《狼性總裁小小妻》
謝泰平 49643萬字 61824人讀過 連載
第一篇T27次開往拉薩 很多年前，我便開始期待一次這樣的旅行，拋開所有的羈絆，一個人去一個很遠(yuǎn)的地方。在決心出發(fā)的那一刻所有的困難都已成為過去，身體和靈魂終于一起走在路上。 火車慢慢開動的時候，我差點(diǎn)忘記了時間和空間，像是在做夢又以為是時光倒流了。那么多心情不停地更換那么多種畫面不停的在腦中盤旋。我試著把頭抬的更高，高到眼眶里的淚水無法落下來，只是留給眼睛一片潮濕和璀璨。我攤開手想觸摸窗外呼嘯而過的風(fēng)可是再怎么努力我仍舊無法觸及他的痕跡，就像我再怎樣哭泣也喚不回種種過去。原來遺忘并不止表面的決絕和優(yōu)雅，更多的還是實(shí)則的冷酷和強(qiáng)悍，我經(jīng)過的那些青春已經(jīng)形成一小段人生。我所向往的還是孤獨(dú)，我所畏懼的仍是孤獨(dú)。人本來就是一個復(fù)雜的結(jié)構(gòu)，而思緒更是一個矛盾體。很多人都有這樣的情緒，得不到的拼命想要，得到后又想要扔掉。這便是我們單純又幼稚的青春，而我碰巧經(jīng)過。很多張面孔在眼前經(jīng)過，愛或不愛，想念或厭倦，陌生或熟悉。在火車抵達(dá)的那一刻，所有的一切都該有個了結(jié)，而后又重新吐出另一片遙遙無期的路程。 湛藍(lán)的天空，行走的步伐，步入旅途，選擇性的遺忘原來是為了讓你記住更多的東西。我記得那條街、那個公交站、可愛的旺財、一飲而盡的啤酒、一手掌的樹葉，自以為的哆嗦、反應(yīng)遲鈍的豬、那面鏡子，紅了的眼眶。記得每一道食物的味道、每一種風(fēng)景的顏色，每一個瞬間的感動。那時候便覺得時間就是最好的良藥，當(dāng)你覺的力不從心的時候，莫如把一切都交付給它，他會讓你把該忘記得都忘記，讓你漫不經(jīng)心的從一個故事走進(jìn)另一個故事。 人有時候需要的東西極少，滿眼的黃沙即可。天空藍(lán)的眩暈，極不真實(shí)，卻讓我想起信仰來。想起小時候總是覺得時間過的太緩慢，總在期待長大，至少可以站在樹下夠著那片嫩綠，可以親歷一次花開的過程，可是真的長大了，卻覺得流年似水，只消一個轉(zhuǎn)身便告別了那個純真多夢的年代，彷佛一夜間便可滿頭白發(fā)，那也可將一生的光陰燃燒殆盡。一生一世聽上去多么漫長，其實(shí)回首轉(zhuǎn)瞬即逝。 每一次變故，都會是人生的一個轉(zhuǎn)彎。這一生總會有那么一些人，是你過河必須投下的石子，是你取暖煮茗必須的薪火，是你夜歸照明的路燈，而后這些人都將成為過客，連同自己有一天一同交還給歲月，那時候孤影萍蹤又將消失在哪里？ 那一生遭遇的無數(shù)次相逢里，有的人是你看過了就忘記的風(fēng)景，有的人早已在你心底生根抽芽，那些我們無法詮釋的都?xì)w結(jié)給了宿命，無法分清的感覺便成了緣分，緣分深淺，早就分曉。之后仍你我如何修行也無法改變初始的模樣。 人與人之間的聚散悲喜，在平日里細(xì)碎微瑣，不過是日常生活里的一部分。但在路途上卻不同，他們會被還原成最初的模樣，成為內(nèi)心里最珍貴的點(diǎn)滴，成列在時光深處，供生命紀(jì)念支撐未來的自己。對你的一字一句我都堅信不移，因這世上有了一個你我方才成了我。與這世上任何一個男子都有細(xì)微差別的你，溫柔有時，暴烈有時，并以為，孤獨(dú)是宿命！于是我開始擔(dān)心，擔(dān)心自己的身體有朝一日會在這庸碌的生活里磨成一艘老舊的木船，沒有夢想沒有遠(yuǎn)方甚至沒有兒女情長，那樣的話真是可怕。我依然相信你的話，可是親愛的，你不在。 若問我旅行的意義我肯定答不上來，那是屬于人生的課，能夠回答人生的是時年和歲月以及那些在路上的感知和領(lǐng)悟，而在旅行之前誰也不知道會有怎樣的震撼和深刻。這便是旅行最令人著迷的好。許巍，唱《旅行》。陣陣晚風(fēng)吹動著松濤/吹響這風(fēng)鈴聲如天籟/站在這城市的寂靜處/讓一切喧囂走遠(yuǎn)/只有青山藏在白云間/蝴蝶自由穿行在清澗/看那晚霞盛開在天邊/有一群向西歸鳥，誰畫出這天地又畫下我和你/讓我們的世界絢麗多彩/誰讓我們哭泣又給我們驚喜/讓我們就這樣相愛相遇/總是要說再見相聚又分離/總是走在漫長的路上。 下一次想要啟程的心，也許在熙熙攘攘的人群中。 珠峰我 來 了----2013.4.21--5.14我站在珠穆朗瑪?shù)?面前風(fēng)中是我 雪中是我燦爛的陽光下依然是我隨心隨性靜是我 動是我自然而然我有一顆癡迷的心始終把你想念哪怕你高不可攀我有一雙癡迷的眼始終看著你哪怕你冷若冰霜茫茫山野萬歲奇冰可有生靈撥動心弦？ 十幾年如一段簡單的旅程，時光流轉(zhuǎn)消逝，我回頭看看自己，才發(fā)現(xiàn)我是個行走在路上，尋找路的人 。自然的山與心中的山只有在那一瞬間契合，才能成為真正的風(fēng)景，那么，撩開珠峰的神秘面紗，我想，它再也不會從我的心頭抹去，就像我苦苦尋覓多年的愛人。。。。。 西藏高原號稱世界最高高原，8000米以上的山峰11座，世界第一高峰——珠穆朗瑪峰就在中尼邊界上，號稱世界第三極。難怪世界登山健將無不以到西藏來登山為榮，高原5000米以上的高俊山峰，大都終年積雪，到處是高峰兀立，寒光流瀉，山舞銀蛇，蔚為壯觀。神奇而雄偉的西藏之山其實(shí)也并不乏淳樸而堅毅勇猛的個性，西藏的山不似內(nèi)地山那般清秀內(nèi)蘊(yùn)，它山石嶙嶙，沉默不語，但棱角鮮明，直率坦蕩，自有其獨(dú)特的生命，猶如藏民族那純樸善良、勇敢堅毅的性格。由此我們會想到，特殊的生存環(huán)境是一個民族性格形成的外在條件和基礎(chǔ)，生活在雪域高原的藏族人民長期處于高寒缺氧的環(huán)境中，他們造就了與生命局限抗?fàn)?的大無畏氣概，高原般粗獷的性格、雄鷹般勇猛的精神、大山般豁達(dá)的胸懷，人在高原，望著海洋般湛藍(lán)的天空與潔白的云朵，草原上艷麗的鮮花與嫩綠的青草，還有那封凍的冰山與銀裝素裹的雪山。。。。。。一種山一樣崇高的神圣精神境界會油然而生，激蕩全身。 登泰山而小天下，登珠峰而小蒼穹！ 珠穆朗瑪峰，只要能一見她的容顏，即便是路途遙遙，山高水深，也不會停住前來拜見的凡塵之子們的腳步。 聽藏民車贊說：珠峰能如此露出真容實(shí)屬罕見，可見我們的人品有多好啊，呵呵 有人說：生命，是用來行走的；靈魂，是用來歌唱的。我說生命，是用來得瑟的。 我個人超級喜歡這張片子，他倆也說好，我們?nèi)齻€就像正在降落的跳傘隊員，呵呵，不對，是無傘速降。 甘肅蘭州的米薩，我們都叫他披薩，呵呵，超強(qiáng)的體力，而且年輕，英語說得那是老地道了，一路上只要遇到老外，他都會展示出他那一口地道的美式英語，羨煞我們了，此處走光。。。 此時的珠峰，美得令人目眩、陶醉 又是這個大包，還有我的七仔藏族小女孩，一雙天真無邪的大眼睛窗外廣漠無際的荒原(
最新章節(jié)： 第521章 凱迪拉克 （ 2024-12-15 09:15:21）
更新時間： 2024-12-15 03:45:48
