖，帖子發(fā)出后，前前后后來聯(lián)系的有二十多人，包括香港，日本， 臺灣的驢友， 但因為我的日程較長，上班族假期不夠或不對應(yīng)，最后成行的只有四人，其實， 這樣的徒步旅行結(jié)伴最好也就是4-6人，人多了容易意見分歧各行其是。在搜集尼泊爾旅行資料做攻略的過程中，除了上面提到“杭州小妖精”的帖子，對我?guī)椭?最大的就是簡如邠女士的書《尼泊爾玩全秘笈》，盡管這本書的大陸版本完全以“中國”的面目出現(xiàn)，沒有一字提到臺灣， 但一看行文風格便知這本書是臺灣作者寫的。在此真心對這兩位女菩薩致謝。 出發(fā)前一天曬裝備， 說明如下：60升背包自重2.2公斤,總重11.5公斤，EBC路上拿出自己背裝相機水壺的小背包，托付給背夫的重量是8.5公斤?？紤]到走EBC本人體力有限， 沒有帶笨重的單反，只帶了兩個傻瓜機，打印機用來現(xiàn)場打印小照片討尼泊爾小盆友的喜歡。事后最滿意的裝備：駱駝全防水登山鞋（740元），天石海子羽絨睡袋（淘寶886元，舒適溫零下4°C--零下11°C,充絨800克，自重1.4公斤），宜家0.5升保暖瓶（29元，看瓶貼屬日本退貨，卻是我用過的水瓶中保溫效果最好的，讓我能在雪山上喝到熱水）。為了保持對外聯(lián)絡(luò)并免去網(wǎng)本的重量，專門買了一個愛瘋4替換原來300元的雙卡山寨手機.因為后來三人放棄了計劃中的CHO LA PASS, 所以雪套冰爪都沒用上。D0 (2月29日） 上海--成都又一次來到這個驢友中轉(zhuǎn)城市，免不了再去逛逛錦里。D1 (3月1日）成都--加德滿都（Kathmandu)950從成都起飛， 1130左右飛越喜馬拉雅山脈。80年代某個夏天曾首次飛越喜馬拉雅， 那時只看到一片赭色的高原， 如同火星表面， 沒有任何生命跡象，也十分震撼， 現(xiàn)在則疑惑當時為什么沒有看到積雪呢？飛臨加都河谷上空加都國際機場， 尼泊爾歡迎你網(wǎng)上招伴集結(jié)的四個人（來自杭州， 嘉興， 漳州）在加都機場外， 一副神采飛揚的樣子， EBC的冰天雪地正等著狠狠地折磨這四個小子。到達塔梅爾區(qū)東口。在所住旅館對門的旅行代理處買了明天去LUKLA的小飛機票（往返205美元），換了足夠的盧比。大街上的尼共競選廣告。外國游客受到尼泊爾武警的嚴密保護：） 自己去尼泊爾旅游局辦理進山證（TIMS)， 每份1600盧比。如果委托旅游代理辦， 每份要2000盧比，但如果你和代理有其他生意可做， 如委托其代辦旅館，機票，團隊游，雇傭向?qū)П撤虻鹊龋?代理也可能向你提供只要1000盧比或10美元的進山證，其中有何奧妙他們自己知道。街上的騎警， 把照片在電視機上放大看才看出騎警是位女性， 正用冷峻的眼神瞟我這位“老外”的鏡頭。人行天橋上的盲人乞丐。穿過加都最熱鬧的傳統(tǒng)集市阿森街（ASON TOL)。 杜邦廣場納拉揚神廟距離這個“苦行僧”的背影十幾米遠按下了快門，不料他卻聽到了“咔嚓”聲立馬轉(zhuǎn)過身朝我走來，“哈哈， 可逮著你了，100盧比！”--看他的表情我猜想他心里是這樣想的，他走近向我討錢，我假裝聽不懂他的話一臉茫然雙手亂揮， 最后不了了之。濕婆和帕爾瓦蒂在他們的神廟上方俯視著蕓蕓眾生。尼泊爾人90%信印度教，濕婆（SHIVA）是三大神祗之一，主管生殖與毀滅， 雖是外形是女的，卻是個男兒身（像佛教的觀音菩薩？），以男性生殖器（LINGGAM)為象征； 帕爾瓦蒂是濕婆的配偶，是喜馬拉雅雪山神女，代表幸福美滿的婚姻，以女性生殖器（YONI)為象征。