娘子合歡
陳志峰 45009萬字 28968人讀過 連載
本人是火車迷，最喜歡西南的純美自然風(fēng)光。作品在鐵路論壇類論壇發(fā)了不少，經(jīng)一位老朋友介紹來到這里。希望大家都喜歡本人的作品其實(shí)美麗的風(fēng)景并不一定只在各種旅游攻略書籍中，只要自己用心去尋找，西南處處有美景坐著西南的綠皮火車，慢慢的欣賞自然風(fēng)光就是個(gè)不錯(cuò)的選擇?！ ?由于西南特殊地形的限制，這里的鐵路線大多建于本世紀(jì)五、六十年代，線路蜿延前行，無數(shù)鐵道兵戰(zhàn)士為了修建祖國的鋼鐵大動(dòng)脈，將自己的青春獻(xiàn)給了這里，甚至付出了寶貴的生命。 雖然西南鐵路路網(wǎng)稠密，但由于受到地理環(huán)境條件的限制。除新修的渝懷、新黔桂線之外，基本上都修建于本世紀(jì)五、六十年代。受資金、技術(shù)、設(shè)備所限?；旧隙际菃尉€鐵路。經(jīng)常需要穿越山脈、河流。只能依山蜿蜒前行。這種獨(dú)特的景觀是平原地區(qū)的線路所不具備的?！ ? 西南地區(qū)大致包括四川、重慶、貴州、云南、湘西等地。其中鐵路風(fēng)光最美麗的是成昆、（成都--昆明）川黔（重慶--貴陽）、內(nèi)六（內(nèi)江--六盤水） 渝懷（重慶北--懷化）、南昆（南寧--昆明）、貴昆、湘黔（株洲--貴陽）、水柏（六盤水--柏果）、焦柳線南段等線路。 此次出行線路： D1、鄭州----昆明（南航航班） D2、昆明----石林（7452次列車硬座，游覽石林車站周邊） 石林----威舍（普通慢車硬座） D3、威舍----六盤水（6001次列車硬座） D4、六盤水----懷化（K110次列車硬座） D5、懷化----漾頭（7272次列車硬座） 暴走漾頭--九龍洞緩開站區(qū)間10公里，攔車去銅仁 銅仁----懷化（7271次列車硬座） D6、懷化----鄭州（K268次列車硬座） D7、鄭州----貴陽（1645次列車硬臥） D8、貴陽----重慶（綠皮列車硬臥） D9、重慶----白馬（長途客車） 白馬----涪陵----重慶（長途客車） 重慶----鄭州（南航CZ3480航班）回復(fù) 傷心的賓賓 的帖子早早訂下到昆明的1.8折特價(jià)機(jī)票 09年4月初的1天，出發(fā)前往新鄭國際機(jī)場(chǎng)……駛上機(jī)場(chǎng)高速，旁邊是京港澳高速河南的高速公路非常發(fā)達(dá)，通車?yán)锍倘珖谝秽?州新鄭國際機(jī)場(chǎng)……地處中原腹地省會(huì)鄭州，位于我國最繁忙的京廣航路的中部，又在沿海地區(qū)和西部地區(qū)結(jié)合部分，因此是我國重要的干線機(jī)場(chǎng)及空中交通樞紐。它位于鄭州市東南方向，距鄭州市區(qū)直線距離15公里，距新鄭市區(qū)直線距離15公里。 于1997年8月28日通航的鄭州新鄭機(jī)場(chǎng)是按照國際化準(zhǔn)設(shè)計(jì)的，場(chǎng)道布局合理，設(shè)施功能完善，機(jī)場(chǎng)飛行區(qū)等級(jí)為4E級(jí)，機(jī)場(chǎng)占地面積為25平方公里，跑道長3800米，寬65米，可滿足目前世界上最大的b747---400型客機(jī)起降。停機(jī)坪面積87萬平方米，可同時(shí)停放18架大型飛機(jī)。航行管制系統(tǒng)配備有全固態(tài)一/二次雷達(dá)，跑道雙向儀表著陸系統(tǒng)，雙向進(jìn)近燈光系統(tǒng)，全向信臺(tái)地空數(shù)據(jù)鏈及vhf四/八信道無線共用系統(tǒng)先進(jìn)裝備，保證飛機(jī)的正常飛行及夜航和盲降的要求遠(yuǎn)處還有焦作、晉城的大巴 鄭州新鄭機(jī)場(chǎng)相繼開通了省內(nèi)各省轄市，還有山西晉城的班車。頭一次在新鄭機(jī)場(chǎng)新航站樓乘機(jī)，挺新鮮我的航班CZ3439，14：50起飛BS此人，用自己扮演的偉人形象為產(chǎn)品代言中國南方航空公司的波音737--300小型客機(jī)， 它將搭載我飛進(jìn)美麗的大西南 到昆明的航線一直是熱門線路。今天的上座率達(dá)到了98%藍(lán)天，白云朵朵……餐食不錯(cuò) 牛肉、魚肉飯二選一，小面包、涪陵榨菜、圣水果、 還有餐巾紙、濕巾、牙?！ 槁每拖氲暮?周到經(jīng)過2小時(shí)18分鐘的飛行，準(zhǔn)備降落……昆明當(dāng)天下雨，下車后坐上52路前往市區(qū)。 途中停車“雙橋村”，顯然是都市村莊?！ ∵@里肯定有物美價(jià)廉的旅館，在此下車這里小旅館，招待所很多。價(jià)格從10--50元不等 35元的小準(zhǔn)間，還不錯(cuò) 還提供一次性洗漱用品條件還不錯(cuò)，35元挺值曬一下自己所帶的物品 自認(rèn)為該帶的都帶了，沒想到一件非常重要的物品卻忘到了家中…… 給我的行程帶來了無盡的遺憾！當(dāng)天晚上先去昆明站買票，這里離火車站不遠(yuǎn) 當(dāng)時(shí)下雨，昆明站售票廳內(nèi)買票的旅客很多，但只開了4個(gè)窗口 沒有警察維持秩序，看得出其中有幾個(gè)小偷 排隊(duì)20分鐘后買到次日的7452車票 昆明--紅果次日早早起床，準(zhǔn)備乘公交開往昆明站?！ ? 這里位于春城路，位于昆明巫家壩國際機(jī)場(chǎng)和火車站的正中間?！ 〗煌ㄟ€是非常方便的31路公交車到了終點(diǎn)站……昆明站 卻還要走500多米昆明站的建筑還是非常漂亮的昆明站，或者稱南窯火車站 址在云南省昆明市官渡區(qū)官渡鎮(zhèn)，北京路的南端.同時(shí)也是昆明市區(qū)的南部，可乘2、3、23、83、等公交車到達(dá)。郵政編碼650200。建于1997年。離南寧站811公里，，隸屬昆明鐵路局管轄?，F(xiàn)為特等站?？瓦\(yùn)：辦理旅客乘降；行李、包裹托運(yùn)。貨運(yùn)：辦理整車貨物發(fā)到；不辦理整車爆炸品及整車一級(jí)氧化劑發(fā)這個(gè)雕像似乎更應(yīng)該放在證券營業(yè)部…… 已經(jīng)登上7452次列車…… 旁邊是T61次的到達(dá)車底，還未回庫 昆明站唯一跨局特快……車票…… 如果只為了到紅果，完全可以坐8：08始發(fā)的6062次。此車途經(jīng)貴昆，盤西線到達(dá)紅果。全程261KM 而我所坐的7452將走南昆，經(jīng)威舍上威紅線到達(dá)紅果。全程376KM 至于原因……只為了運(yùn)轉(zhuǎn)美麗的石林告別昆明站…… 開始自己的第一段旅程此時(shí)與貴昆線平行，一會(huì)兒才能駛上南昆線([]
最新章節(jié)： 第521章 特朗普豪賭引震動(dòng)中國機(jī)長 （ 2024-12-15 11:21:18）
更新時(shí)間： 2024-12-15 05:03:50
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- 第10章 攀登者
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- 第16章 千與千尋
- 第17章 大力神杯
- 第18章 英超直播
- 第19章 陳情令