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劉嘉慧(本帖所有水下照片版權(quán)為豬娃蛋仔所有，獨(dú)發(fā)8264，請勿轉(zhuǎn)載?。? 在印度尼西亞尼 蘇拉威西島的北角有一個著名的“海洋國家公園”， 叫本娜肯國家公園 （Bunaken National Park）。 相信潛水愛好者對“珊瑚三角帶”一定很熟悉，而本娜肯就在珊瑚三角區(qū)域的中心*。*（珊瑚三角帶：由馬來西亞，印度尼西亞，巴布亞新幾內(nèi)亞，菲律賓，所羅門群島，東帝汶所組成的海洋區(qū)域。 它被稱為 “海洋里的亞馬遜”，占據(jù)了五百七十萬平方公里的海域，是全球海洋生物物種的中心。在這里有超過3000種的魚類，500多種珊瑚，6大種海龜。） 本娜肯國家公園有超過390種珊瑚，這也提供了很多魚類，貝類，爬行類，海洋哺乳類和軟體動物棲息地。它包含900平方公里的海域，其中本娜肯島就是我們這次潛水的主要目的地。除了本娜肯島，我們這次也去了藍(lán)碧海峽 （Lembeh Straits）玩垃圾潛水 （Muck Diving）,但是運(yùn)氣不好沒有找到擬態(tài)章魚，沒關(guān)系以后還可以再去。 因?yàn)轳R來西亞，泰國，菲律賓目前都屬于雨季，陽光不充足，也因?yàn)樾【幪?立獨(dú)行的個性，（別人去的地方我偏不去），所以詩巴丹，海豚灣，斯米蘭，仙本娜可以以后再去。 自從今年初從書里認(rèn)識了這個潛水圣地，小編可謂做足了準(zhǔn)備：在新加坡湊齊了一身合適的潛水裝備，還托朋友在日本專門買了佳能5D MARK III的SEA&SEA防水殼和照明配件；2個月前就買了機(jī)票，聯(lián)系當(dāng)?shù)氐臐撍?中心，預(yù)定了酒店的房間，一定要做到萬無一失。 這10天的潛水帶給我無限的樂趣，“和海龜一起潛行，從扳機(jī)魚群中穿過，智斗八爪小章，水深40米沉船內(nèi)尋寶，藍(lán)碧海峽搜尋小生物，鼻腔血管爆裂”， 最后美景證明了一切都是值得的。 為了方便大家閱讀，小編把此帖分成了3部分：裝備篇；行程篇，攝影篇（珊瑚和魚類科普）。1. 行程篇 ：https//bbs.8264.com/forum-redirect-goto-findpost-ptid-1884010-pid-35895318.html2. 裝備篇 ：https//bbs.8264.com/forum-redirect-goto-findpost-ptid-1884010-pid-35951243.html3. 攝影篇 ：https//bbs.8264.com/forum-redirect-goto-findpost-ptid-1884010-pid-35964226.html行程篇：1 - 航班，機(jī)場，證信息 2 - 酒店，潛水中心信息 3 - 潛水準(zhǔn)備和須知 4 - 本娜肯潛點(diǎn)特色介紹 5 - 藍(lán)碧海峽潛點(diǎn)特色介紹 6 - 高地一日游 （火山 和 內(nèi)陸湖） 7 - 離境 及 潛水總結(jié)第一天當(dāng)然是坐飛機(jī)了，雖說印尼 Manado （萬鴉老/美娜多） 屬于東南亞北半球，但是飛行距離還是很長，差不多9000公里左右。小編選擇的是新加坡航空公司的班機(jī)，從北京飛到新加坡樟宜機(jī)場，然后轉(zhuǎn)機(jī)乘坐SILK AIR航空飛到美娜多，飛行時間一共是9個半小時。大家也可選擇乘坐印尼鷹航，相對來講會比較便宜，但是必須從雅加達(dá)轉(zhuǎn)機(jī)，比較耽誤時間。印尼是落地證，只要你的護(hù)照不是白本，幾乎不可能拒。證費(fèi)25美金，有效期30天。 美娜多的 Sam Ratulangi 國際機(jī)場不大，辦理證，入關(guān)，提取行李用不了多久，但是入關(guān)時需要按手印提取指紋，只要從容地走程序，一切都不成問。（小編是第2次去印尼了，所以護(hù)照和指紋以留記錄，就更方便了）。（圖片來自網(wǎng)絡(luò)）（圖片來自網(wǎng)絡(luò)）走出機(jī)場立刻就能看到司機(jī)舉著我的姓名牌，握手寒暄之后，把行李搬上車就開始往酒店出發(fā)了。機(jī)場距離酒店大概有50分鐘車程，小編這次選擇的酒店和潛水中心不在市區(qū)，而是在西北角的WORI 區(qū)，能隔海遙望Bunaken本娜肯島, Manado Tua美娜多二號島 和 Siladen 西拉丹島。來到酒店，沒想到正趕上大裝修，酒店大堂正在吊燈和添加內(nèi)飾，中部的游泳池在擴(kuò)建，小別墅區(qū)的VILLA HOUSE 也在加層翻新，難怪之前聯(lián)系的時候說沒有別墅房了，心里多少有些不爽。 登記的時候，前臺小妹端來了迎賓果汁，哎！毫無添加劑，沒有水的勾兌的味道??！混合的蘋果，橘子和牛油果的香味，現(xiàn)在回國也想試試自制一下。漫步在7公頃的綠茵地上，周圍被椰樹環(huán)繞，想到這幾天能在這潛水，一種莫名的興奮感油然而生。 (圖片轉(zhuǎn)自網(wǎng)絡(luò)）左邊的錐形火山是 Manado Tua, 右邊的長條型島就是 Bunaken.房間還算可以吧，該有的都有，不該有的也有。 我的單人間在三樓，可以俯視整個酒店，房間整體成白綠色，一天三潛之后躺在豪華大床上也能恢復(fù)體力。 獨(dú)立空調(diào)，溫度風(fēng)速隨你控制。 浴室24小時熱水，只有淋浴，沒有浴池，水量還是很大的，估計可能是離海一步之隔的原因吧，略有有一點(diǎn)咸味。 每間房都有落地窗大陽臺，累的時候也可以坐在外面欣賞美景，感受海風(fēng)。整棟樓都有無線WIFI，但是速度真的是不敢恭維，要不然我就全程直播每日行程了。電視里有很多國際頻道，不過小編沒有看電視的習(xí)慣，具體有沒有中文臺還真不清楚。最不爽的還是蚊子，熱帶雨林氣候嘛也沒辦法，每天早晨服務(wù)生打掃房間肯定要敞開門的，然后晚上就輪到我把它們挨個拍死，“哎，你不下地獄，還能是我下嗎？”（圖片轉(zhuǎn)自網(wǎng)絡(luò)）因?yàn)?潛水日程是從第2天開始的，所以晚上也沒什么事干，正好可以去泳池檢查下相機(jī)潛水殼是否漏水。大泳池是正在裝修擴(kuò)建，不過還有一個小泳池，“沒關(guān)系，只要有水就行！” 一開始檢測當(dāng)然不能放相機(jī)進(jìn)去了，不然一旦漏水，連相機(jī)都遭殃了。 把機(jī)殼和閃光燈的O-Ring 分別圖上一層硅油，檢查封閉后下水，哦也！一切正常！把潛水殼放回房間后，就是拿上PADI AOW的潛水證，NITROX 富氧許可證和一大袋子的潛水裝備趕往酒店的潛水中心登記。很多朋友都說自己潛過水，但是卻是無證，我只能告訴你，你那是體驗(yàn)潛水，費(fèi)用昂貴而且只能潛到10米左右，水下真正的美景你根本感受不到。還是考一個潛水證吧，初級的4天就完事了，小編的進(jìn)階潛水證也只用多出兩天時間，之后就能潛到40米，還能學(xué)會簡單的安全技巧和浮力掌握知識，你說值不值呢？ 所有潛水裝備，除了潛水電腦，潛水手電和相機(jī)外，都可以存在潛水中心，每天管理人員會幫你運(yùn)到船上，裝上“壓縮21%氧氣含量的空氣金屬氣罐”，清洗，曬干；你唯一需要做的就是出發(fā)前檢查物件是否齊全，檢查氧氣氣壓是否達(dá) 200大氣壓。檢查完潛水證，填完登記表后，（其實(shí)就是證明沒有疾病之類的）我還在潛水中心借了兩本魚類科普畫冊，這幾天學(xué)一學(xué)沒有壞處，希望這次看到的魚類都能叫出名字。因?yàn)橐?潛至少8天，每天至少3潛，所以盡量不要重復(fù)潛點(diǎn)，除非偶爾幾個真的是非常美麗，值得再去。根據(jù)本人的潛水經(jīng)驗(yàn)，一般早晨8點(diǎn)開始出發(fā)，所以盡量早起吃多一點(diǎn)自助早餐，保證一上午的能量供應(yīng)。 一共兩潛，潛點(diǎn)盡量安排在島的東面，這樣陽光可以斜射在珊瑚礁上，色彩會比較鮮艷，對于用魚眼鏡頭拍攝大場面效果會非常好。中午12點(diǎn)回酒店，要立刻吃午餐。 下午2點(diǎn)出發(fā)，這時太陽已經(jīng)開始西下，所以去島的西邊吧，可以換成準(zhǔn)鏡頭拍攝魚類。夜?jié)撘话?在6點(diǎn)，可以把潛點(diǎn)安排在水下沙地和珊瑚礁潛點(diǎn)，這時蝦兵蟹將都出動了，拿上你的微距鏡頭，手電和攝影燈吧，小生物的特寫全靠這些裝備了。記住每次潛水之后都要休息至少一個小時讓身體排出氮?dú)?，一?就是坐在船上瞎聊，這時可以提前準(zhǔn)備一些零食，比如香蕉，茶水之類的。小編每個早晨出海都會灌一壺紅糖姜茶，不但可以補(bǔ)充能量，還能讓大腦興奮起來。Bunaken 本娜肯潛水點(diǎn)Lembeh Straits 藍(lán)碧海峽潛水點(diǎn)前5天差不多都是在本娜肯島周圍潛水，此島非常特殊，海下四周都是深不見底的懸崖，所以WALL DIVE可算是全球聞名。小編幾乎全程按照攝影計劃實(shí)施，偶爾也會遷就同船的日本潛友，去一些他們喜歡的潛點(diǎn)。每一潛都會有潛導(dǎo)帶隊，沒隊最多3人，絕對可以照顧的過來。潛導(dǎo)們對這里非常熟悉，跟我說海底就是他們的家，在家里找到想找的東西易如反掌。