D2 （3月2日） KATHMANDU--LUKLA (海拔2840)--PHAKDING(2610)--MONJO(2840)加都國內(nèi)機場大廳買的是YETI的機票，坐的是TARA的飛機， 駕駛員是典型尼泊爾美男。登機完畢， 乘客中有不少當?shù)嘏?藏民， 是去轉(zhuǎn)山拜佛的。 第一次坐這樣的小飛機，覺得命都懸在窗外這個黑鐵皮包的螺旋槳上。降落了我們的飛機 盧卡拉山地機場，僅有400米斜坡跑道， 據(jù)稱居世界上最危險的十個機場之首。在機場出口和出發(fā)前在網(wǎng)上約好的兩名向導(dǎo)背夫會面，決定今天和隨后的行程安排。尼泊爾時間早上10：00啟程，從機場邊的小路上山。剛才得到消息, 本月14號尼泊爾AGNI公司的一架小飛機從博克拉（POKHARA)飛往江森（JOMSOM, ABC徒步的一個起點）途中因技術(shù)故障失事撞山， 機上至少17人遇難。無語。 愿逝者安息， 一路走好。難免會想， 同在2012年， 為什么是ABC, 不是EBC?為什么是五月的他們， 不是三月的我們？想起這次旅行前，老同事（曾在空軍中維修飛機）勸我不要去坐小飛機。戶外運動的風險當然比坐在家中大，但是，生命的本質(zhì)，就寓在運動之中啊。 夏爾巴人的孩子， 也許從小就學習這種用頭頂承重的負荷方式了。1400到PHAKDING午餐， 1710到MONJO投宿。我們的向?qū)Вㄗ螅┖捅撤颍ㄓ?），向?qū)?英語會話， 書寫也很漂亮，背夫是他徒弟，看上去18歲都不到吧。 D3 MONJO(2840)—NAMCHE (3440)薩加馬塔國家公園門口。 在這里查驗進山證和購買門票（每人1000盧比）。珠穆朗瑪峰（藏語， 圣女峰）在尼泊爾語中為薩加馬塔峰（SAGARMATHA）,西方人則習慣稱埃佛勒斯特峰（MOUNT. EVEREST）， 是為了紀念英國統(tǒng)治印度和尼泊爾時，負責測量喜馬拉雅山脈的印度測量局局長George Everest。辦公室內(nèi)記載每年每月進山人數(shù)的表牌，2012年3月還是空白。路遇一位在事故中失去一條胳膊的夏爾巴向?qū)?，他仍在繼續(xù)他的職業(yè)。 據(jù)說今天的路陡升600米比較費勁， 結(jié)果卻沒有感覺， 上午8：00出發(fā)， 中午1230即到目的地NAMCHE。下午到市場上去購物，買了氣罐， 礦泉水，夏爾巴帽等等。投宿HOTEL TIBET.旅館店堂里紀念1953年新西蘭人希拉里和他的夏爾巴向?qū)еZ爾蓋首次登上珠峰的的招貼。小時候（1956年）我在上海黃陂路南京路口（現(xiàn)上海美術(shù)館）看過一個《印度攝影展覽會》，里面有首次登上珠峰的諾爾蓋的照片，所以一直以為首次登上珠峰的是個印度人。 D4NAMCHE(3440)--TENGBOCHE(3860)上午10：00從NAMCHE 出發(fā)據(jù)向導(dǎo)說這座塔是紀念首次登上珠峰的夏爾巴人諾爾蓋的。下午1720在一片陰霾中到達TENGBOCHE的客棧 D5TENGBOCHE(3860)--DINGBOCHE(4410)早上起來掛在室內(nèi)的毛巾成了冰棍，說明室溫在零度左右，自己的睡袋加客棧的一條毯子，基本可以睡得比較暖和。早餐。 