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袁裕治※ 墨脫 ※ 普通人很少知道，圈子內(nèi)很有名，中國最后一個(gè)不通車的縣城。進(jìn)入墨脫必須要翻越喜馬拉雅山脈東南段的多雄拉雪山或嘎隆拉雪山，兩座雪山終年積雪，冬季11月-6月更是深達(dá)數(shù)米難以逾越。中間還要穿越亞熱帶原始雨林、螞蟥山、老虎嘴天險(xiǎn)，克服高原反應(yīng)、惡劣天氣、艱險(xiǎn)環(huán)境重重考驗(yàn)。正是這樣一個(gè)充滿神秘的地方，吸引了無數(shù)戶外愛好者來挑戰(zhàn)，徒步墨脫就成了中國十大經(jīng)典徒步路線之首，絕對(duì)是對(duì)體力、意志的一種挑戰(zhàn)。 ※ 行走墨脫，與生命交換了一次意見 ※ 這只是同行的一位大哥的感言而已！無需豪言壯語，我們只是跟隨著前人的腳步，走了過來。之前看過不少攻略，也算是有備而來吧，也知道其不同季節(jié)不同天氣有不同的困難。就便是登泰山也是如此，更何況是墨脫呢。今年雨季來得特別早，當(dāng)?shù)厝苏f今年從2月就開始下雨，幾乎一直沒間斷，對(duì)我們而言算是不幸呢還是幸運(yùn)？塌方、泥石流可不是兒戲，這次有一名隊(duì)員就是在塌方處被滾石砸中胳膊，好在不是很嚴(yán)重，而另一名隊(duì)員的登山杖被泥石流帶著去了印度。還有一條登山杖永遠(yuǎn)留在了嘎隆拉雪山上?！ ?四海旅社曾眼鏡※ 隱藏在云霧中的墨脫縣城 ※ 一朵盛開的蓮花，無數(shù)人帶著自己的夢(mèng)想追隨到這里！ ※ 行程 ※ 幾乎跟大多數(shù)人一樣，先到拉薩，然后次日乘坐班車到八一，然后包車到派鎮(zhèn)?！ ?在拉薩住在了喜力家 -- 暮野驢社，見到不少8264的朋友倍親切?！ 。模薄±?薩 -- 八一鎮(zhèn) -- 派鎮(zhèn) 拉薩東郊客運(yùn)站10點(diǎn)前隨時(shí)有去八一的班車，票價(jià)100元、120元、140元、170元不等，我們坐的100元的大巴，中間在松多吃午餐?！ ? 下午5點(diǎn)多到達(dá)八一，接著在八一聯(lián)系去派鎮(zhèn)的班車，每人50元（人少不去，司機(jī)電話：13618940136），當(dāng)晚8點(diǎn)多到達(dá)派鎮(zhèn)?！ ? 派鎮(zhèn)門票150元（有兩種方法可逃票），我們住的是雅谷飯店，間每人25元?！ 。模病∨涉?zhèn) -- 松林口 -- 多雄拉 -- 拉格 早上從派鎮(zhèn)到松林口，可以讓住宿的店老板幫著聯(lián)系乘大卡車進(jìn)山，很方便，每人30元，大約40分鐘的路程?！ ? 徒步從松林口出發(fā)，翻越4221米的多雄拉山口，夏季可以不用請(qǐng)向?qū)?，下雪時(shí)還是很有必要?！ ◇w力好基本3小時(shí)內(nèi)到山頂，再3小時(shí)能到拉格。我們7點(diǎn)20派鎮(zhèn)出發(fā)，8點(diǎn)多到松林口開始徒步上山，10點(diǎn)30到山頂，下午1點(diǎn)30到拉格?！ ∪?果體力好，當(dāng)天可以趕到漢密，門巴人就是當(dāng)天去了漢密，哈哈?。?當(dāng)然我們不能光走路，還要拍照的嘛！ 拉格住綿陽吉祥客棧，所謂的客棧就是簡易木板房(進(jìn)墨脫的人多了，有人在半路建立了幾間木板房)，70元/天，含晚餐和次日早餐。老板是綿陽人，老板娘是門巴人?！ 。模? 拉格 -- 大崖洞 -- 漢密 這段路相對(duì)最好走，沒有岔路，原始森林里僅有的一條“水泥路”。最后到漢密時(shí)出現(xiàn)少量螞蟥。一路原始森林，是俺迄今見過最原始的亞熱帶原始森林了?！? 一般中午在大崖洞吃飯，早上9點(diǎn)出發(fā)，下午4點(diǎn)30到達(dá)?！ h密住四海旅社曾眼鏡那，也是70元/天，含晚餐和次日早餐，曾眼鏡一個(gè)人在原始森林里呆了近10年，他自己就是一個(gè)傳奇。 ?。模础?漢密 -- 阿尼橋 -- 二號(hào)橋 -- 三號(hào)橋 -- 解放大橋 -- 背崩 這段路是最危險(xiǎn)，以前進(jìn)墨脫失蹤的人幾乎都是在這段路出事，門巴人也傳說中間有些靈異現(xiàn)象，要注意隊(duì)員間一定不要拉開距離?！ ?個(gè)人認(rèn)為主要中間有幾條岔路，走錯(cuò)了就是最大的麻煩?！ ∑?中一條岔路過阿尼橋20分鐘后右側(cè)河上有一座無名橋，不能走。過本橋大約10多分鐘到達(dá)二號(hào)橋。 另一條岔路過2號(hào)橋20米，左側(cè)向上去易工白，右側(cè)向下去背崩。雖也有人經(jīng)易工白、德興到達(dá)過墨脫，但這段路難度要大很多?！ ?第三個(gè)岔路就是快到3號(hào)橋的時(shí)候，走下到河底的路線到橋上。還要注意三號(hào)橋到解放大橋中間的塌方要小心通過?！ ”潮雷?宿也是70元/天，價(jià)格好像他們幾個(gè)店家都協(xié)商好了的?！ 。模怠”潮? -- 亞讓村 -- 墨脫縣 這段路可以稱高速公路了，可以通越野車。背崩屬于和印度的邊防線，這里有駐軍。中間到亞讓村之前拔高不大，從德興大橋那里才開始拔高，估計(jì)半個(gè)小時(shí)到一個(gè)小時(shí)就上去。 上去就看到墨脫縣城了，遠(yuǎn)看墨脫縣城就是一朵隱藏在云霧中的蓮花（建議次日早上再到這個(gè)位置拍一張）。 我們住在了著名的蓮花大酒店，準(zhǔn)間50元/人，條件不錯(cuò)。傳說中的林業(yè)局招待所和政府招待所都滿客！ 當(dāng)晚在蓮花大酒店邊上找了一家做石鍋雞的店，名字叫天上人間，哈哈！天上人間到處都有哈。 ?。模丁⌒?整 本來今天計(jì)劃去仁欽崩寺-苯教的發(fā)源地，因?yàn)槁吠具b遠(yuǎn)加路途險(xiǎn)惡未果?！? Ｄ７ 墨脫 -- 馬迪新村 -- 米日村 -- 113K -- 108K -- 100K -- 96K 從墨脫到80K的道路全部被大雨沖塌，必須徒步到80K，一般需要2天時(shí)間，先到108K、然后到80K再乘車到52K?！? 經(jīng)過一天的休整體力不錯(cuò)，中午到了113K，就把第一天的計(jì)劃調(diào)到100K，到100K后感覺時(shí)間還早，就又趕到了96K?！ ?6K吃住條件稍差，我們就無所謂了。第一家老板是甘肅人，老板娘是藏族，自己都沒得吃。最后住給了他10元，晚餐10元，早餐10元（都是面條）?！ 。模浮?6K -- 80K -- 52K 繼續(xù)出發(fā)，第一天多趕了路，這段較短相對(duì)輕松了不少。 夜里下了大雨，中間泥石流塌方嚴(yán)重，局部涉水深度達(dá)1米，也是最危險(xiǎn)的路段，就是這段路上犧牲了一條登山杖?！ ?從80K乘坐越野車直接到52K，每人200元，乘坐卡車每人100元，因?yàn)?天氣原因，那天簡易路卡車都不能通行了?！? 住宿52K每人45元含兩餐?！ ?Ｄ９ 52K -- 嘎隆拉 -- 24K -- 波密 -- 八一鎮(zhèn) 嘎隆拉隧道正在半山腰連夜施工，據(jù)說是8月份就打通了，以后出入墨脫就再不用翻嘎隆拉雪山了。 嘎隆拉從山頂直接滑下來很過癮，上山用了2個(gè)半小時(shí)，下山用了1小時(shí)，都從埡口直接滑下來。滑出的雪槽已經(jīng)有2-3米深了。哈哈！高山滑雪！ 24K直接乘坐越野車返回波密縣，每人50元。到波密后立即乘坐班車返回八一，越野車每人150元，瑞風(fēng)商務(wù)車有130元的。 晚上八一FB。 ?。?１０ 八一鎮(zhèn) -- 拉薩 還是乘坐大巴班車返回拉薩，每人100元?；氐匠霭l(fā)的地方 -- 喜力家。晚上德吉路繼續(xù)FB。裝備使用情況在本帖子第61頁有詳細(xì)回答！ 全程無露營，全部住宿簡易木板房客棧。費(fèi)用明細(xì)供參考：23日拉薩站公交車12每人1元，大件行李1元喜力家住宿225每人25晚餐1136菜1湯24日早餐50拉薩八一大巴900每人100松多午餐1506菜1湯八一派鎮(zhèn)班車450每人50派鎮(zhèn)門票450每張150，買了3張，其他逃票派鎮(zhèn)住宿225雅谷飯店晚餐1556菜1湯25日派鎮(zhèn)早餐110面條+抄手松林口大卡車270每人3026日拉格630每人吃住70，酒另買27日漢密630每人吃住70，酒另買28日背崩630每人吃住70，酒另買墨脫石鍋雞520酒另買29日午餐1806菜1湯酒另買晚餐1706菜1湯酒另買住宿900每人50兩天10030日96K吃住275酒另買31日80K午餐18080K包車1800每人20052K吃住405每人451日24K乘車450每人50波密八一班車1240八一晚餐305酒另買2日八一拉薩班車810每人90松多午餐140拉薩晚餐284(7人) 酒另買拉薩住宿225每人25※ 一行９人在墨脫縣蓮花廣場(chǎng)合影 從左到右：兔子、沒錢不帥、林海雪原、風(fēng)蕭蕭、飛鳥、開心笑、臨淵羨魚、邊界、虎狼漫步 ※ 天路 ※ 5月21日，我們一行9人踏上了西行的列車，經(jīng)過50多個(gè)小時(shí)于23日晚到達(dá)圣城拉薩，一座天堂里的城市。