潛水第一天：潛點(diǎn)1. BUNAKEN TIMUR； 下水時間 826 AM； 水下停留時間： 48分鐘；最深：28米；鉛塊配重： 2KG;潛水類型： WALL DIVE; 相機(jī)鏡頭： 魚眼； 水溫：28度。隨行隊員及潛導(dǎo)，魚眼仰拍。 效果：半個 Snell's window.潛點(diǎn)2. BORUR;下水時間：1020 AM; 水下停留時間：53分鐘；最深：31米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度。各式各樣的珊瑚潛點(diǎn)3. HOUSE Reef 下水時間：1415 PM; 水下停留時間：55分鐘；最深：23米；鉛塊配重：2KG; 潛水類型： SANDY BOTTOM; 相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫： 28度。透明磷蝦第2天： 潛點(diǎn)4： LIKUAN III; 下水時間： 8：20AM;水下停留時間： 61分鐘；最深： 27米；配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE相機(jī)鏡頭： 魚眼；水溫： 29度。俯拍海底潛點(diǎn)5. LIKUAN I下水時間： 10：30AM水下停留時間：60分鐘；最深：27米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE& WALL DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼； 水溫：28度。小編水中自拍 （水下拿掉呼吸頭是不正確的，因?yàn)?拍攝需要這次特例，請勿模仿）潛點(diǎn)6 ：LIKUAN II下水時間： 1435PM水下停留時間：58分鐘；最深：30米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度.紅色扇珊瑚第三天潛點(diǎn)7. BLACK ROCK下水時間： 8：38AM水下停留時間：43分鐘；最深：31米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：SANDY BOTTOM & REEF DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼； 水溫：29度。小丑魚潛點(diǎn)8. MOLAS SHIP WRECH下水時間： 1030 AM水下停留時間：40分鐘；最深：37米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： WRECK DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼； 水溫：27度。此船為日本太平洋戰(zhàn)爭時被荷蘭軍隊擊沉的運(yùn)輸船，長60米，寬10米。船中物資上世紀(jì)80年代已被打撈一空，來此毫無危險。潛點(diǎn)9. KATRIN 下水時間： 18：18PM水下停留時間：62分鐘；最深：21米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： NIGHT DIVE &; REEF DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：28度紅色寄居小螃蟹第四天潛點(diǎn)10. SACHIKO POINT 下水時間： 8：30AM水下停留時間：55分鐘；最深：29米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度玳瑁大海龜在休息潛點(diǎn)11. BANGO下水時間： 10：44AM水下停留時間：55分鐘；最深：27米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：29度向我挺近的獅子魚潛點(diǎn)12. BAHOWO下水時間： 1420PM水下停留時間：63分鐘；最深：24米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： SANDY BOTTOM;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度小編水下自拍第五天潛點(diǎn)13. MUKA KAMPUNG下水時間： 8：30水下停留時間：58分鐘；最深：30米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型： REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度水下20米左右的扇珊瑚，上方為潛導(dǎo) JIEN.潛點(diǎn)14. TIMUR BORUR下水時間： 1020AM水下停留時間：55分鐘；最深：27米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度SNELL'S WINDOW潛點(diǎn)15 GABET下水時間：14：18PM 水下停留時間：65分鐘；最深：19米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE & SANDY BOTTOM ;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度潛導(dǎo) JIEN 勇斗 八爪小章魚！第六天潛點(diǎn)16：SILADEN TIMUR 下水時間： 8：35AM水下停留時間：63分鐘；最深：23米；鉛塊配重：2KG; 潛水類型：WALL DIVE & MACRO DIVE;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：29度小海兔！ （這一天都在拍微距小動物，為的就是轉(zhuǎn)天的 藍(lán)碧海峽積累經(jīng)驗(yàn)?。擖c(diǎn)17. TIMUR下水時間： 1040AM水下停留時間：55分鐘；最深：27米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：WALL DIVE & MACRO DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：29度NIMO!潛點(diǎn)18. ENGINE POINT下水時間：14：22PM 水下停留時間：58分鐘；最深：24米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：SANDY BOTTOM & MACRO DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：28度藍(lán)色海鰻第7天： 藍(lán)碧海峽 - 車程2小時，一早吃完早餐， 8點(diǎn)出發(fā)，10點(diǎn)多一點(diǎn)到達(dá)，車上拉著10個氣罐和3個人的潛水裝備。 因?yàn)?是MUCK DIVING, 所以小編只準(zhǔn)備了微距鏡頭。 此行的目的是拍到擬態(tài)章魚（MIMIC OCTOPUS)和侏儒海馬 （PYGMY SEAHORSE)。 今天讓我感覺到了什么叫“人算不如天算”， 悲催的小編第一潛，到水里后才發(fā)現(xiàn)閃光燈的電量居然不夠了?。?！ 尼瑪?。?！ 雖然帶了備用電池，但是也沒法在水下換啊！ 拍出來的照片黑暗無比，28米的深度，當(dāng)時就算調(diào)高了ISO也無濟(jì)于事，侏儒海馬算是拍不成了，只能觀賞了，旁邊幾個老外還對我報以懷疑的眼神，好像在問：“你丫的拿了這么大個相機(jī)怎么不閃呢？ 怎么不拍呢？ 不會是來裝樣子的吧!?” 當(dāng)時我恨不得找個洞鉆進(jìn)去，想想還是算了，調(diào)高了ISO往上走走吧，在水淺的地方陽光還算充足，可以拍了！