NAMCHE以上客棧的房價是100盧比/人，早中晚餐的價格基本上是300-450盧比一餐，熱水300盧比/一熱水瓶，牦牛奶400盧比/一熱水瓶，充電300盧比/一次。 牦牛所背貨物的外包裝是“浙江溫嶺工業(yè)園區(qū)”的飼料袋。今天是上午820出發(fā)， 下午1550到DINGBOCHED6DINGBOCHE （4410）今天在DINGBOCHE停留一天，適應(yīng)海拔?？蜅５晏美锱_灣驢友的帖子。曬鞋，燒水泡方便面。夕陽下的 AMA DABLAM 峰（海拔6858米）D7DINGBOCHE (4410)--LOBUCHE（4940）早餐后在客棧店堂里和房東合影，山上所有的店堂都是同一格局，屋中央通常有個火爐，四周墻邊連上約70公分寬50公分高的坐臺，上鋪毛氈， 再放一圈餐桌，白天可當餐廳，晚間遇旺季客人爆滿時可讓客人睡在坐臺上。柜臺上貼了告示提醒健行者在此購買巧克力瓶裝水等物資， 再上去越高越貴。 能和心愛的人一起神游喜馬拉雅山真是人生莫大的快樂啊， 后面是KANGTEGA峰（6778米） 早上7：50出發(fā)，1020到TUKLA午餐，各國登山隊健行者都習慣事先做好不干膠LOGO一路留名，俺們下次也要學這一招。這次只能用隨身帶的紅色嘜頭筆留名（見上方）。爬坡上了這個埡口是一片開闊地，這里有許多在山難中殞命的夏爾巴人和各國登山者的靈塔。 夏爾巴人用石塊壘的靈塔。這個德州達拉斯的小伙子25歲就沒了， 不知是在雪山?jīng)_頂中遇難還是在高反中一睡不起了。親屬的銘文是“愿他的靈魂在此永生，我們愛你， 我們想你”。 在溫暖的陽光下看著，讀著，淚水忽然涌上了眼眶。 缺氧，大腦有點迷糊，在平坦的開闊地，EBC的溫和陽光令人感到舒服，空氣中好像有一種甜蜜的意味，體力消耗似到極限，幾乎想就地躺下不再起來， 怎么樣？像很多高反患者那樣，睡下去就不起來了如何？把所有的煩惱一下全部扔在身后，這樣的離開世界也未嘗不好啊。親歷過許多長輩和同輩的去世，病人躺在醫(yī)院病床上，圍著一大堆心思各異的親友，身上插滿管子，連著生命監(jiān)護儀，用各種藥物維持血壓， 心率，血氧飽和度等各項指，延長瀕死者的生命，最后再嘗試用大電極刺激心臟復(fù)蘇 - - 難道這樣的死就好么？人的血液里，或多或少流動著早先荒野上群居動物的基因，那些喜歡親近大自然的登山者探險家的生死觀，肯定會和一般人有差別啊。 我們還在向LOBUCHE靠攏， 這位法國大哥已經(jīng)從EBC下來了，這是我見到的最嬉皮士的“驢友”，腳蹬硬底大皮鞋， 身穿一件到處是破洞的皮大衣，用一根帶子背著一個SACK (單口帆布袋， 或曰小偷越貨用的大袋子），沒有帽子圍巾， 沒有登山杖， 沒有開麥拉，可令所有講究名牌的“裝備控”驢友目瞪口呆 - - - - 前方左面是PUMO RI (7165米）， 右面是LINGTREN (6749米）。下午1510到LOBUCHE, 今天走的路在地圖上量得的直線距離是9公里，但實際上上下下的距離是多少， 就不清楚了。空中不時響起救援直升機的聲音，把嚴重的高反病人送往加德滿都救治，一次救助飛行需5000-6000美元。出發(fā)前買過人民幣165元的美亞保險，一旦出險只要報保單號就可以得到先行救助，但這樣的飛行享受還是不要為好。([]
電影追捕1978完整國語版免費中文版