平均海拔4000多米的青藏高原充滿了神奇，昆侖山、唐古拉山、念青唐古拉山，還有美麗的青海湖、可可西里、那曲草原。雪山腳下，天地之間，藏羚羊、黃羊、野驢、牦牛一路相伴。云那么白，天那么藍(lán)！雖不是第一次進(jìn)藏，可看到這高原美景就忍不住拿出相機(jī)咔嚓個(gè)不停。大腦也隨之開始興奮...※ 有一種色彩叫深藍(lán)※ 天路 ※ 從上車一直到格爾木才拿出相機(jī)，走出站臺(tái)感受一下高原的晨曦，順便和列車合影一張，哈哈※ 天路 ※ 青藏鐵路格（爾木）拉（薩）段，中間越過昆侖山、可可西里、長江源頭、唐古拉山、那曲草原、念青唐古拉山。這一段是青藏鐵路最美的一段，雪山、白云、綠草之間有黃羊、羚羊、牦牛、野驢一路相伴?！?車窗外的雪山※ 天路 ※ 可可西里，野馬？野驢？看著像驢，據(jù)說是藏野馬！哈哈※ 天路 ※ 坐在車窗前，望著車窗外的白云，列車上播放著歌頌高原的曲子...我們一路來到拉薩※ 天路 ※ 坐著火車去拉薩，對(duì)我來說只有這樣才能感覺到是真正的旅行?！√炻? ※ 天是那么的寬，地是那么的廣※ 天路 ※ 翻過了唐古拉山※ 天路 ※ 這是一條通往天堂的路※ 天路 ※ 青藏鐵路※ 天路 ※ 青藏鐵路、青藏公路交匯處※ 到達(dá)拉薩 ※ 到了拉薩當(dāng)然要去喜力家的暮野驢社看看啦，哈哈！整體感覺不錯(cuò)。從火車站乘坐89路公交車1元到人民體育場(chǎng)下車，小胡同進(jìn)30米就到了，很好找。距離大昭寺很近，不過從大昭寺到暮野方向感不是很強(qiáng)的人就可能麻煩些了?！ 」忸^大廚炒的東北菜挺適合山東人口味，嘿嘿，這是實(shí)話！※ 大昭寺廣場(chǎng)的柱子， 從喜力家樓頂能清楚看見它和布達(dá)拉宮?！〉竭_(dá)拉薩 ※ 從大昭寺去喜力家，一個(gè)比較好的方法：面向瑪吉阿米左側(cè)的路一直下去，看到清真寺右側(cè)回拐30米即可到達(dá)。很遺憾喜力家樓上沒有掛個(gè)牌子，初次過去的話可能還是不知所措！※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 派鎮(zhèn)，是公路的終點(diǎn)，也是徒步的起點(diǎn)，也是雅魯藏布江大峽谷的入口點(diǎn)。5月24日，早上從拉薩東郊客運(yùn)站乘上到八一的班車，一路沿著拉薩河逆流而上，中午翻過米拉山口。米拉山口海拔5013米，是拉薩河與尼洋河的分水嶺，不同的是拉薩河向西流，尼洋河向東流，相同的是都匯入雅魯藏布江。過米拉山口之后，景色完全變了，順美麗的尼洋河而下，兩邊森林植被明顯增多，一山四季垂直分布，景色美麗至極。到達(dá)八一鎮(zhèn)后立即包車連夜趕往派鎮(zhèn)，司機(jī)告訴我們，一黑龍江女孩10天前在去墨脫的路上失蹤，一兩天前有農(nóng)民工凍死在嘎隆拉山上（據(jù)說臨死前嘴里還叼著一顆香煙）。司機(jī)師傅囑咐我們在林芝機(jī)場(chǎng)檢查站不要說去墨脫（否則不讓進(jìn)），說是去直白看南迦巴瓦峰。晚上我們在司機(jī)的推薦下入住雅谷飯店，并為我們聯(lián)系好了去松林口的卡車?！ ∫估锵铝?很大的雨，好在次日轉(zhuǎn)晴，否則是不能上山了。5月25日，搭上聯(lián)系好的卡車，一路碎石路拔高而上，山路顛簸如坐過山車。雅魯藏布江大峽谷云霧彌漫如仙境一般，可惜沒能騰出手拍下一張照片，就這樣跟一路美景擦肩而過。一路拔高到松林口下車后又開始下起小雨，沖鋒衣、雨衣、綁腿打好上山。山下面下雨，上面下雪，而阻擋在我們面前的是海拔4221米的多雄拉雪山?！? 沒的選擇，進(jìn)墨脫就必須要越過他，從松林口出發(fā)。。?！? 318國道米拉山口上的經(jīng)幡※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 5月24日沿著318國道趕往八一鎮(zhèn)，318國道就是川藏南線，可以稱之為中國最美景觀大道。很羨慕那些川藏線上的騎行者！他們從成都到拉薩一般需要騎行２０多天，很佩服！夢(mèng)想著將來也有一天自己也能從成都騎行到拉薩一趟。 ※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 一路隨處可見飄蕩的經(jīng)幡，寄托著藏胞們美好的心愿！※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 米拉山口、尼洋河成了路上獨(dú)特的風(fēng)景，吸引了大量路客駐足留影留念?！? 尼洋河中流砥柱巨石?！? 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 尼洋河上空的藍(lán)天！※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 去八一路上看到的雪山！※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 車子進(jìn)入林芝地區(qū)后，山體植被明顯增多。不愧西藏的江南美譽(yù)。※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 班車到達(dá)八一鎮(zhèn)下午5點(diǎn)多了，正常班車已經(jīng)沒有了，站內(nèi)找車包車去派鎮(zhèn)需要600元/車，是些去米林的金杯車班車。站外找車要便宜些，500就能搞定。 其實(shí)可以直接給去派鎮(zhèn)的班車司機(jī)打電話，班車也可包車，有人隨時(shí)會(huì)走，每人50元。我們9人花了450元去派鎮(zhèn)，很順利！特意留了班車電話供參考：13618940136，司機(jī)是四川人，很不錯(cuò)！※ 八一到派鎮(zhèn)的班車，出發(fā)時(shí)下午6點(diǎn)了。※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 八一鎮(zhèn)老鷹廣場(chǎng)雕塑，經(jīng)過時(shí)隔著車窗拍了一張。※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 經(jīng)過機(jī)場(chǎng)大橋后大約30分鐘后，到達(dá)尼洋河匯入雅魯藏布江的江河匯流處，好心的司機(jī)停車讓我們拍照。由于天氣有些晚，光線也不足，就隨便記錄了一張。※ 尼洋河江河匯流處※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 到達(dá)派鎮(zhèn)時(shí)已經(jīng)黑天了，但是售門票的依然還在，去墨脫也要收150元，什么道理？快要到派鎮(zhèn)時(shí)決定留幾個(gè)在車上把包帶進(jìn)大門，幾個(gè)喜歡探索的決定順河邊進(jìn)去（不推薦！）?！? 派鎮(zhèn)的早晨※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 在衛(wèi)星圖基礎(chǔ)制作了一份手繪圖，并附上了派鎮(zhèn)街區(qū)圖，僅供參考。路上只有注食宿的地點(diǎn)能住宿，其他地方都不行?！?自制的徒步路線圖※ 從拉薩到派鎮(zhèn) ※ 派鎮(zhèn)住的是雅谷飯店，售票處第一個(gè)能看的招牌就是，到據(jù)說是鎮(zhèn)上條件最好的，是司機(jī)推薦的，條件真不錯(cuò)，25元/人。網(wǎng)上不少人推薦去兄弟飯店、川渝飯店。([]