潛點(diǎn)19. MAGIC ROCK下水時間： 1100AM水下停留時間：51分鐘；最深：29米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：MUCK DIVE &; MACRO DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：27度紅毛猩猩蟹第二潛換上了新電池，閃光燈還是給力了，但是依舊不見 擬態(tài)章魚的身影，難到真的找不到了嗎？ 寄希望于最后一潛。潛點(diǎn)20. TK III下水時間：13：00 水下停留時間：62分鐘；最深：25米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：MUCK DIVE &; MACRO DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：28度箭豬河豚吃完船餐后，我們祈禱能夠找到擬態(tài)章魚，我跟潛導(dǎo)請求，這次我想一直潛到 20大氣壓才上來 5米3分鐘停留，可不可以？ 沒想到潛導(dǎo)居然答應(yīng)了，跟我說只要控制好呼吸，我們能水下停留個80分鐘沒問。因?yàn)樘?急，我入水以后迅速下沉，結(jié)果沒有及時中和耳腔壓力，當(dāng)我開始捏著鼻子頂氣時已為時太晚，因?yàn)橛昧^猛，竟然鼻腔的毛細(xì)血管爆裂了！！？？ 哥忍著劇痛竟然堅持了75分鐘， 奇跡啊。潛點(diǎn)21. JAHIR 下水時間：15：40PM水下停留時間：75分鐘；最深：21米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：MUCK DIVE &; MACRO DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：微距；水溫：27度好像叫 DEVIL FISH藍(lán)碧海峽不愧是世界第一 MUCK DIVE 潛點(diǎn)，奇特的生物數(shù)不過來，來這邊潛水的歐洲人實(shí)在太多了，海峽兩邊也有很多潛水中心，下次打算再來一趟，帶個3-4天一定要拍到擬態(tài)章魚，侏儒海馬和麒麟魚。其他海量藍(lán)碧微距照片，小編會在第三部分?jǐn)z影篇發(fā)出請大家關(guān)注。第8天 潛點(diǎn)22. LIKUAN II 下水時間： 8：30AM水下停留時間：54分鐘；最深：29米；鉛塊配重：2KG;潛水類型：REEF DIVE & WALL DIVE ;相機(jī)鏡頭：魚眼；水溫：28度群魚亂舞([]
啄木鳥影片在線污在線看
陳美娟男驢若有點(diǎn)錢女驢就象蒼蠅一樣嗡的一聲把你圍上女驢若有點(diǎn)姿色男驢就象瘋狗一樣呼的一下把你纏住 ———以上之文，如有雷同，純屬巧合。作為背包客就簡單多了，一個背包行走在天涯。。。2月23日從新加坡進(jìn)入斯里蘭卡—————3月14日進(jìn)入馬爾代夫途經(jīng)尼、賈、丹、錫、康、努、馬、加、卡、科賈夫納的海上公路丹布拉石窟里的壁畫獅子巖上的日光浴斯里蘭卡航空的飛機(jī)閑著沒事可以看看電視吃的喝的來了斯里蘭卡的航空的食物還算豐富，但比起阿航就差運(yùn)了，尤其讓國內(nèi)很多講究生活情調(diào)的小白領(lǐng)所不能容忍的，是斯航竟然沒有紅酒供應(yīng)，它媽媽的。。。下了飛機(jī)后的第一站先去尼甘布，一個在海邊的小鎮(zhèn)，從這里開始斯里蘭卡之旅。到了尼甘布后找了一家旅館住下。尼甘布早晨的海灘特別的寧靜只有漁民們在海灘上忙碌著他們的營生剛剛捕撈上來的魔鬼魚，這種魚在馬爾代夫的海邊經(jīng)常的看到。小時候也在上海吃過這種魚，肉質(zhì)一般。斯里蘭卡各個景點(diǎn)的旅游圖尼干布這個離機(jī)場比較近的海邊小城，海灘質(zhì)量不怎么好，水污染有些嚴(yán)重，只適合做簡短地停留修整后再去斯里蘭卡的各個方向，我是準(zhǔn)備從這里坐夜班車去那個靠近印度的海邊小城——賈夫納。看那些從賈夫納回來的小白領(lǐng)們一把鼻涕一把淚的描述賈夫納的海上公路是如何如何的消魂，所以打算去看看。去賈夫納的車不是在車站發(fā)的，需要坐34路公交車在Pereyamulla Junction下車（10min左右，做tutu也可以的，150rs），在這個Junction很容易找到一個叫做TAJ hotel 的門面，在這個小店里買好晚上21：30的過路車去賈夫納的車票，晚上在這里上車。尼于布是一個基督教小城，所以隨處可見教堂和相關(guān)的雕像、圖畫。([]
蓄草研究實(shí)驗(yàn)所
林曉薇寫在前面： 你想去印度嗎？ 我第一次聽到這句話是在07年的拉薩，一個奶茶館，當(dāng)一個藏族人知道我去尼泊爾之后。 哦？印度？當(dāng)時腦子里有過那么一閃念。 再次聽到，是去年在泰國，當(dāng)時遇到的同伴對印度很向往。，可我還不知道我是否可行。在去年的游記完成之后，查閱了相關(guān)的信息，發(fā)現(xiàn)，原來是可以的，于是，看游記，做功課，訂機(jī)票。。。。。。。 真是一次漫長的等待。 今年的十月，當(dāng)我坐在飛往加爾各達(dá)的航班上，對我的同伴說：明明是坐的飛機(jī)，怎么卻象在坐過山車呢？ 當(dāng)時并不知道，這種情緒幾乎貫穿了整個印度，上下起伏著，帶著興奮和不安。 費(fèi)用：約8600人民幣 線路：蘇州-上海-吉隆坡-加爾各達(dá)-格雅-瓦位納西-克久拉霍-歐洽-德里-阿格拉-齋普爾-烏代普爾-焦特普爾-伊斯伊梅爾-比卡內(nèi)爾-阿姆利則-德里-奧蘭加巴德-海德拉巴-金奈-默哈伯利布勒姆-金奈-吉隆坡-上海-蘇州。 拍這張照片的時候，我已經(jīng)在加爾各達(dá)的機(jī)場待了一夜，天剛亮。 初印象是：入境很容易，印度人相當(dāng)隨意，公共場所不太顧及別人。機(jī)場不但有持槍的軍人，還經(jīng)常有警犬巡視，但氣氛并不緊張。 這是加爾各達(dá)的印度博物館。 加爾各達(dá)是印度第二大城市，從機(jī)場到背包客聚集區(qū)薩德街，我和同伴選擇了大巴，這個過程讓我見識到很多熟悉的畫面，二名男性勾著小手指，擁擠的交通，好喝的CHAI。 找好住處，換好錢，辦好手機(jī)卡已經(jīng)是下午了，于是選擇了離住處不遠(yuǎn)的印度博物館。 這是印度最老的博物館，第一次體會到外國人的優(yōu)越性，一進(jìn)售票處，就被保安領(lǐng)到最前面，本地人都在那里排著隊呢，當(dāng)然，我們的票價是他們的15倍。 這個廳還算吸引我的視線，呈列的都是各時期的石雕。很多地方都是空白，貼著一張紙，讓同伴看過才知道，它們?nèi)チ酥袊?展出，我來到印度看它們，它們卻去了我的國家，好微妙。 更微妙的是：我和同伴被要求站在一起拍合影，從去年遇到到今年，印象里從未跟他合過影。那人拍了我倆之后，道了謝轉(zhuǎn)身離開，咦？他要我倆的照片干嘛？ 隨后又被邀請數(shù)次合影，我基本一看就閃，同伴數(shù)次犧牲色相。 這個廳還算吸引我的視線，呈列的都是各時期的石雕。很多地方都是空白，貼著一張紙，讓同伴看過才知道，它們?nèi)チ酥袊钩?，我來到印度看它們，它們卻去了我的國家，好微妙。 更微妙的是：我和同伴被要求站在一起拍合影，從去年遇到到今年，印象里從未跟他合過影。那人拍了我倆之后，道了謝轉(zhuǎn)身離開，咦？他要我倆的照片干嘛？ 隨后又被邀請數(shù)次合影，我基本一看就閃，同伴數(shù)次犧牲色相。 ：） 10月17日一早，薩德街。 這紅墻和白墻之內(nèi)就是印度博物館。 那個水桶里應(yīng)該裝的是他們的飲用水，架在磚上的是做飯的鍋。 棚里是睡覺的地方。 那邊，早起的人在喝CHAI，從昨天出機(jī)場嘗過之后，就特別喜歡，我也去喝一杯。 用陶土的杯裝了，很環(huán)保。 這邊喝完，轉(zhuǎn)個街再找地方喝，這個攤很熱鬧，我也過去和他們坐在一起。 大家相互拍唄。 坐在那里喝著，看著。忽然，坐在邊上的小伙子把耳機(jī)的一端，插進(jìn)我的耳朵里，里面?zhèn)?出的是印度歌，是他喜歡的吧。