林俊冰一直在關(guān)注，一直在潛水，一直惦記著什么時候能回報下社會。。。先上幾張圖片，看看夠不夠毒。。。 行程：Day01（0919）：上海－拉薩Day02（0920）：拉薩－定日Day03（0921）：定日－吉?。櫪?Day04（0922）：聶拉木－樟木－聶拉木Day05（0923）：聶拉木－希峰營地（徒步&露營）Day06（0924）：營地－希夏邦馬大本營－營地（徒步&;露營）Day07（0925）：營地－聶拉木－老定日（徒步）Day08（0926）：老定日－曲當鄉(xiāng)Day09（0927）：曲當鄉(xiāng)優(yōu)帕村－曉烏措營地（徒步&露營）Day10（0928）：曉烏措營地－卓湘營地（徒步&露營）Day11（0929）：卓湘營地－熱嘎營地（徒步&露營）Day12（0930）：熱嘎營地－白當營地（徒步&露營）Day13（1001）：白當營地－珠峰東坡大本營－熱嘎營地（徒步&露營）Day14（1002）：熱嘎營地－措學仁瑪營地（徒步&露營）Day15（1003）：措學仁瑪營地－輪珠林村－曲當鄉(xiāng)（徒步）Day16（1004）：曲當鄉(xiāng)－江孜Day17（1005）：江孜－多慶措－江孜Day18（1006）：江孜－拉薩Day19（1007）：拉薩Day20（1008）：拉薩－上海 這基本上會是一個以圖片為主的連環(huán)畫形式的游記。。。詳細游記攻略請參閱隊友英子在磨房的帖子：https//www.doyouhike.net/forum/backpacking/1000424,0,0,1.html，那兒事無巨細。([]
成年人男女之間的游戲規(guī)則
陳正康Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個免責聲明：1。楊同學不認識俺，也沒有授權(quán)俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時終止；2。俺沒有商業(yè)目的，譯版版權(quán)歸楊同學，俺啥也不要，也不承擔法律責任；3。沒有楊同學授權(quán)，不敢擅自發(fā)在國外網(wǎng)站，發(fā)在原帖處，榮譽歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉(zhuǎn)貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復(fù)了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機會一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
歡迎來到精靈之森動漫在線觀看ova
伍明輝這段旅行發(fā)生在2009年9月底。每次聽到馬丘比丘都會聯(lián)想到宮崎駿筆下的《天空之城》。因為馬丘比丘（Machu Picchu）也像是一座云中的城堡，海拔2430米。和宮崎駿的Laputa一樣，她神秘的隱藏了幾百年，只在當?shù)厝?的傳說中提到。直到1911年才被美國耶魯大學的一位歷史學家發(fā)現(xiàn)，從而把她帶到了西方人的眼中。今天，馬丘比丘是南美洲最重要的考古發(fā)掘中心，也是秘魯最受歡迎的旅游景點，每天接待來自世界各地的朝圣者。2007年馬丘比丘被評為新世界7大奇跡之一。讓我?guī)?著你們從古印加帝國的首都庫斯科（Cuzco）出發(fā)，沿著安第斯山脈中的印加古道，走向神秘的“失落的印加城市”馬丘比丘。 這次的籌備工作做了很久。