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蔡哲榮Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.為了讓楊同學(xué)的傳奇能讓全世界的驢友分享，俺決定把楊同學(xué)的帖子翻譯成英文。為了避免麻煩，俺先來個(gè)免責(zé)聲明：1。楊同學(xué)不認(rèn)識(shí)俺，也沒有授權(quán)俺，如果他說不要翻譯了那俺就隨時(shí)終止；2。俺沒有商業(yè)目的，譯版版權(quán)歸楊同學(xué)，俺啥也不要，也不承擔(dān)法律責(zé)任；3。沒有楊同學(xué)授權(quán)，不敢擅自發(fā)在國外網(wǎng)站，發(fā)在原帖處，榮譽(yù)歸8264；4。俺英語水平有限，歡迎指正，歡迎轉(zhuǎn)貼。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感謝大伙兒支持和加分，不一一回復(fù)了。特別感謝多啦，希望能有機(jī)會(huì)一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差點(diǎn)兒沒找到俺自己的帖子，原來變色了。多謝各位鼓勵(lì)。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
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林哲茹每當(dāng)回想起那些行走的時(shí)光，腦海里就會(huì)浮現(xiàn)出喜怒哀樂！每當(dāng)看到旅行結(jié)束后拍攝的照片，是否又仿佛回到那行走中的場(chǎng)景和夢(mèng)境！每當(dāng)我要用鍵盤敲寫記錄一次長線經(jīng)歷時(shí)，我真的不知道該如何去描述自己的經(jīng)歷和感受！全球首發(fā)-- 海拔6691米的未登峰比如它索峰高清大圖（轉(zhuǎn)載請(qǐng)注明出處）https//www.9ku.com/share/true_457712/singleplayer.swf為了方便查看每日更新，這里編輯匯總了每天的鏈接地址，請(qǐng)點(diǎn)擊查看：拉薩段（17樓起）林芝段--月圓之日相聚林芝，追夢(mèng)、渴望讓心相連。。。（299樓起）徒步D1--沉重的腳步，踏上追夢(mèng)之旅。。。（340樓起）戶外知識(shí)之野外生火（407樓）徒步D2--晴朗的天空，視覺的盛宴。。。（408樓起）戶外知識(shí)之藏區(qū)注意事項(xiàng)（444）徒步D3--迷失和傷痛，也決不放棄。。。（470樓起）徒步D4--生命的嘗試，是否真的值得。。。（510樓起）徒步D5--淡淡秋意，壯美的杰拉山谷。。。（551樓起）徒步D6--離別（599樓起）徒步D7--無休止的攀爬。。。（731樓起）徒步D8--令人窒息的觀景臺(tái)（782樓起）徒步D9--Chuchepo冰川（874樓起）徒步D10--大自然的毀滅（975樓起）戶外知識(shí)之常規(guī)垃圾處理(1013樓起）徒步D11-12--艱難的穿越之旅，我們不舍離別（1033樓起）。。。全文完。。。 這是一次追夢(mèng)的歷程，這也是一次只有勇敢者才能完成的探路穿越活動(dòng)！西藏阿爾卑斯B線探路，我們途中經(jīng)歷太多坎坷和危險(xiǎn)路段，大部分隊(duì)員都背負(fù)著十二天食物和裝備，負(fù)重都在20-30公斤。邁著沉重的腳步，隊(duì)員們心中都充滿著期待和探索欲望；走在艱難的道路上，你們很勇敢。雖然十幾天的經(jīng)歷，會(huì)給人在情緒和身體上帶來極大的折磨和摧殘，但最終，我們追隨夢(mèng)的腳步，完成了這次艱難而又極具富有挑戰(zhàn)的野外探路穿越！海拔6455米的比如它索峰衛(wèi)二峰 今年的長線計(jì)劃最初的想法來自于2011年的一篇山峰討論貼，念青唐古拉山東段的山脈讓我大為吸引，在去年國慶時(shí)成功組隊(duì)西藏阿爾卑斯A線探路，但因行程中有一名隊(duì)員嚴(yán)重高反，而后第四天我自愿放棄穿越隨即陪同安全下撤，遺憾中帶有希望，未完的行程也帶給我一絲的夢(mèng)想，讓我在今年有了重返那片神秘的夢(mèng)想之地！海拔6018米的未登峰 念青唐古拉山脈位于青藏高原的東南，西接岡底斯山脈，東南延伸與橫斷山脈伯舒拉嶺相接，中部略為向北凸起，地理上將西藏劃分成藏北、藏南、藏東南三大區(qū)域。念青唐古拉自西向東綿長700公里，終年白雪皚皚，念青唐古拉山脈有2905條冰川，面積5898平方公里，覆蓋了這一地區(qū)總面積的大約7%。如果加上附近1638平方公里的梅里雪山冰川，冰川的總面積將達(dá)到7536平方公里，在中國的冰川地區(qū)中排第四位，總面積相當(dāng)于歐洲阿爾卑斯地區(qū)冰川面積的1.7倍。這里有逾百座6000米以上的山峰未曾攀登過，迷人的高傲雪峰和河谷環(huán)繞著一個(gè)個(gè)風(fēng)景如畫、歷史悠久的村鎮(zhèn)，加之點(diǎn)綴其間的無數(shù)冰川、湖泊令人們想起歐洲的阿爾卑斯山區(qū)，一些國外登山家稱這里為“西藏的阿爾卑斯”。Nenang乃朗峰(6870米)被陡峭的雪壁和危險(xiǎn)的山脊所拱衛(wèi)，驚險(xiǎn)的金字塔形山峰Kajaqiao高聳入云端，令人印象非常深刻，還有很多誘人的未登峰在等待攀登者們的光臨。 12天高海拔重裝無向?qū)?，無馬匹，無背夫；這次隊(duì)伍有點(diǎn)大，出發(fā)時(shí)總共11人，七名隊(duì)友完成12天穿越，有一位隊(duì)友第三天清晨下撤，還有三人在第六天下午安全下撤(后續(xù)更新中會(huì)描述下撤原因)；全程平均海拔在4600米左右，途中翻越兩個(gè)接近5400米的埡口，行程中最低海拔3798米，最高海拔5395米，總里程約超過141公里。 追夢(mèng)的足跡，無畏的勇者，感謝一路走來的隊(duì)友，感謝你們與我共進(jìn)的心，感謝兄弟姐妹你們在旅途中的喜怒哀樂，也感謝這次夢(mèng)想活動(dòng)戈?duì)柟竞?ozark品牌的支持！這是一次讓我記憶永生的野外穿越活動(dòng)。。。團(tuán)隊(duì)介紹：這次行程遺憾的是沒有給隊(duì)友們拍靚照，下面的合照簡單介紹下隊(duì)員，根據(jù)下圖從左到右 濤聲：資深戶外愛好者，豐富的帶隊(duì)經(jīng)驗(yàn)及山野戶外經(jīng)驗(yàn)。這是第一次與他同行，體能和意志力都非常棒，善于言談。真心感謝一起走過順利完成這次穿越！ 夾子：隨行影像拍攝者，這是他第一次高海拔重裝長線，他的負(fù)重已經(jīng)超出他以往重量的幾倍了，雖然剛開始行走時(shí)非常辛苦，但能一起走過了，并且堅(jiān)持到第六天下撤，真的不容易。 執(zhí)著鳥：資深戶外愛好者，一起走過多次的好友。她的耐力和負(fù)重都比較優(yōu)越，高海拔適應(yīng)非?？欤彩侨?程完成穿越的隊(duì)員之一，這次她的負(fù)重已經(jīng)超過了22公斤！ 板凳熊：隨行媒體，高原經(jīng)驗(yàn)豐富，體能和意志力也都非常好，只是在負(fù)重方面略顯不足，性格非常隨和，一路走在前隊(duì)都是有說有笑！這次因她個(gè)人原因，也是在第六天下撤隊(duì)員之一。 小鴿子：資深戶外愛好者，連續(xù)兩年一起長線的隊(duì)友！MM雖然很瘦小，但她的高原適應(yīng)能力非常強(qiáng)，負(fù)重、體能和意志力都很好，也是全程穿越完成隊(duì)員之一。在途中偶爾會(huì)有些埋怨和泄氣，但我從內(nèi)心真心理解和體諒，12天穿越對(duì)于她太不容易了！最后幾天看著小鴿子走的真是辛苦，能一起堅(jiān)持到最后我們都是勝利的！ 輝仔：資深戶外愛好者，有著豐富的長線和高海拔經(jīng)驗(yàn)，體能和意志力都非常棒，這次全程都基本在前隊(duì)，全程完成穿越隊(duì)員之一！