雖然有點(diǎn)驚訝，但我喜歡這樣的善意。 今天上午的計劃是去特蕾莎修女創(chuàng)辦的motherhouse（仁愛之家）做一天的義工，但我們并不認(rèn)識路。 在不斷問路的時候，遇見一個人，表示可以帶我們?nèi)ァ? 他給我的印象是個拾荒者，他向我們介紹了自己的名字，家人，和家庭的一些情況，這個場景，在很多游記里都有記載，無非是帶路，收取小費(fèi)。但我印象很深的是二點(diǎn)，一是：他數(shù)次為自己的衣冠不整道歉（他的襯衣上有一個不小的劃口），二是，在拿到50盧比（人民幣5元）之后，他不僅用英語說謝謝，還一直問我的同伴，謝謝的中文怎么說，用中文向我表達(dá)了謝意。 仁愛之家總部小小的門口。 若不是那人帶領(lǐng)，我們應(yīng)該是無法在別人出發(fā)之前趕到。 以至于，我們都沒來得及參觀特蕾莎修女陵墓。剛找到一個中國人，就開始了某些“儀式”？ 先是唱基督的歌曲，我不會，只能低著頭聽著，然后是請最后一天做義工的人走出來，唱感恩歌，看著很多人，眼中閃著淚光。 唱罷，分組。那個中國人去的是垂死之家，同樣是中國人，自然想去同一個地方，他讓我們?nèi)バ夼?那里登記，因為我們沒有特別說明，所以分派的字條上寫著Prem Dan（老人之家，照顧需要長期照料但不垂死的老人）。 領(lǐng)隊的是個智利人，每年來加爾各達(dá)做一個月義工，已經(jīng)幾年。這一隊里有三個東方面孔，來自三個國家：馬來西亞，韓國，中國。 在這里服務(wù)，男女是分開的，這讓我一下慌了神，語言不通該如何是好？ 韓國的那個女孩，幫我拿來圍裙和手套，指給我放包的地方。當(dāng)我們進(jìn)到宿舍的時候，能移動的人已經(jīng)出去了，床已經(jīng)搬開，用消毒水拖地，擦床墊，重新把床擺好，鋪床單，然后就是去室外幫助向那些老人分發(fā)食物。 把分好的食物拿到她們面前，有行動不便的，需要喂食的，要喂她們吃下。在我東張西望想知道該做什么的時候，我被招到一個老人面前，這應(yīng)該是個中風(fēng)的病人，她被斜綁在椅子上，看著我，不能說話。 奶茶沖的米花是很燙的，她知道我是新人，雖然看著我每次都先吹涼，但還是用嘴唇試著溫度，她坐不直，我們倆都很努力的盡量能一次把一勺的米花吃完，我很緊張，不知道怎么做會更好些。先喂的都是干的部分，最后的那些奶茶是實(shí)在不在我的能力范圍之內(nèi)，我向一個老的義工求助，她告訴我應(yīng)該怎么處理，但很快發(fā)現(xiàn)，我根本聽不懂，于是她接了過去。 不知不覺到了休息的時間，男性的義工們也都過來坐在一起喝奶茶，大家聊著天。 十幾個人中只有二個來自相同的國家，真是個多國的部隊，只有我和同伴二人是一天的義工。 這是休息時間，大家坐下喝奶茶，聊天。 休息總是短暫的，下面更加忙碌些。 替老人按MO頭部，跟她們一起玩拼圖，喂中飯。 送她們回房間的時候，才發(fā)現(xiàn)，殘疾的人比我想的要多，有些需要坐輪椅，有些是自己坐在地上撐著回去的。 最后一次攙扶一個老人回房間之后，我被另一個老人招手叫到床前。我看看四周，義工只有我一個，我知道她，我們到的時候，她就在跟老的義工打招呼，看著是個性格活潑的人，似乎看不出患有疾病的樣子，她叫我干嘛呢？ 我走到她的床邊，她對我微笑著，捧起我的臉，親吻我的雙頰，雙手合十對我說著謝謝。 禁不住，淚流滿面。 離開的時候，回望Prem Dan。 回程，因?yàn)榇蠹掖蠖喽甲≡谒_德周圍，所以沒有再搭公車回去仁愛之家的總部， 領(lǐng)隊幫我們打TUTU直接回到薩德。 在印度，TUTU是主要的交通工具之一，這里的TUTU比泰國小很多，因?yàn)槭枪潭ǖ木€路，領(lǐng)隊幫我們談好價錢（一般對外國人都會開高價），分幾批，讓我們坐上去。四個大人擠在后面一排，那是絕對無法動彈的，坐在最外面的聞僑（我的同伴）甚至腳都放不進(jìn)來。 加爾各達(dá)擁擠的交通，TUTU的橫沖直撞，那一程，真是心驚肉跳。其實(shí)一直到離開印度，我坐TUTU的時候都會不安，但必須承認(rèn)，沒有出過意外。 回到旅館，退房，存包，找地兒吃飯吧。在街上晃著，看見早上一起的那個韓國女孩和昨天誤以為我是韓國人的另一個韓國女孩都坐在路邊吃飯，禁不住好奇，第二天就吃起了路邊攤。另一個韓國的女生，第一次來印度，，哪兒都沒去，就待在兒童之家做義工，已經(jīng)三個月了，說是剛?cè)サ?時候也是天天都在哭，現(xiàn)在已經(jīng)習(xí)慣了。 下午，去了多利亞紀(jì)念堂，明明還在開放的時間，不知為何卻不讓我們進(jìn)入，只能離開。 走走晃晃，天色漸晚，今晚就要坐火車離開了。 終于，要見識印度的火車了，傳說中經(jīng)常晚點(diǎn)，不報站名，名字會貼在車門口的火車是什么樣的呢？ 在印度，火車無疑是最重要的交通工具，歷史悠久，網(wǎng)線遍布各處。而它的實(shí)名制，也實(shí)行近百年。 這一次的印度之行，火車也是做為首選的交通工具。為了在排燈節(jié)（印度三大節(jié)日之一)前，趕到瓦拉納西，聞橋在官網(wǎng)上注冊，并提前訂購了二程火車票。今晚，是我們的第一程。 盡管印度火車站的畫面幾十次，數(shù)百次的出現(xiàn)在我面前，但我到達(dá)豪拉火車站之后，還是感到震驚。候車室的地上，坐著，躺著，滿滿都是人，黑壓壓的幾大片，甚至我們都找不到合適的地方。 上到二樓的AC候車室（印度火車臥鋪分為AC1、AC2、AC3、SL四等），外國人的優(yōu)勢再一次得到體現(xiàn)，查票的人數(shù)次從我們面前經(jīng)過，卻都跳過（我們的票是SL，不可以進(jìn)AC的候車室）。 聞僑每隔一段時間，就下樓去看電子屏，回來對我說很奇怪，比我們時間晚的車次都已經(jīng)公布站臺，而我們的班次卻遲遲沒有信息，問過值班室，說沒有問。 再晚些的時候，答案終于揭曉，我們的火車改道了。那對我們有影響嗎？問了值班室的結(jié)果是無任何影響，但總覺得放心不下，官網(wǎng)上去搜了站名，再搜了公告找出地圖對比，我們要去的格雅，被跳過了。。。。。。。 那怎么辦？公告是改道五天，延期不可能，唯一的辦法是到最近的站點(diǎn)下車，然后轉(zhuǎn)車。所有經(jīng)濟(jì)上的損失和下一程的車票，都由我們自行負(fù)擔(dān)。 第一次見識到印度鐵道的隨意性（提前無任何通知），卻也無可奈何，只能期望下一班車票能順利買到。 上車，找鋪，檢票（印度火車站，進(jìn)站是不用查票的，上車后，臥鋪車廂會來檢票），睡覺?！ ? 一晚的輾轉(zhuǎn)，這是第二天早上，停靠的一個小站。 SL車廂，不鎖車門，在門口坐了一會，迎著風(fēng)，把腳伸出門外，感覺很自由。 天亮以后，便躺不住，從上輔下來坐到下輔（印度臥鋪車廂沒有座位，在我們座位的位置，是二層的邊鋪）。 車廂里，一直有小販進(jìn)出，叫賣著CHAI和各種小吃的東西。旁邊邊下鋪坐著二個印度人，買了帶殼的花生，示意要給我吃，推了二次之后，便接過幾個，自己剝來吃。我跟他們說，我是中國人，但明顯，他們并沒有反應(yīng)，看來是不懂英語。 遞了二次之后，看我不好意思一直拿，竟然幫我剝好一把花生仁，再遞過來。此后一直繼續(xù)這個步驟，當(dāng)然也沒少了我的同伴。這是我第二次感受到普通印度人的善意。 晚點(diǎn)三小時之后，到了帕特納，所幸后面的車票購買十分順利，但原本只有六小時的車程，延到了十四小時。 格雅并不是我們要去的地方，我們想去的是十公里之外的菩提迦耶。去看一棵樹，那棵菩提樹。 大菩提寺，高52米，始建于公元前三年，由阿育王建造，后幾經(jīng)修繕，于2002年被列為世界文化遺產(chǎn)。 雖然是清早，但已經(jīng)有各國的僧人在此念經(jīng)了。 光腳踩在石板上（進(jìn)寺廟不能穿鞋），那是相當(dāng)的涼。 看見一隊小和尚，遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)的跑過來，感覺上，大部分象是藏族的孩子。（這里有藏寺廟，還有藏人村） 待我轉(zhuǎn)到后面的時候，他們已經(jīng)列隊站好，在唱佛歌，各國信徒們紛紛站在前面合影、布施。 這就是那棵菩提樹。 其實(shí)這不是那棵的本株，本來的樹已經(jīng)被毀，這株是阿育王時代帶去斯里蘭卡的分枝，后又從斯里蘭卡移回。 樹下，是金剛座。 再轉(zhuǎn)過去，這一隅，是藏傳佛教的區(qū)域，很多僧人，在長叩。 這是在藏區(qū)最為長見的場面，所以找了一處空地，坐下想吃點(diǎn)餅干。 剛一坐下，就有狗狗圍上來，我知道它們是想要些吃的東西，但它們也不會去搶你手中的東西，只會趴在你的身邊，腳塔在你的腳上，非常溫順的樣子。 餓了，回去吃飯，正好遇上住在同一旅館的中國人，叫上一起，這是第一次吃印度式套餐，當(dāng)時覺得，味道還不錯。 其實(shí)這里還有各國的很多寺廟，昨天傍晚已經(jīng)去粗粗轉(zhuǎn)過。 所以，這天的黃昏，還是再去了大菩提寺。 黃昏的大菩提寺，各國的僧侶都以自己的方式在參拜者，但給我的感覺并不太好，似乎各自為營，又似乎有些嘩眾取寵，總之不是那么純粹。 那塔下，便是那棵樹，真真是枝繁葉茂。 夜了，那一點(diǎn)點(diǎn)的，不是星星，而是--飛蟲。 又到了離開的時候，今晚，是第二程火車，還會有變化嗎？([]