秘魯政府為了保護古跡，限制每天進入印加古道的人數(shù)。所以得提前3個月通過網(wǎng)上在一家當?shù)氐南驅(qū)Ч绢A(yù)定報名，提前保留進山的許可證。和我同行的是我們登山野營圈的一個朋友，朱哥。其實這次是我把他忽悠來的。我們的飛機先到秘魯首都利馬，到的時候是凌晨4點多。然后入關(guān)之后轉(zhuǎn)秘魯國內(nèi)的飛機去庫斯科（Cuzco）。庫斯科是秘魯西南部的一座海拔3399米的城市，也是古印加帝國的首都。向?qū)Ч疽笪覀儽仨氃谶M入印加古道之前提前3天入住庫斯科，這樣可以讓身體逐漸適應(yīng)高海拔的環(huán)境。剛下飛機，突然聽見音樂聲大作。神馬情況？只見在庫斯科的機場大廳里，一群人穿著當?shù)氐拿褡宸b跳起舞來。然后有兩個mm來給我們脖子上戴花環(huán)。不會是專門為了歡迎我們吧？后來知道是當地旅游局為了歡迎游客搞的。每來一趟班機就跳一場。嘿嘿，雖然不是給我們的專場，但是這熱情讓我本來困的不行的大腦又興奮起來。我們?nèi)胱〉?旅館是一個家庭客棧。是我在網(wǎng)上事先訂好的。來了之后，發(fā)現(xiàn)是個意外的驚喜。原來這個客棧是一個小院別墅改裝的。里面的環(huán)境非常別致。我們的房間在二樓，從我們的陽臺上能看到古城庫斯科的全景。 小院的布置非常養(yǎng)眼。有花花草草，別致的小桌?？蜅＠镉凶约?的廚房，餐廳，提供早餐。平時餐廳就是我們的會所，一邊喝著可卡Coca樹葉泡的茶，一邊和店家聊著天。店主人是個德國老頭Hinez，退休之后就搬到了這里來。庫斯科基本上沒有什么工業(yè)，全靠旅游業(yè)和農(nóng)業(yè)，高原的空氣沒有被污染。安頓停當，決定出去覓食。天空中下著毛毛雨，我們走在石頭鋪的街上。 找到一家小餐館。看上去很別致。女招待在給朱哥介紹秘魯?shù)耐炼?。原來這里是土豆的發(fā)源地，有300多個品種。我餓極了。湯一上來就開喝。這是Alpaca肉做的湯。哈哈，待會兒告訴你們這是神馬動物！他家的小面包很好吃。秘訣就是用土制的烤爐來烤面包。請看！噠噠... 庫斯科的街上有很多富有特色的小店。很有歷史留下的韻味。這些巨石壘砌的墻基透露了昔日帝國首都的輝煌。每塊巨石之間結(jié)合緊密，幾乎沒有縫隙。庫斯科最輝煌的時候是15世紀，在16世紀初1533年西班牙人入侵之前達到巔峰。當時的印加文化有自己的語言，但是沒有文字。印加人高超的建筑術(shù)就像他們神秘的文化一樣在歷史的長河中失傳了。至今無人知道這些巨石是從哪里采來的，墻基是如何建造的。 市中心的中央廣場Plaza de Armas旁邊有一個天主教大教堂，是15世紀西班牙人入侵之后建造的。用的石頭是把印加人的宗教建筑搗毀之后搬過來的。去向?qū)Ч緢?道交完錢之后，決定找一家好點的餐館嘗嘗當?shù)氐拿?菜，烤荷蘭豬！對面的這位帥哥的眼神怪怪的?？赡苁菦]見過多少中國人吧。這就是著名的烤荷蘭豬！吃完之后有點失望，皮有點硬，肉挺少的。 在海拔3399米睡了一晚上之后感覺好多了。第二天在庫斯科繼續(xù)適應(yīng)高原，參觀庫斯科附近的海拔3701米的薩克塞華曼（Sacsayhuaman）遺址，一個由古代克立人在1100年用巨石修建的偉大建筑。在印加文明來到庫斯科之前，克立人是這里的居民。每個石頭之間沒有水泥或泥漿來粘結(jié)，只靠自然的結(jié)合。據(jù)猜測這是一座軍事城堡，但是已經(jīng)無從考證。