雖然一路上有些調(diào)皮和個(gè)性凸顯，但還是很好相處的，也是個(gè)難得的開心果。 帳篷：資深戶外愛好者，前鋒隊(duì)員，一路都是在前隊(duì)，豐富的高原和長線經(jīng)驗(yàn)，體能和耐力都非常棒。雖然他不太善于言談，但也是全程完成穿越的隊(duì)員之一，這次出行他的嘴唇可真是苦惱了他！ 寒江：資深戶外愛好者，連續(xù)兩年一起長線的隊(duì)友，負(fù)重和高原適應(yīng)能力都不錯(cuò)！喜歡攝影，這次為了減重他既然單反都沒有帶，只是攜帶了卡片機(jī)，這是我意想不到的！但意想不到的是他在第六天因為個(gè)人原因必須要下撤，大家也都能理解，可真心能希望他一起走完全程，這也是這次出行的遺憾！ 星星點(diǎn)燈：資深戶外愛好者，一起走過多次的好友。豐富的山野戶外經(jīng)驗(yàn)，背負(fù)能力和意志力都非常棒，精通廚藝，途中營地晚餐他的煎餅可是絕活??！也是全程完成穿越隊(duì)員之一。 孫磊：隨行媒體，單車和徒步愛好者，這次出行他好像是第一次背負(fù)20公斤以上，行走在高海拔地區(qū)，高原適應(yīng)緩慢，第二天下午就感覺他走的很辛苦，晚上只好勸說他第三天清晨沿著來路盡快下撤。也是第一次與他同行，了解甚少！ 中國龍：本人，發(fā)帖者，召集著，相機(jī)后面的人！喜歡重裝阿式自助野外穿越，喜歡和有共同愛好的山友一起行走在大自然中，探索和欣賞未知的世界！補(bǔ)發(fā)一張在林芝賓館門前出發(fā)時(shí)拍的11人全家福 傳奇的“喀斯特洞穴” 布如溝風(fēng)光 行走在尼屋藏布山谷的原始森林中 一年一次的長線計(jì)劃，已經(jīng)成為平時(shí)生活中的精神支柱，沒有太多的追求和目的，只是為了這份興趣，和有共同愛好的山友一起行走在美妙的大自然中，感受大自然擁有的神奇和魅力！??！ 線路簡介：西藏的阿爾卑斯B線，是本人原創(chuàng)精心策劃和設(shè)計(jì)的線路！位于念青唐古拉山東段，地處林芝的西北方向，那曲嘉黎縣東南方向，距離林芝和嘉黎縣都是一百多公里，雖然距離不遠(yuǎn)，從林芝方向到達(dá)徒步起點(diǎn)，包車還是比較方便，但如果從嘉黎縣包車到達(dá)徒步終點(diǎn)的位置就相對(duì)危險(xiǎn)很多，沿途峽谷、急流，山路崎嶇，基本都是碎石路面，時(shí)而會(huì)有落石和滑坡現(xiàn)象，夜間和雨季更不要冒然行進(jìn)。公路路況不好，交通不便且非常危險(xiǎn)！這次的徒步起點(diǎn)為娘蒲鄉(xiāng)，終點(diǎn)為忠于鄉(xiāng)。南北氣候差異較大，途中遇到冰雹，雨雪，冰川，河流，亂石坡，碎石坡，森林，沼澤，草甸，沙石路，河灘，斷崖等等路況及天氣。整條線路對(duì)于高海拔適應(yīng)還是比較合理的，但危險(xiǎn)性相對(duì)較高，有好幾處危險(xiǎn)路段，而且有幾處容易迷路！線路攻略：至此這條線路游記公布后，不少朋友咨詢，在此還是簡單寫寫關(guān)于線路的一些重要節(jié)點(diǎn)和危險(xiǎn)路段，及線路行進(jìn)的相關(guān)事項(xiàng)和建議：整條線路可以劃分為兩部分，既從娘蒲鄉(xiāng)到崩嘎村可以劃分為第一部分，崩嘎村到忠于鄉(xiāng)為第二部分，這里重點(diǎn)說說第一部分：第一部分線路安排：行程：娘蒲鄉(xiāng)（3798）--扎拉1號(hào)埡口（5395）--杰拉山谷（4190）--崩嘎村（3800）,行程為重裝五天，注意事項(xiàng)：從娘蒲鄉(xiāng)出發(fā)頭兩天雖然有大路行進(jìn)，但還是建議全程徒步行走，布如溝的風(fēng)光非常美，也為翻越后面5400米左右的扎拉1號(hào)埡口做海拔適應(yīng)。隊(duì)伍行進(jìn)在第二天以后盡量不要落單，注意預(yù)防大型野生動(dòng)物（如狗熊，黑熊等等），行進(jìn)至第三天樹林時(shí)，這里容易迷路，盡量在有經(jīng)幡的附近尋找小路行走。扎拉1號(hào)埡口是根據(jù)多個(gè)地圖數(shù)據(jù)得知的另外一個(gè)扎拉埡口而命名的，也是原本計(jì)劃翻越的未知埡口，整片狹小的山谷區(qū)域都可以叫做扎拉。翻越埡口的路況艱難，陡峭，地形相對(duì)復(fù)雜，大片的亂石坡和冰川遺留，行進(jìn)中要切記量力而行，控制隊(duì)伍的行進(jìn)范圍。扎拉1號(hào)埡口至杰拉山谷路段基本都能找到小路行走，但途中也會(huì)有部分過頭頂?shù)墓嗄?林，遇到時(shí)盡量隊(duì)伍保持緊湊，避免迷路造成不必要的麻煩。杰拉山谷至崩嘎村有明顯的藏民小道。線路延展：到達(dá)崩嘎村后可以安排兩天時(shí)間前往瓊波戈措觀景臺(tái)營地，往返線路觀看雪山和冰川景觀，切記，山路陡峭，攀升較大，山坡后半段路跡不明顯，有迷失方向的可能，下山要注意保護(hù)，防止滑落。由于第二部分的線路未知性太多，翻越羅瓊拉埡口也是相對(duì)危險(xiǎn)性較大，前后的冰川和山體的風(fēng)化不確定因素較多，從綜合考慮，不建議前往行走。而后面的尼屋藏布山谷由于13年7月堰塞湖的災(zāi)難，導(dǎo)致當(dāng)?shù)?地形和道路變化極大，出行非常不方便，要是今年的雨季和雪季后，還不知道道路和地形會(huì)有什么樣變化，不可抗拒因素太多，所以非常不建議這幾年再次前往，再者忠于鄉(xiāng)當(dāng)?shù)卣呀?jīng)不讓游客進(jìn)入，所以想要反向行進(jìn)的朋友也最好打消這樣的念頭，安全第一，尼屋藏布那邊的道路地形復(fù)雜，幾年內(nèi)還是很難恢復(fù)的！在此忠告山友們，望能理解！此攻略為本人提示和建議，途中所遇到任何危險(xiǎn)和突發(fā)事件均已本人無關(guān)，請(qǐng)客觀的評(píng)估您行進(jìn)的隊(duì)伍，做好風(fēng)險(xiǎn)預(yù)案！ 第三天快到營地時(shí)，經(jīng)過一片很好的草甸，回望隊(duì)友們行走的一瞬間。。。 這次長線本人所有裝備負(fù)重清單：服裝類：ActionFox帽子 50GTX魔術(shù)頭巾 25太陽眼鏡 50奧索卡沖鋒衣 560速干衣 200奧索卡羽絨服670抓絨手套 55內(nèi)褲3條115抓絨褲 350奧索卡GTX沖鋒褲425雪套1雙120襪子四雙 200服裝類共計(jì)：2820 露營工具類：GG B80背包加防雨罩：3100帳篷 2550900克白鵝絨，700蓬松度睡袋 1550防潮充氣墊 350火鳳爐頭加盒子 200大個(gè)套鍋加收縮袋 170保溫杯 550筷子加勺子 40熟料大碗加克重杯 110手電加繩子（小手電）：2518節(jié)五號(hào)電池 450水果刀35毛巾 15牙刷牙膏 100打火機(jī) 40防水袋 100四個(gè)高山氣罐 1480露營工具類共計(jì)：10865 行進(jìn)工具類：GPS（不包電池） 150對(duì)講機(jī)加天線加一塊電池 240對(duì)講機(jī)兩塊電池 180120編帶 75冰爪770行進(jìn)工具類共計(jì)：1415 電器和電源類：單反套機(jī)（18-135鏡頭，相機(jī)電池，內(nèi)存卡） 1100廣角鏡頭 480三塊單反電池 150四個(gè)內(nèi)存卡加讀卡器 20移動(dòng)電源加布套加充電頭和線 210單反相機(jī)電池充電器150手機(jī)加兩塊電池225電器和電源類共計(jì)：2335 其他必備物品：身份證、銀行卡、相片、現(xiàn)金**、嘉黎縣暫住證 50垃圾袋、相機(jī)吹氣筒、相機(jī)布 100行程單、保險(xiǎn)單相關(guān)信息、行程冰川路段相片 50大地圖一張 550防曬霜 100其他必備物品共計(jì)：850 香蔥加香菜干 150榨菜6X50 300紫菜2包 40鹽，雞精，黑胡椒 350醬油和油 550調(diào)料配菜類總計(jì)：1390 早餐大米加玉米粒50x12 600路餐150x12 1800晚餐250x12 3000+多出的1500克小包裝奶茶六包22X6132 食品正餐總計(jì)：7032 三腳架加快門線：1075 全部裝備及物品總計(jì)：27782克紅色部分為必須穿戴物品，所列的重量沒有包括鞋子！