毆美性交
林映舜心靈的旅行——28天西藏、尼泊爾行 前 言多年來，一直有個愿望，就是能夠去西藏看看，雖然在電視里已經(jīng)領(lǐng)略了西藏的廣遨、美麗，但那面積122萬多平方公里、約占中國陸地總面積的八分之一、在中國各省區(qū)中僅次于新疆維吾爾自治區(qū)、位居第二、相當(dāng)于英國、法國、德國、荷蘭和盧森堡5國面積總和的神秘地區(qū)，還是想親身去體驗(yàn)一下。朋友們都勸我不要到哪具有不確定因素和危險性的地方去，那里的高海拔、藏民的不友好、飲食的不習(xí)慣、氣候的變幻莫測、道路的不安全等等都會給去的人有著潛在的威脅，無論人們怎樣的訴說著西行的危險，都阻擋不了我要去的決心。人生無非就是兩件事：生與死。生了，即意味著走向死亡，只是在從生到死的過程中，每個人的表現(xiàn)形式不同，每個人都在尋求著生命的長度，但生命僅僅有長度是不夠的，還需要有一定的寬度。在某種意義上，我們每個人的生命的長度是不確定的、也是自己無法掌控的，但是其生命的寬度是可以自己支配的。我只希望在我的有生之年，能夠讓自己活得自由、活得充實(shí)、活得快樂、活得有意義。今年的7月終于有了這樣一個合適的機(jī)會，由原始部落戶外群海風(fēng)發(fā)起的西藏自由行成行，且行程比較符合我的心意，我毅然決然的跟隨了這支團(tuán)隊進(jìn)藏。從7月23日出發(fā)，到8月21日回連，歷經(jīng)28天的游歷，期間的酸甜苦辣咸五味俱全，對生命有了更多的感悟。從新浦火車站起始，經(jīng)歷了徐州、蘭州、西寧的三次轉(zhuǎn)車，沿著青藏線坐著火車去拉薩；從拉薩證去尼泊爾，到坐著尼國的直升飛機(jī)回到樟木口岸，期間享受著著尼國的自然美景、宗教文化、異國美食，承受著山體倒塌，村莊被覆蓋、村民遇難和失蹤的驚嚇，忍耐著尼國的酷熱和道路不通的焦慮；從樟木口岸沿著318國道回拉薩的途中，在顛簸的路上欣賞那沿途的如詩如畫的美景時，驚聞一輛承載44位游客的旅游大巴車，在我們已經(jīng)過去的路段上，和對面開來的越野車、皮卡車相撞，翻下十幾米的懸崖，車毀人亡；在拉薩，我們9人乘坐著包租的兩輛商務(wù)車，沿著318國道去成都。青山綠水的美景，伴隨著泥石流和道路塌方，驚險的318國道伴隨著兩輛商務(wù)車的分別出故障；在九寨溝的靜海前，我們?yōu)榈诙v旅游大巴的翻車而痛心，為遇難的游客默哀。感謝上蒼對我的厚愛，感謝愛我的人為我的祈禱，感謝西藏給我的洗禮，感謝我自己的堅強(qiáng)、豁達(dá)和樂觀。我安全的、健康的、快樂的回來了美麗的措那湖土族第一村——互助村([]
午夜—級在線免費(fèi)
王志靖Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學(xué)的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學(xué)的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個免責(zé)聲明：1。楊同學(xué)不認(rèn)識俺，也沒有授權(quán)俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時終止；2。俺沒有商業(yè)目的，譯版版權(quán)歸楊同學(xué)，俺啥也不要，也不承擔(dān)法律責(zé)任；3。沒有楊同學(xué)授權(quán)，不敢擅自發(fā)在國外網(wǎng)站，發(fā)在原帖處，榮譽(yù)歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉(zhuǎn)貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復(fù)了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機(jī)會一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點(diǎn)兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give bi
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翟秀玲這是一個遲到的作業(yè)！鰲太穿越回來后，一直忙于工作，眼看2012年就要過去了，總得在世界末日之前把作業(yè)完成了，算是有個交代。 鰲太穿越路線，近幾年比較火，相關(guān)情況也就不啰嗦了，本貼只是把個人穿越的經(jīng)歷簡單介紹一下，與關(guān)心鰲太的驢友們分享！ 鰲太穿越是昆崳山游擊隊去年完成狼C穿越（https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1186521-1-1.html）后，今年選定的長線穿越計劃。時間初步定在六月的下旬。今年春季，游擊隊為鰲太行進(jìn)行了集體性、系統(tǒng)性的拉練。光負(fù)重40斤以上的模擬拉練就進(jìn)行了4次。確定的出征人員包括我共六人。而實(shí)施熬太穿越時，我卻因?yàn)楣ぷ麝P(guān)系而未能參加。送戰(zhàn)友出征的那一刻，看到他們個個信心百倍、斗志昂揚(yáng)，心里甭提多難受了！為不能與戰(zhàn)友們一起攻堅克難完成穿越而難過，更為不能與戰(zhàn)友們一起欣賞大美風(fēng)光而頓足！當(dāng)隊長他們凱旋歸來，在為他們慶賀接風(fēng)的同時，我已悄悄地做出了一個決定：一個人完成熬太穿越，補(bǔ)上這一課。做出這一決定，既不是沖動，也不是冒險。因?yàn)椋?一是有隊長他們走過一次的經(jīng)驗(yàn)和GPS軌跡，二是游擊隊春季拉練的體能儲備，三是2010年曾完成過太白穿越，對太白山基本情況的了解。 可以說萬事俱備只欠東風(fēng)，這東風(fēng)就是：一個時間窗口，一個好的天氣。如何分析、判斷天氣變化，確定一個出發(fā)的窗口，對能否順利完成穿越至關(guān)重要！ 經(jīng)查看天氣預(yù)報，并與寶雞的驢友杰米多次交流，初步判斷：9月1號雨后，會有4-5天的好天氣。就是它了，遂決定9月2號進(jìn)山，4天完成穿越。按7天準(zhǔn)備食物，并與隊長約定，7天沒消息就請求救援。 總的來說，這次鰲太穿越計劃完美、實(shí)施順利。9月2號下午330從塘口進(jìn)山，9月6日中午1230從厚畛子出山，差3個小時是4整天。 一、出發(fā)前的準(zhǔn)備。 既然決定一個人走鰲太，各方面的準(zhǔn)備工作必須做扎實(shí)了。 1、體能方面。除了一直參加集體拉練的基礎(chǔ)，就是平時注意加強(qiáng)鍛煉，游泳、徒步、登山等。行前一周，自己又搞了一次模擬重裝拉練。對自己的體能還是有信心的。 2、攻略方面，以隊長的攻略為基礎(chǔ)，擬訂了一個4天的計劃，并針對性的搜集了一下圖片，對等高線圖、影像圖等進(jìn)行了反復(fù)研究。