當?shù)貙?dǎo)游說如果你不知道怎么發(fā)音，就念Sexy Woman。哈哈，這下我記住了！很難想象這些大石頭就這樣，靠著互相之間的支撐挺過了900年。 晚上去了一家很有特色的當?shù)?小餐館。當?shù)厝说闹魇?中主要是土豆，大米。肉類包括牛肉，Alpaca，魚等。烤荷蘭豬只有在節(jié)日的時候吃。招待我們的是一個當?shù)氐?小伙子，英文名字叫Albert，真名我忘了?，F(xiàn)在庫斯科的居民由麥士蒂索人－殖民時代外來歐洲人和本地人的混血后代，和當地的安第斯山民組成。真正的印加人隨著印加文化的消亡也被同化絕跡了。Albert的祖先是麥士蒂索人。秘魯和很多南美國家一樣受殖民時代的影響，她的官方語言是西班牙語。Albert在荷蘭來的義工開的學校里學了英語，能跟我們交流。他聽說我們是中國人，非常興奮！Albert邀請我們從馬丘比丘回來后到他的店里來慶祝。 進山前的最后一天我們?nèi)チ水數(shù)氐囊粋€集市。路上停車休息的時候發(fā)現(xiàn)了這種神馬??！對，就是咱們網(wǎng)民稱之為草泥horse的神獸！這回見到神獸本尊了！其實人家有大名的，左邊毛短的叫Llama，馴化后用來當運輸工具。（騾子？）中間毛長可愛超萌的叫Alpaca，貢獻的是他們身上的毛和肉。他們都是羊駝的一種。無辜的羊駝們，被我們的網(wǎng)民調(diào)侃。到了集市自然是一通轉(zhuǎn)悠。兩個大老爺們兒逛這里其實很無聊的。MM們應(yīng)該會很喜歡，因為有很多精美的南美和秘魯風格的小飾品。哈哈，老爺們兒還是找到了他們喜歡的東西。這種當?shù)?的玉米及其美味，粒兒大汁多很嫩。但是賣相不太好看，攤主往上面澆了一砣綠色的稀糊糊的醬。好了打住，你懂的。但是醬的味道很好！朱哥已經(jīng)迫不及待了！ 我們當天晚上沒有回庫斯科，就在印加古道入口外扎營。向導(dǎo)公司提供了帳篷并選好了營地。我們的隊伍到齊了。一共是15個徒步者，2個向?qū)В?20個協(xié)作加廚師。一起晚餐時大家開始互相介紹認識。一晚上安然無事。醒來看到早晨的陽光照在安第斯山脈的雪峰上，山尖在霧氣里時隱時現(xiàn)，煞是壯觀！這就是印加古道入口的牌子。我們的徒步隊伍包括2個中國人，5個美國人，2個匈牙利人，2個新加坡人，2個澳大利亞人，1個英國人，1個來自百慕大。在這里就不一一贅述了。我在路上慢慢介紹。在入口處登記，每個人都要對護照號。如果沒有預(yù)定，對不起，請回吧。過了橋就是印加古道了。一共是4天的徒步穿越，期間要翻過海拔4200米的隘口。此時的我興奮無比，馬丘比丘，我來啦！一眾人等登記完畢，向著遙遠的群山進發(fā)。我們的向?qū)?一邊走一邊給我們講解印加古道的歷史。很敬業(yè)！另一個隊伍的協(xié)作在我們后面。向?qū)?讓我們給他們讓路，這些協(xié)作雖然背了這么多東西，但是任然行走如飛！我們的協(xié)作早走在前面去了！在一個路邊小店休息?？蓯鄣?安第斯小孩，吃著我們送他的薯片。路上的第一天很輕松。大家在吃午飯的帳篷里有說有笑。朱哥要試試協(xié)作的自制的背包。他其實有點像當?shù)厝耍沂?指黑的程度。第一天很輕松，我們很快到了過夜的地方。協(xié)作已經(jīng)把營地收拾好，我們就在附近玩咯！我發(fā)現(xiàn)2009年的我那時候是個胖紙，還帶個小紅帽子。 同隊的澳大利亞女孩Lilly-這里稱呼她小莉，要給大家照合影。