其中這次十二天穿越，食品到最后穿越完成時(shí)早晚餐還有余量，路程是剛好合適！早餐的余下是因為途中有好幾天是跟隊(duì)友一起吃，自己的這份食物就沒有用到，加上早餐大米做粥配榨菜，吃到后面真不想吃了。這次嘗試了隊(duì)友小鴿子的鵝腸粉特別好吃，口味比較適合我，又輕便，而易熟，缺點(diǎn)是易碎！下次的長線早餐還需改良！路餐，算是最滿意的一次，在北京買的小包裝芝麻餅和板栗，口味非常好，這兩樣食物都是50克一小袋，非常方便，每份準(zhǔn)備了12袋。馬來西亞巧克力，也是50克一小袋，缺點(diǎn)是吃到最后有點(diǎn)膩了，以后長線只會(huì)考慮帶芝麻餅和板栗了！晚餐，手工面疙瘩湯配紫菜和蔥花香菜，加上湯汁非常美味，制作方法完全是我家鄉(xiāng)的做法！每餐250克面粉左右，有時(shí)候早餐還會(huì)想吃就再做點(diǎn)！面粉真是很方便，可以做煎餅，手工蔥花餅，疙瘩湯等等。這些工藝和食材都是很容易在野外實(shí)現(xiàn)的！在林芝賓館拍攝的部分裝備 西藏是很多人的夢(mèng)想之地，拉薩是西藏的省會(huì)，今年是第二次到西藏了！給人的印象還是那么好，空氣新鮮，天空晴朗。。。 離出行很近了，這次出行約定的集合地是在林芝，考慮到有時(shí)間能提前到西藏，所以這次我和隊(duì)友執(zhí)著鳥先行到達(dá)拉薩，會(huì)合隊(duì)友濤聲再一起前往林芝集合！九月15日和隊(duì)友執(zhí)著鳥乘飛機(jī)抵達(dá)拉薩，激動(dòng)的心情依然是那樣的熟悉。這一次是執(zhí)著鳥第一次來西藏，也是第一次看見藏區(qū)的風(fēng)光，我對(duì)她說在西藏這樣的風(fēng)景和天氣真是太多了，可她依然控制不住端著相機(jī)咔嚓咔嚓不停的照。。。匆匆忙忙已過中午時(shí)分，安頓好住宿后，就和隊(duì)友到處閑逛，等待晚上另一名隊(duì)友濤聲的到來！隊(duì)友執(zhí)著鳥 9月16日濤聲，我，還有執(zhí)著鳥，我們?nèi)?duì)員在拉薩閑逛隨拍。。。 順時(shí)針圍繞著布達(dá)拉宮行走，這里似乎一直都很多人，沿途都有轉(zhuǎn)經(jīng)筒。。。 布達(dá)拉宮后面的小公園風(fēng)景還是非常好的、、、 這不知道是鴨子還是鴿子，能飛能游。。。是不是黃嘴鷗？還是紅嘴鷗。。。 藍(lán)天白云與公園的景觀完美結(jié)合。。。 公園里已經(jīng)有秋意的感覺。。。 月圓之日相聚林芝，追夢(mèng)、渴望讓心相連。。。 林芝地處西藏東南部，地區(qū)政府駐林芝縣八一鎮(zhèn)。雅魯藏布江中下游，其西部和西南部分別與拉薩、山南兩地市相連，東部和北部分別與昌都地區(qū)、那曲地區(qū)相連，南部與印度、緬甸兩國接壤。林芝平均海拔3100米，總面積116175平方公里，總?cè)丝?4萬人。被稱為西藏的江南，以世界上最深的峽谷——雅魯藏布江大峽谷著稱于世。林芝的森林原始景觀保存完好，高原挺拔的西藏古柏、喜瑪拉雅冷杉、植物活化石“樹蕨”以及百余種杜鵑等等應(yīng)有盡有，素有“天然的自然博物館”、“自然的綠色基因庫”之稱。 九月18日我們一行三人從拉薩前往林芝，激動(dòng)的心情克制不住我們對(duì)追夢(mèng)之路的期待，臨近了，是否還在想起那些盼望很久的目的地和沿途的風(fēng)景！這是我第一次前往林芝，之前在地圖上研究過多次，可沒想到時(shí)間如流水般，讓我與林芝近距離相處！大概下午五點(diǎn)左右，到達(dá)林芝提前安排的住處，與在此守候多日的隊(duì)員輝仔回合。。。輝仔來自廣東，早前在北京一起走過山，風(fēng)趣，幽默，加上些少許調(diào)皮，有時(shí)候也很個(gè)性啊，但還是個(gè)好隊(duì)友。他在林芝地區(qū)差不多住了一個(gè)月，每天都盼望著我們的到來！這可不，相見如歸，滿臉的胡須已經(jīng)完全使他變了一個(gè)樣，讓我們個(gè)個(gè)都大吃一驚！又驚又喜，三兩隊(duì)員就這樣聊上了。今天我們已經(jīng)四名隊(duì)員，明天19日是我們的集合日期，其余隊(duì)友都會(huì)陸續(xù)到達(dá)。晚上，四人相聚暢聊，一起吃了一頓美味砂鍋蹄子。。。19日下午11名隊(duì)員都已陸續(xù)抵達(dá)會(huì)和。相聚不如說是團(tuán)聚和巧遇，這天剛好是中秋節(jié)，明天也是我們出行的日子，怎么也得吃頓好的，也算是行前大餐，讓大家開心點(diǎn)，進(jìn)山后可沒有這么好的條件了！這樣一拍即合，吃石鍋雞，買月餅。。。哎，還是那句話，這次遺憾的沒有給隊(duì)員們拍靚照。。。我和輝仔（右）在路上的合照（小鴿子拍攝） 濤聲，徒步第一天拍攝19日先行到的隊(duì)員們?cè)?林芝街區(qū)閑逛。前排夾子（左）和孫磊18日我前往魯朗會(huì)友，路上經(jīng)過埡口時(shí)拍攝。。。19日下午天空突變，閃電雷鳴，雨后出現(xiàn)很大很寬的雙道彩虹。。。
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林明菱浮梁八卦形古城坐落保存最完整的清代五品古縣衙，曾經(jīng)繁華夢(mèng)，萬國求瓷茶.本帖精華及主要圖片放在帖子后面，請(qǐng)讀貼的朋友關(guān)注！一塊飽經(jīng)歲月留存下來的磚頭也往往比拆掉重建的城郭更讓人感動(dòng)，體制是文化的軀殼，游覽過后照亮的確是現(xiàn)在-------------輕松，浮梁縣舊縣城，自唐代以來，一直是浮梁縣治所在。浮梁自古以來一直是“望縣”，其縣署品級(jí)為五品，高出一般縣署 2級(jí)（一般縣為七品）。較高的政治地位是因?yàn)槠?重要的經(jīng)濟(jì)地位，原由便是當(dāng)地燦爛的陶瓷文化和茶文化。（中國古代的三大國際貿(mào)易為：瓷器、茶葉和絲綢。） 景區(qū)以五品古縣衙和千年紅塔為核心，濃縮了千年古縣悠久的人文歷史和燦爛的茶瓷文化，被譽(yù)為“江南第一衙”。輕松，謝謝同行的小妖拍的到此一游的留影照片，代表一行5人也謝謝好友明月提供的車輛。 城門樓高 15.6米，由城墻、主樓和角樓組成。主樓座落在8米高的城墻之上下筑券門洞 ，洞頂甚高，底闊 3米多。中部為主樓。門樓面闊5間，進(jìn)深3米，重檐三滴水，歇山頂； 據(jù)稱是唐代留下的古獅雕刻，形態(tài)動(dòng)態(tài)雄壯有力，動(dòng)態(tài)可掬，這算是這里最老的遺存；巍峨聳立的宋代紅塔有“江西第一塔”之稱 紅塔又名西塔，“西塔夕照”為歷史上著名的昌江八景之一。記載了浮梁一千三百多年要事珍聞和浮梁作為瓷都之源的發(fā)展歷程。 全塔共七層，從地坪至復(fù)盆頂塔高37.8米。塔身皆用大型青磚實(shí)砌，每層均用青磚疊砌出外挑平臺(tái)，不設(shè)鉤欄。 紅塔反映了北宋初期塔的建筑外貌和藝術(shù)造型的時(shí)代特征，是座具有融合中國古塔特殊風(fēng)格和江南建筑特色的佛塔。“西塔夕照”為古代昌江著名風(fēng)景之一，若春和景明或秋高氣爽，則有“文照勝朝暉，紫煙連霄漢”的壯觀。 紅塔的歷史淵源和典故； 現(xiàn)保留有頭門、儀門、衙院、大堂、二堂及三堂，基本保持了縣衙原有風(fēng)貌。整座建筑布局多路，錯(cuò)落有致，廊道相接渾然一體。 江西省景德鎮(zhèn)浮梁舊縣城始建于唐朝元和十一年（公元817年），距今有一千一百八十多年的歷史。這里已發(fā)展為以名勝古跡為特色，以歷史文化為內(nèi)涵的獨(dú)特旅游區(qū)。 浮梁古城八卦形的城廓輪廓； 古縣衙的建筑具有徽派與贛派相結(jié)合的特點(diǎn)，最具特點(diǎn)的是縣署里面的楹聯(lián)，其豐富的內(nèi)涵，涵蓋了封建社會(huì)地方官處事方法和原則； 唐代詩人白居易在《琵琶行》中有詩句曾嘆：“商人重利輕別離，前月浮梁買茶去”。