這樣鰲太穿越路線在心中就有了一個完整的概念. 3、裝備方面。單人穿鰲太，必要的裝備必須帶，但要盡可能輕量化，最后確定帶速干衣一套、抓絨衣一套、沖鋒衣褲一套、MSR超輕帳篷一頂、HW鵝絨睡袋。為應(yīng)對突發(fā)惡劣氣候，還帶了一件壓縮羽絨服，這件羽絨服一直在包里沒打開過。所有衣物都裝在防水袋里。 4、食品及藥品。雖計劃4天，但食品數(shù)量是按7天準(zhǔn)備的，還外加一包壓縮餅干。必要的藥品、紗布繃帶等醫(yī)用品一應(yīng)俱全。 5、天氣方面。這是熬太穿越，或是太白穿越是否順利完成的很重要的因素，從8月中旬就一直密切關(guān)注太白縣、周至、寶雞等地的天氣情況。關(guān)于天氣情況分析，后面還要詳細(xì)說。 6、GPS及導(dǎo)航。帶GPS一部，里面有6月份游擊隊走鰲太的軌跡，還有指南針和20米等高線地形圖。穿越過程中，基本上沒用GPS導(dǎo)航，以查看地形、尋找前人走過的路線為主。大霧天則用指南針判別方向。 二、天氣分析 鰲太穿越計劃初步定在9月初，但具體的出發(fā)日期要根據(jù)鰲太的天氣情況而定。從8月中旬就密切關(guān)注太白周邊地區(qū)的天氣情況，當(dāng)看到8月26到31號連續(xù)大雨（預(yù)報是暴雨），9月1號預(yù)報天氣好轉(zhuǎn)，初步判斷，9月1號以后應(yīng)該有幾天好天，于是著手各項(xiàng)準(zhǔn)備工作。到8月28、29號再次查看天氣預(yù)報，結(jié)果是9月1號以后有4-5天好天氣，遂確定了行程計劃：8月31從煙臺出發(fā)，9月1日中午到西安，下午坐西安到太白縣的車，在太白休整一晚，9月2號一早進(jìn)山。對天氣情況的分析，與寶雞驢友杰米進(jìn)行了多次溝通，另外還就進(jìn)山起點(diǎn)以及租車等有關(guān)事宜麻煩杰米，在此感謝杰米的大力支持！ 鰲太穿越或太白穿越，天氣因素至關(guān)重要！一個好的天氣，不但能使你的穿越輕松順利，還能飽覽太白風(fēng)光。而雨雪天或者大霧天，將使你的穿越難度增加幾倍、十幾倍，甚至有生命危險。近幾年熬太事故頻繁，都與惡劣天氣有關(guān)。 記得2010年8月16-18日，與蹄子、睡蓮三人太白北南穿越（https//bbs.8264.com/thread-486632-1-1.html），也是在認(rèn)真分析天氣情況下安排的行程。穿越路線：鸚哥--平安寺--大文公廟--大爺海--跑馬梁-萬仙陣--將軍廟--都督門。用時2天半。當(dāng)時對天氣的判斷是16號一天好天，17號半天到一天好天，18號下雨。由此確定，16號一早必須開始穿越，利用一天到一天半的時間，將鸚哥到大爺海的這段上升路段拿下。跑馬梁及后面的將軍廟路段是平道和下坡路段，即使下雨也能按計劃完成穿越。而我們的火車晚點(diǎn)3個小時，15號到西安已經(jīng)是晚上630了，如果16號耽誤在去鸚哥的路上，那么穿越將變得很艱難。不得已，求助西安的同學(xué)提供支援，連夜將我們送到鸚哥鎮(zhèn)，確保了穿越按計劃進(jìn)行。穿越的實(shí)際情況是：16好一天的好天，17號走到跑馬梁水窩營地時大霧，能加度不足50米，到將軍廟扎營時變成大霧加中雨；18號半天是在雨中走的，中午到都督門時雨還一直下。 所以，認(rèn)真研究天氣情況，是鰲太穿越的必備功課。這次獨(dú)行鰲太圓滿順利，完全得益于這4天的好天氣，盡管中間也遇到大風(fēng)大霧，但整個行程還是以好天為主。9月7日上午回到西安，下午就開始下雨了。 三、行前會議。 確定了8月31號（周五）出發(fā)的日期，30號晚游擊隊核心成員搞了個小型聚會，算是我出征鰲太的行前會議，這也是隊長他們6月份成功穿越鰲太慶功宴以來，游擊隊第一次聚會。會上，我詳細(xì)通報了這次獨(dú)行鰲太的具體計劃和日程安排，隊長他們介紹了6月份鰲太行的有關(guān)情況，對鰲太穿越中的難點(diǎn)、容易迷路的地方以及沿途補(bǔ)水點(diǎn)、營地情況等做了詳細(xì)介紹。4人一起對我的行程安排、裝備、食品、藥品等一一進(jìn)行了梳理。根據(jù)我對天氣情況的分析，9月2號以后應(yīng)該有4-5天的好天氣，利用這一有利條件，順利完成鰲太穿越是完全可能的。但考慮到鰲太氣候多變的特點(diǎn)，鰲太穿越全是好天也是不可能的，設(shè)想了最壞的情況并商討了應(yīng)對方案，對可能的下撤路線一一進(jìn)行了查看、分析。這次穿越計劃時間是4天，考慮到是單人穿越，應(yīng)盡量縮短穿越的時間，因此穿越的起點(diǎn)由原來計劃的塘口，調(diào)整到23KM管理處。并與隊長他們約定，以7天為限，7天沒消息，也就是9月8號晚沒有消息，就直接聯(lián)系西安藍(lán)天救援隊和當(dāng)?shù)?警方組織救援。 考慮到單人穿越熬太非同一般，和隊長他們商定出發(fā)前就不發(fā)消息了，等成功出山后再發(fā)。這主要是怕朋友們擔(dān)心，因為8月份剛剛發(fā)生了鰲山5人失蹤事件，4人已找到，仍有1人下落不明，救援工作還沒結(jié)束。還有就是鰲太剛剛下了4天大雨，新聞報道說太白地區(qū)山洪爆發(fā)，多處塌方，沖毀道路等，這些消息肯定會讓朋友們更擔(dān)心我的安全。所以不發(fā)消息事出無奈，等出山后再做解釋吧。 四、一波三折的起步階段 萬事開頭難！此話不假！這次進(jìn)山前的種種波折，我算是領(lǐng)教了這句話的真正含義?。?！原定的計劃，不得已而不斷的變更。 之所以選擇坐長途汽車，就是想9月1號晚上趕到太白縣，9月2號一早開始進(jìn)山。去西安之前，電話咨詢確認(rèn)，每天下午240和330有兩趟西安發(fā)太白縣的班車。煙臺到西安的長途汽車是頭天下午230發(fā)車，約18個小時可以到西安，一算應(yīng)該是第二天的上午8、9點(diǎn)到，這樣上午可以補(bǔ)充食品，下午班車到太白縣。而火車是下午300多到西安，而且這趟火車幾乎每次都晚點(diǎn)，肯定趕不上去太白的班車。所以選擇做長途汽車而不是火車。計劃的很完美，而現(xiàn)實(shí)是，各種不順把這個計劃化為了泡影。 8月31號下午登上去西安的長途班車，連夜趕路。夜里2點(diǎn)，過了豫陜交界處，高速公路交警勒令休息，休息的時間是200-500。夜里睡不著，就跟值班的交警聊天，問這個規(guī)定是啥時候出的，答曰去年就有了，因?yàn)檠影部蛙噦?事故，最近嚴(yán)格執(zhí)行這一規(guī)定。不光是雙層臥鋪，所有客車都得執(zhí)行。規(guī)定咱得執(zhí)行，可這時間就耽誤3個小時。詢問司機(jī)，說中午1200可以到西安，想想12點(diǎn)到也還來得及趕上班車，補(bǔ)充食品那就到太白縣辦理吧！ 5點(diǎn)，車準(zhǔn)時出發(fā)。天下小雨，伴有薄霧，當(dāng)830，車行駛到新安縣的某個地方時，車停了，不一會高速路上的車就排出去了20公里。本以為停一會就放行了，可是直到中午1200依然沒有動的跡象。哎，這叫什么事??？在這前不著村后不著店的地方，就這么傻呆呆的等！沒人告訴你為什么？沒人告訴你還要等多長時間？高速路的交警呢？一直沒看見人影。熬到下午2點(diǎn)，實(shí)在堅持不住了，只好打聽著，到離高速路約1公里的村子買了泡面、餅干、咸菜、零食什么的，做好了長期抗戰(zhàn)的準(zhǔn)備。也就是在這個村子的小賣店，才知道這里屬河南新安縣。 對于這種無法預(yù)測的等待，真的讓人郁悶、無助，就像一個看不到頭的災(zāi)難，給人一種恐懼的感覺。眼看著下午的霧氣貌似越來越重，真不知道啥時是個頭??？終于，到下午330放行了！額的神?。。。?到達(dá)西安已是晚上8點(diǎn)了，白白的浪費(fèi)了7個小時的時間，啥都耽誤了。值得安慰的則是，伴隨著一路的雨，下車時還下著呢，而到睡覺的時候已經(jīng)停了，天也放晴了。 無奈、上火都沒用，調(diào)整計劃吧！晚上宿西安，明天一早趕往太白縣?；疖囌举I好了9月8號的返程票，采購了必備的食品，城西客運(yùn)站旁邊找了家賓館住下。