小莉很會搞怪，結(jié)果把大家逗樂，被大家反拍！她曾經(jīng)是澳大利亞女子手球隊的成員。手球在她那里是沒人看的運動，找不到贊助。她練手球純粹是自己的愛好。因為隊里沒錢，澳大利亞也沒有體育總局這樣的干爹，所以沒能來2008年的北京奧運會。第二天早上起來是個好天。今天的路程很艱苦，要翻越4215米的隘口，就是地圖上最高的那點。藍藍的天空飄白云啊... 山上的天氣說變就變！一下子來了一片云，居然下起了小雨。向?qū)ё屛?們幾個走的快的先行，到了隘口之后等著后隊。我，同隊的新加坡夫婦-Elaine愛玲和Rhys銳思，和美國人David大偉，先到了。之后是大偉的老婆Rachel瑞秋。瑞秋是個護士，大偉是個律師。大偉和瑞秋住在北加州舊金山北邊的一個小鎮(zhèn)上。喜歡搞怪的小莉。這是她的經(jīng)典表情。 小莉的男盆友Tim提姆。左邊是我們的主向?qū)Ъ骊犻LJuvenal胡文諾-胡哥。兩個最年輕的協(xié)作，一個19，一個20，忘了他們名字了。走在前面的穿棕色沖鋒衣帶黃色頭巾的是來自紐約大都市的女孩Alison阿貍。阿貍29歲，也是個律師。 來自加州首府沙加緬度的Gloria-葛姐。葛姐在加州政府工作。和當時加州州長阿諾施瓦辛格在一層樓里辦公。來自匈牙利的帥鍋甲-Laszlo拉茲。2008年受金融危機影響沒了工作，干脆出來滿世界玩。背著各種攝影器材的朱哥。慚愧，俺在2009年是拿著一個卡片機闖天下。其實現(xiàn)在還是卡片。紅衣帥鍋是來自英國的Stafford-史大福，在紐約市工作。旁邊的是他的未婚妻Laura勞拉，來自百慕大。勞拉的父母是英國人，60年代移民到了百慕大。隘口上的合影！胡哥左邊的是來自新加坡的小兩口愛玲和銳思。他們倆都是干律師的。我們這撥人里律師特別多。在隘口上我們?nèi)硕荚?云里，周圍霧蒙蒙的。胡哥怕變天，催促我們立刻往下走。 大家知道最難的路段已經(jīng)被我們征服了，心情輕松得下撤去今晚的營地。左起：大偉，葛姐，阿貍，拉茲，瑞秋，匈牙利帥鍋乙-忘了名字了。別看大偉的職業(yè)是個律師，平時自己訓(xùn)練馬拉松和鐵人三項。在干律師之前，和朋友一起搞了幾年樂隊。帥鍋乙想不起來是干嘛的了。第三天早上大霧彌漫。我們隊旁邊是一群初中生。胡哥說學校組織他們來走印加古道，相當于秘魯?shù)膼蹏?義教育。樹梢上凝聚的水滴，是那么的晶瑩透徹！ 在霧中來到一座古堡。胡哥讓我們稍作休息。葛姐是個了不起的女性。50多歲了，有兩個孩子，最大的已經(jīng)19歲。她自己出來走，是我們隊里唯一的獨行俠。來秘魯之前已經(jīng)在墨西哥玩了倆禮拜。葛姐是墨西哥后裔，所以會說西班牙語。多年前父母是非法移民來到加州干農(nóng)活。葛姐從小吃苦，長大之后考上斯坦福大學。畢業(yè)后立志于公共服務(wù)，在加州州政府工作。葛姐告訴我州長阿諾喜歡在辦公樓里抽雪茄，搞得空氣很不好。他們就用德文寫了一堆“此處禁止抽煙”的傳單貼在樓道里。霧中的印加古堡更增添了神秘感。古堡的下面是一個前哨，相當于咱們中國古城建筑里的衛(wèi)城。我們的向?qū)?胡哥是當?shù)厝?。在庫斯卡一帶有10多年的向?qū)Ы?jīng)驗。胡哥一路上給我們講解印加文化和歷史。每個向?qū)П仨氃诿佤斒锥?利馬的大學里學習一年，通過考試之后才能拿到上崗證。霧氣慢慢的散開。云層就在我們頭頂上。 如此美景，大家紛紛擺pose，到此一游。小莉還是用她的經(jīng)典表情。難道這是澳洲女孩們的“剪刀手”？