根據(jù)《新唐書·食物志》記載：“浮梁每歲產(chǎn)茶七百萬馱，稅十五萬貫”（這個(gè)數(shù)字相當(dāng)于當(dāng)時(shí)朝廷茶葉稅的八分之三，為全國之首）。 浮梁古縣衙景區(qū)地處長江三角洲、珠江三角洲、閩東南“金三角”，長江中游經(jīng)濟(jì)區(qū)和京九鐵路經(jīng)濟(jì)帶結(jié)合部中心地區(qū)； 仔細(xì)觀察會(huì)發(fā)現(xiàn)，這座縣衙的規(guī)制有越級(jí)之處，浮梁原本只是一個(gè)縣，按理縣官只有七品的官階，但浮梁的縣衙確是五品的規(guī)制 古縣衙，建于清朝道光年間，距今 170年，占地64495平方米（95畝） 全木質(zhì)結(jié)構(gòu)，徽派建筑木式結(jié)構(gòu)體系； 整個(gè)設(shè)計(jì)給人的感覺是莊嚴(yán)和輕松并存，厚重與俏雅生輝，建筑藝術(shù)實(shí)為“奇妙”，同時(shí)也顯示出封建衙門特有的那種官府威嚴(yán)氣派。 體制完整，刑房，兵房，工房均具備；想想現(xiàn)在的公務(wù)員的數(shù)量，不得不讓人心生感慨； “帝制早廢，縣衙猶存”，“珍貴史跡，進(jìn)門有益” 這里的建筑院落，充分體現(xiàn)了徽派建筑的四水歸一的理念； 衙署內(nèi)陳列了古代官服、刑具、十八般兵器、訊杖、官轎、夾棍， 五品的縣令也許相當(dāng)于現(xiàn)在的副省級(jí)地市級(jí)別； 根據(jù)《新唐書·食物志》記載：“浮梁每歲產(chǎn)茶七百萬馱，稅十五萬貫”（這個(gè)數(shù)字相當(dāng)于當(dāng)時(shí)朝廷茶葉稅的八分之三，為全國之首）。 議事廳，相當(dāng)于現(xiàn)在的常委會(huì)議室；([]
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劉淑娟第一次知道貢嘎雪山，是在一家戶外用品店，當(dāng)時(shí)我想買些徒步用品，在店鋪首頁看到了店主和他朋友們?nèi)ヘ暩卵┥酵?步的照片，當(dāng)時(shí)他們是10月份去的，從圖片里看出他們的旅途非常的崩潰和自虐。。。我立刻被這富有挑戰(zhàn)性的路線迷住了，店主在帖子的最后說今年還會(huì)組織朋友冬季再去一次。。。我忍不住搭訕了好幾次，詢問能不能帶我一起去，結(jié)果在這里買東西行，只要說一起徒步貢嘎店主就消失了。。。沒關(guān)系，我自己找其他辦法，心里已經(jīng)開始長草了，我一定要盡快將草拔除。貢嘎山位于甘孜藏族自治州瀘定、康定、九龍三縣境內(nèi)，以貢嘎山為中心，由海螺溝、木格錯(cuò)、五須海、貢嘎南坡等景區(qū)組成，面積1萬平方公里。貢嘎主峰海拔7556米，有“蜀山之王”的美譽(yù)，貢嘎主峰周圍林立著145座海拔五六千米的冰峰，形成了群峰簇?fù)怼?雪山相接的宏偉景象。貢嘎是國際上享有盛名的高山探險(xiǎn)和登山圣地，但貢嘎山也是最難以征服的大尺度極高山，其登頂難度遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)大于珠穆朗瑪峰，因此登山死亡率遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超過珠峰的14％和K2峰的30％，僅次于梅里雪山和雅拉雪山。 我只是想去貢嘎群山里徒步穿越，我不會(huì)去攀登雪山的，我也沒有這個(gè)能力，我還沒有活夠呢。。。 已經(jīng)N久N久沒有看到藍(lán)天白云了，我好想好想出去呼吸新鮮空氣啊，我好想在今年挑戰(zhàn)一下自己的極限，看看自己到底有沒有這個(gè)能力。。。在網(wǎng)上查了很多貢嘎的旅游攻略，在高海拔地區(qū)徒步還是有一定的危險(xiǎn)的，而且我還不知道自己會(huì)不會(huì)有高反，可是什么也阻擋不了我，我就是要去。。。當(dāng)我把這個(gè)想法和老公說了之后，他說呼吸新鮮空氣沒必要跑這么遠(yuǎn)吧，你行不行啊，想徒步找個(gè)難度低點(diǎn)的行嗎。。。他所有的問我就回答一句：我就是想去，必須去。。。他當(dāng)時(shí)也沒有表態(tài)支持我去，我想我自己找隊(duì)伍跟著去就行，也沒必要帶著他去。。。老公這2年在大連上班，不久我就陸續(xù)收到了他買的戶外徒步裝備，除了帳篷所有的裝備都是雙份的：75升大包，拐杖，睡袋，防潮墊等等，后期還添置了一些戶外衣物。。。瞬間我就激動(dòng)感動(dòng)得不行，他用行動(dòng)證明他不僅支持我而且還要和我一起去，這么苦的旅途有你陪伴感覺太棒了。。。 一邊準(zhǔn)備著裝備，我一邊通過網(wǎng)絡(luò)找靠譜的去貢嘎雪山的商業(yè)戶外團(tuán)隊(duì)。我同時(shí)加入了好幾個(gè)有資歷的成都戶外團(tuán)隊(duì)的QQ群，潛水一陣子根據(jù)我的直覺我刪了其他的，就留下了：逍遙客戶外探險(xiǎn)QQ：782436485 QQ群361767646。。。 2013年12月中旬他們組織了川西貢嘎雪山之旅，當(dāng)時(shí)特別的猶豫要不要跟著去。。。 我也有顧慮：12月中旬的貢嘎夜里一定非常的冷，零下20多度肯定是有的，也許在徒步過程中會(huì)下暴雪，我到底會(huì)不會(huì)高反？這么冷我受得了么？在糾結(jié)中我放棄了并錯(cuò)過了他們的這次活動(dòng)。 煎熬和期待中迎來了2014年，年后我就開始在逍遙客報(bào)名參加3月8號(hào)的貢嘎雪山大小環(huán)線7天徒步穿越活動(dòng)，并提前預(yù)定了來回的機(jī)票。因?yàn)?最近2年老公在大連上班，所以他提前將重裝備（帳篷睡袋等）帶到了大連，我們約好了3月7號(hào)在成都機(jī)場(chǎng)集合。 出發(fā)的前幾天我在群里了解到之前報(bào)名貢嘎之行的人，都因?yàn)楦鞣N原因不去了，最后只剩下我們2口子。按照逍遙客的規(guī)定，報(bào)名人數(shù)低于5人會(huì)取消。我當(dāng)時(shí)心里有些失落，盼了好久的行程也許就要泡湯了，而且我為了這次徒步添置了所有的裝備，可是還沒有接到取消行程的通知，心里好忐忑啊。后來接到領(lǐng)隊(duì)少良的電話，他詢問我有沒有高海拔爬山徒步的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，有沒有高反等問，我都實(shí)話實(shí)說。。。估計(jì)他知道我們預(yù)定了雙人往返的機(jī)票，不忍心我們有損失，所以盡管只有我們2人報(bào)名，他們還是決定按照原定計(jì)劃出發(fā)。。。那一刻，我心里有說不出的感動(dòng)，同時(shí)又覺得只有我們2個(gè)人報(bào)名，他們的利潤就會(huì)低很多，甚至沒有利潤，2個(gè)領(lǐng)隊(duì)全程陪著我們，有點(diǎn)浪費(fèi)人力，心里也有些內(nèi)疚。第一次高海拔戶外徒步穿越，就我和老公，加2個(gè)領(lǐng)隊(duì)，太浪漫，太奢侈，夢(mèng)想突然就要實(shí)現(xiàn)幸福來的太突然的感覺！ 我知道這是一次重裝徒步之旅，為了腳豆的安全，我將所有的指甲全部剪得非常短。成都已經(jīng)開始暖和，我穿了一身輕便的衣服和鞋子去成都，然后將這身干凈的衣服換下寄存在成都，這樣我回天津的時(shí)候還可以穿這身干凈衣服回來。我進(jìn)山徒步的裝備如下：75升大包一個(gè)，軟殼沖鋒衣，抓絨夾克，戶外排骨羽絨服，速干長袖T恤，抓絨沖鋒褲，速干保暖褲薄款和厚款，抓絨帽，魔術(shù)頭巾，防風(fēng)鏡，口罩，帶絨的防水徒步戶外高靴一雙，羊毛襪3雙，充電寶3個(gè)，雪套，防曬霜，防風(fēng)手套一副，手杖，手電，頭燈，紙巾，單反相機(jī)一個(gè)2個(gè)鏡頭，相機(jī)三腳架。。。