急也沒有，反正是今天趕不到太白了，洗了個熱水澡，美美地睡上一覺。 9月2號早晨600，來到城西客運(yùn)站?？瓦\(yùn)站剛開門，問了一下，上午沒有去太白縣的客車，還是下午那兩班車，仔細(xì)詢問，原來這車是太白縣跑西安，下午返回。聽說這幾天太白地區(qū)暴雨洪水，道路被沖，感覺等這車有些不靠譜。經(jīng)車站工作人員推薦，可以先到眉縣，眉縣跑太白縣的車多。就這么定了，轉(zhuǎn)道眉縣去太白縣。買了西安去眉縣的車票，730發(fā)車。等車的時后，抬頭看看，天氣晴朗，漫天朝霞！真是一個好天??！心里反倒焦急了起來，恨不得馬上飛到徒步起點(diǎn)，開始穿越。730汽車準(zhǔn)時發(fā)車。車出西安，沿途風(fēng)光好！因前幾天大雨，渭河還有其他河流，水位暴漲，洪水咆哮！910到眉縣長途車站。進(jìn)賣票處一問，因太白大雨，眉縣至太白縣公路被沖毀，班車停發(fā)。又遇波折。然后問，怎么去太白縣？答曰轉(zhuǎn)車。先到潘家灣，換乘寶雞--太白或?qū)?雞--陳倉的班車。只好這樣了。渭河泥漿般的洪水，水位依然很高。1040到潘家灣。 在潘家灣等了將近30分鐘，連續(xù)兩輛班車都因客滿而拒絕我們上車（我和太白縣的一位老同志），天氣這么好，而我卻在中途滯留，就看著時間這么流失了，著急??！在這兒耽誤一個小時，就可能因此而在穿越中耽擱半天，甚至更長時間，真的不敢去設(shè)想。時不我待，必須盡快趕到徒步起點(diǎn)。遂決定打車到太白縣，并告訴太白的那位老同志，免費(fèi)帶他到太白縣。于是，講好了價錢，我們二人同乘一車奔向太白。當(dāng)車進(jìn)入秦嶺，看到青山綠樹，藍(lán)天白云，心情大好，終于可以松口氣了！但是且慢，后面還有波折在等著，此是后話，回頭再講。暫且不管它，先欣賞美景吧。途中，還免費(fèi)搭載一位解放軍戰(zhàn)士。1200到達(dá)坡頂，下了坡就是太白縣。1240到達(dá)太白縣城。找到了糧食局對面的戶外店，買了兩個氣罐，加上自己帶的，這次穿越鰲太共帶了3個氣罐。買好了氣罐，租好了車，到市場買了洋蔥和大頭菜和大蔥，當(dāng)車出縣城時已是下午1點(diǎn)多了。馬不停蹄，奔向計劃的登山點(diǎn)--23KM管理處。沿途能看見洪水沖倒的樹木。司機(jī)師傅告訴我，要打電話盡快打，爬上山坡后就沒信號了。我趕緊給隊長打了個電話，告訴他已經(jīng)進(jìn)山，從23KM管理處登山。也給家人打了個電話，說就要進(jìn)山了，這幾天沒有信號，等出山再聯(lián)系。沒想到的是，又遇波折。就在離23KM登山處還有17、8公里的時候，洪水把道路完全沖毀，公路部門正在搶修道路，問什么時候可以修通，回答說要明天下午。于是，原路返回，奔向備用登山點(diǎn)--塘口。 再次經(jīng)過太白縣城，駛向塘口。途中，和隊長再次聯(lián)系，告訴無法從23KM管理處登山，登山點(diǎn)改為塘口。并和隊長說了起步階段的種種波折，隊長說要淡定，后面的行程一定會很順利！哈哈，還真讓隊長說對了！不經(jīng)歷風(fēng)雨，怎么見彩虹！塘口，這也是游擊隊6月份鰲太穿越的起點(diǎn)。進(jìn)塘口的路就在公路邊上，路口一個方形拱門，旁邊有個加油站。其實(shí)塘口登山處就是塘口村五組，沿水泥道一直往南走，在稍往右一拐，就是去登山口的土路，路的兩邊是蔬菜地。 五、9月2日下午3：30進(jìn)山，塘口--藥農(nóng)窩棚。 下午3：30開始進(jìn)山，很快找到了岔路口。順小路往上攀登，過了一個小平臺，一會就進(jìn)了山溝里。順山溝的小路，不停的在溪水兩邊來回蹦。河溝被洪水沖刷的厲害，沒用仔細(xì)往右尋路，就一直順溝往上走，直到7點(diǎn)多，天快擦黑了，卻發(fā)現(xiàn)前面沒路了。根據(jù)對路線的研究，這條沖溝的頂端就是火燒破，那么路線應(yīng)該在右側(cè)的山脊上，于是打開GPS，對照了一下，判斷了方位，果斷地向右側(cè)攀爬，找到了成熟路線。這時天已經(jīng)黑了，約8點(diǎn)來到了火燒破前的平臺，休息了一下，簡單地補(bǔ)充了食物，然后繼續(xù)前進(jìn)，約8：30到藥農(nóng)窩棚，扎營。經(jīng)過了一番周折，風(fēng)風(fēng)火火、急急忙忙，終于在2號的下午330到達(dá)了登山的起點(diǎn)--塘口?？?看這腦海里過了無數(shù)遍的景象，真是感慨萬千！在村口，邊收拾行囊，邊和村民閑聊，順便問了一下前幾天下雨的情況。村民說前幾天雨很大，很多路都被洪水沖了?？纯葱÷?上一道道洪水沖過的溝槽，就知道這雨有多大了。腦子里突然蹦出一個念頭：晚進(jìn)山半天多，未必不是好事，昨晚雨剛停，河溝里全是水，過了這半天，估計水該消退了很多。轉(zhuǎn)念這么一想，心里豁然開朗，和老鄉(xiāng)告別，精神抖擻地踏上了征程。進(jìn)山后看到的景象確實(shí)如此！河溝的水基本消退了，但有的地方水還是很大，有的地方甚至要踩著水過去?？纯催@被洪水沖過的土路。選擇合適的位置，邁過溪流，不一會就到了進(jìn)山的岔路口。志很明顯。 從岔路口進(jìn)去，不到10分鐘，爬上一處小平臺，這兒可以看見蔚藍(lán)的天空。再往前走，進(jìn)了溪谷，幾乎就看不見天了。過了小平臺，再往前就進(jìn)入了溝谷中。溝谷里樹林茂密，遮天蔽日。順著溪流，沿著被洪水沖毀的小道，不斷攀升，有時小路就在溪流里，有的地方?jīng)_的幾乎看不出是小路。太白人參和木通花。沒想到，這個季節(jié)在鰲山還能吃到破班頭，都熟透了，一路不停地吃，權(quán)當(dāng)水果了。順著溝谷，逆流而上，一直走到晚上640多，看看就要到河谷的盡頭了，小路也越來越不明顯。繼續(xù)走了約半個小時，天上越來越暗，還沒看到明顯的山路。于是決定直接拔上右側(cè)山脊，尋找成熟路線。約7點(diǎn)50左右，找到了成熟路線。繼續(xù)走了越10分鐘，800左右來到了山脊上的平臺。這個平臺視野開闊，能看到山脊兩側(cè)的景致，遠(yuǎn)處能看見山下的燈火。平臺再往前就是火燒坡。平臺休息了20分鐘，補(bǔ)充了食品和水，看看山路清晰，戴上頭燈，繼續(xù)趕路，到下一個成熟營地--藥農(nóng)窩棚扎營。上了火燒坡，不一會，電話響了！一看是隊友打來的。本以為沒信號了，竟然來了電話，真是驚喜?。∵@時，回頭看看，太白縣城燈火通明，猛的明白，哈哈，這兒是信號覆蓋區(qū)??！不過，再走10多分鐘，就又進(jìn)入盲區(qū)了，直到厚畛子才有信號。過了火燒坡，右轉(zhuǎn)，不一會來到藥農(nóng)窩棚，這兒水源很好，營地條件也好，遂決定扎營休息。燒茶喝，做飯吃。等忙活完躺下，已是晚上10點(diǎn)半了。 六、9月3日 路線：藥農(nóng)窩棚--2900營地--山脊線--盆景園--白起廟--亂石坡--石海--鰲山導(dǎo)航架--西跑馬梁--藥王廟--麥秸梁--蕎麥梁--水窩子埡口--飛機(jī)梁--飛機(jī)梁埡口。 時間：早420--晚620，計14個小時。 藥農(nóng)窩棚營地條件不錯，地勢平坦，水源充足。營地旁邊是一條溪流，水嘩嘩作響，害得我一晚上沒怎么睡好！躺在帳篷里翻來覆去，到凌晨2點(diǎn)半就醒了，索性起來，收拾帳篷，生火烤餅，面條就大餅。飯后吃了21維他命，喝了一包板藍(lán)根沖劑和西洋參片煮水。待收拾停當(dāng)，420，出發(fā)。山路清晰，戴上頭燈趕路。約40分鐘，到達(dá)2900營地。這時天還沒亮，頭燈下觀察了一下營地，很寬闊，水源也好。同時，看到了驢友減負(fù)留下的小米一袋。還有很多一次性雨衣。還有讓人不堪入目的垃圾！2900營地往上，行走在草甸之中，因前幾日大雨，草甸泥濘不堪，小路上都成了水道了，只好在比較硬的地方來回蹦。直到將近六點(diǎn)，天邊微露晨光，這種泥濘難行的路才算結(jié)束。約5;50,走到了山脊上，看見了天邊露出了朝霞。6：00.天漸漸亮了，路邊的樹木也看到清晰了。([]
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