忘了這張是神馬情況了。好像是朱哥讓我擺拍。山谷中間白色的就是溫泉鎮(zhèn)。我們將在第四天下午從馬丘比丘下到溫泉鎮(zhèn)，然后坐火車回到庫斯科。一路上看到的古堡越來越多，我們知道離神秘的馬丘比丘不遠了。下山的路上碰到一段很難走的地方。石頭臺階又陡峭，又滑。MM們都非常小心。銳思不管他老婆，只管在底下給她照相。愛玲也不抱怨。好像老外女人都挺獨立的。終于大家都安全的走下來了。胡哥說我們這個隊真是很強。對向?qū)]有太多的依賴性。 又見更多的古堡。看來離皇上的行宮不遠了。動次，打次，動次，打次，彎彎的河水從天上來，流向那萬紫千紅一片海。。。哎，不對，2009年的時候還沒有神曲呢！哥又穿越了。。。山谷里的河是烏魯邦巴河，孕育了曾經(jīng)輝煌的印加文明。我和胡哥在這安第斯山脈中合影一張。 第三天的晚餐是廚師給我們做的最后一頓飯。他特意給我們做了個蛋糕。上面的字“Feliz Viaje"是西班牙語旅途愉快的意思。中間的目光呆滯的女孩是Florina-小佛mm，來自紐約市，阿貍的同事，也是個律師。出生在烏克蘭，很小的時候隨父母來到美國。平時喜歡跑馬拉松。這幾天由于高反，一直走在隊伍的最后，但是也堅持下來了。胡哥給我們下了通知，明天早上要起個大早，趕在日出之前到達Sun Gate -太陽門，俯視被初升的陽光慢慢照亮的馬丘比丘。和廚師協(xié)作告別之后，趕緊洗洗睡了。 第四天早上全隊不到5點就起了。天還沒亮，只有朦朦的星光。在去Sun Gate太陽門的路上，看到日出前的晨光。胡哥催促大家加快步伐。印加人把太陽門修建在一個山脊上。如果天氣晴朗，從那里可以俯視到馬丘比丘的全景。我們到達時，太陽正在從我們背后的群山之中升起，輕輕地掀起馬丘比丘神秘的面紗。我隊伍一眾人等開始準備好拍照。噠噠。。。晨光下的馬丘比丘！有點日照金山的感覺?？上?當時只有一個卡片，沒法完美得帶回那壯觀的瞬間。遠處安第斯山脈中的一座雪峰在云層中時隱時現(xiàn)。胡哥開始催促我們抓緊時間。從太陽門下到馬丘比丘還有2個小時路程。我趕緊擺個pose，讓朱哥抓了一張。隊長發(fā)話了，“Come on！Let's go！” 快點！大家出發(fā)了！大家可能會想，這么顯眼的建筑怎么會隱藏這么久沒被發(fā)現(xiàn)呢？我當時也有這個疑問。胡哥告訴我，馬丘比丘在1911年之前被茂密的植被覆蓋著，而且經(jīng)常大霧籠罩。除了當?shù)?山民，外來的人很難察覺到在這樣的崇山峻嶺中還有一個古老的城市。我們隊今早能看到晨光下的馬丘比丘，是很幸運的。很多時候山上有霧或者下雨。上傳網(wǎng)上的兩張1911年拍的馬丘比丘照片，可以看到樹木和藤條把這座古城包裹了起來。我越來越覺得馬丘比丘和宮崎駿筆下的天空之城有很多相似之處。經(jīng)過4天的跋涉，我們終于到了！有經(jīng)驗的胡哥給我們挑了一個好地方。說是很多明信片就是在這個地方拍的。This is the postcard spot! 于是大家紛紛合影，擺pose！胡哥擺了個金剛的pose。我擺了個山寨阿諾的pose。 胡哥是個敬業(yè)的好向?qū)В?而且知識豐富。來張合影吧。真是天公作美。我們是很幸運的一隊！看到馬丘比丘背后的那個山峰了嗎？她叫Wayna Picchu 瓦納比丘，比馬丘比丘高360米。我和朱哥商量好了要爬到那上面去。([]
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