這些衣物大部分都穿在身上了，之前聽聞相機(jī)電池在低溫下消耗很快，所以我的索尼黨朋友們?yōu)槲姨峁┝讼?機(jī)電池，算上我的一共帶了9節(jié)相機(jī)電池。我的這些東西很快就將背包裝滿了，試了試，太重了。。?？墒?已經(jīng)不能在精簡了，進(jìn)山我連牙膏牙刷都不帶了，不洗臉不要臉了。。。至于手仗，不用的時(shí)候帶著好麻煩啊，2個(gè)人有4根手杖，我在糾結(jié)2個(gè)人是用2根？3根？4根？少良說都帶著吧。。。領(lǐng)隊(duì)少良提前和我說了，參加人數(shù)太少，不能雇馬匹和馬夫了，所有的裝備我們都要自己背著，包括4個(gè)人幾天的食物，這正是我所期待的，真正意義上的重裝徒步，我就是想出發(fā)去尋找答案，自己到底行不行，到底有沒有高反。。。 期待中出發(fā)吧！柒個(gè)小矮人 發(fā)表于 D13月7號(hào)，坐機(jī)場(chǎng)大巴來到天津機(jī)場(chǎng)，4根手杖當(dāng)時(shí)我插在包包里，露出一點(diǎn)兒安檢不讓過，讓重新單獨(dú)打包和托運(yùn)，只好在機(jī)場(chǎng)打包，就簡單的給我包了下收費(fèi)30元，真黑啊?？吹贸鰴C(jī)場(chǎng)的安檢嚴(yán)了。我?guī)?的電池太多了，安檢遇到麻煩，最后我堅(jiān)持要全部帶走，他們找了保鮮膜將我的每一個(gè)電池單獨(dú)包裝，為了避免短路引起爆炸，耽誤了我好長時(shí)間，差點(diǎn)誤機(jī)。老公從大連飛成都比我先到，匯合后我們坐機(jī)場(chǎng)大巴又倒地鐵下午4點(diǎn)左右來到了少良的逍遙客戶外工作室。在大巴上我和老公核對(duì)裝備，發(fā)現(xiàn)少帶了一個(gè)睡袋。在逍遙客受到了少良少超小白的熱情接待，看到他們本人我覺得好親切啊。這是一個(gè)3室2廳2衛(wèi)的住宅，既是他們的住處也是他們辦公的地方，正好空著一間房，他們讓我們住在這里不用去住賓館了。晚餐少超下廚做的，簡單的家常菜非常好吃，第一次見面就給我們溫暖的感覺。少超和少良是親兄弟，少超是弟弟，比哥哥稍微白一些。我缺的睡袋少良也幫我解決了，還額外的提供了2個(gè)厚些的防潮墊，說我們的太薄了。柒個(gè)小矮人 發(fā)表于 晚餐后我們?nèi)コ胁少徥?品，由于我們沒有高海拔連續(xù)徒步的經(jīng)驗(yàn)，所以食品方面全聽他們兄弟倆的，夠吃就行，帶多了背不動(dòng)：掛面一包，火鍋料一袋，葡萄干，面包，方便面，鳳爪，阿膠棗，桔子等。晚上大家重新收拾裝備，將采購的食品外包裝全部拆了，避免背著而且在山上也不環(huán)保，食品分成4份每人背一份，我發(fā)現(xiàn)老公的背包特別的重，除了帳篷睡袋衣物外他還帶了不少罐頭，還有枸杞南瓜子葡萄干大杏仁。。。少良少超的包包也很重，做飯的灶具氣罐他們也背著呢。。。至于濕紙巾他們建議別帶，我就沒帶。。?？傊?，能不帶的就不帶，能不用的就不用。。。老公和少超都帶了刮胡刀，在深山老林里還臭美??？ 打車來到成都長途客運(yùn)站，坐上了成都到康定的大巴車，票價(jià)約120元一位，8點(diǎn)出發(fā)順利的話預(yù)計(jì)下午4點(diǎn)到達(dá)。昨夜成都下雨了，窗外的滴答聲影響了我的睡眠。在大巴上卻不舍得入睡，出了城區(qū)公路兩側(cè)全是油菜花，那一片片嬌艷的黃色太美了。少良說我們來之前成都天天陰天看不到太陽，我成都的老領(lǐng)導(dǎo)也微信說因?yàn)榇?美來了，所以太陽也出來啦，哈哈，藍(lán)天白云，陽光溫暖而明媚，美好的驢行開始了。。。出了高速雅安一路的油菜花，太美了： 豐盛的晚餐：還有風(fēng)干的牦牛肉，我平常不怎么愛吃肉，知道明天開始苦日子要來了，就吃了很多，一點(diǎn)兒也不客氣。。。 我一直跟著部隊(duì)勻速前進(jìn)，在這里徒步感覺完全不同，我心氣太高，這次穿越一定要完成，風(fēng)景很美無心貪戀，一直悶頭行走看著腳下的路： 很多的路段變得難行，經(jīng)過一天的徒步大家明顯的速度慢了下來，路上我們商量著今天住宿在貢嘎寺，因?yàn)檫@個(gè)山坡上實(shí)在沒有適合扎營的平地，而且離水源太遠(yuǎn)：老商人 發(fā)表于 不好意思最近一直在山里沒有瀏覽網(wǎng)站15884069309旅行讓我愛上了那樣了無牽掛、最簡單、又最自由的、人與人的接觸。旅行讓我愛上了那樣了無牽掛、最簡單、又最自由的、人與人的接觸。只要踏出勇敢的第一步，我們就可以重新過上迷人的新生活。流浪是一段和自己獨(dú)處的時(shí)光，流浪既浪漫又艱辛，但流浪能讓我找到自己。流浪是一段和自己獨(dú)處的時(shí)光，流浪既浪漫又艱辛，但流浪能讓我找到自己。勇敢的接受全世界的邀請(qǐng)，我飄蕩，和我自己不要任何理由，一條屬于年輕人的成長之路，無數(shù)個(gè)顛覆性的旅行體驗(yàn)，只為找見自己的心靈之旅。其實(shí)，沒錢沒時(shí)間照樣可以旅行，那不算什么，如果一件事沒有成功，那么，一定是因?yàn)?你想要實(shí)現(xiàn)它的愿望還不夠強(qiáng)烈，許多人總愛為自己的懶惰找借**在逼仄的生活里，為一些芝麻小事愁眉不展，以至實(shí)現(xiàn)夢(mèng)想的計(jì)劃一再拖延，最終變成想想最算了的白日夢(mèng)。( 文章閱讀網(wǎng)：www.sanwen.net )旅行讓我愛上了那樣了無牽掛、最簡單、又最自由的、人與人的接觸。旅行讓我愛上了那樣了無牽掛、最簡單、又最自由的、人與人的接觸。只要踏出勇敢的第一步，我們就可以重新過上迷人的新生活。流浪是一段和自己獨(dú)處的時(shí)光，流浪既浪漫又艱辛，但流浪能讓我找到自己。旅行讓我愛上了那樣了無牽掛、最簡單、又最自由的、人與人的接觸。只要踏出勇敢的第一步，我們就可以重新過上迷人的新生活。流浪是一段和自己獨(dú)處的時(shí)光，流浪既浪漫又艱辛，但流浪能讓我找到自己。勇敢的接受全世界的邀請(qǐng)，我飄蕩，和我自己不要任何理由，一條屬于年輕人的成長之路，無數(shù)個(gè)顛覆性的旅行體驗(yàn)，只為找見自己的心靈之旅。其實(shí)，沒錢沒時(shí)間照樣可以旅行，那不算什么，如果一件事沒有成功，那么，一定是因?yàn)槟阆胍獙?shí)現(xiàn)它的愿望還不夠強(qiáng)烈，許多人總愛為自己的懶惰找借**在逼仄的生活里，為一些芝麻小事愁眉不展，以至實(shí)現(xiàn)夢(mèng)想的計(jì)劃一再拖延，最終變成想想最算了的白日夢(mèng)。( 文章閱讀網(wǎng)：www.sanwen.net )我想，每個(gè)人的血液里都有一條想要興風(fēng)作浪的蟲子，不夠敏感的人，或許感受不到它的存在，我卻能感受它不安分的蠕動(dòng)。有些膽怯的人，像蝸牛那樣蜷縮在自己的角落，那是因?yàn)樗?們沒有勇氣去擁抱陽光。年輕時(shí)，對(duì)生命總是患得患失，因?yàn)樽?求夢(mèng)想，才體會(huì)生命的韌性和與寬度，每個(gè)人都有自己天生要做的事，該做什么，問問自己吧。我漸漸覺得，也許世界上不會(huì)再有任何讓我感覺到陌生的角落，我越來越像野草的種子，隨風(fēng)、隨塵，隨飛鳥任何一個(gè)容我的地方落腳，然后蓬蓬勃勃，欣欣向榮，也許我的家園真的已經(jīng)筑在了腳上，所以我的心隨遇而安。如果你不想在路上，那一定要看看別人如何在路上，那種人生很稀罕的體驗(yàn)，定會(huì)觸動(dòng)你內(nèi)心某根神經(jīng)，會(huì)覺得不走一趟真枉來此生，也許，你就收拾好行囊，擇時(shí)上路了。這樣一座深夜里會(huì)閉上眼睛的城市，行走在里面，人與人之間，人與城市之間始終有距離感，仿佛無法與這座城市真正的靠近，但這種無法靠近，卻讓自己覺得清凈和安全，不知道為什么，我喜歡那種疏離的距離感。([]
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